Linda Fargo, senior vice-president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, will be filing her picks from the European shows. What did she like from Milan? Marni’s fur-trimmed dress coat, Fendi’s patchwork coats and furs, and Jil Sander’s entire collection.
This collection made me hold my breath in almost religious awe during the runway show. I could fully appreciate the quiet luxury and invention discreetly built into each piece: a curved and unusually placed dart, seemingly stitchless, never-seen-before shoulder construction, a precise and gleaming knife-pleated silver cocktail dress, the narrow sculptural cocoon cages. The collection captured the current new movement for clean, lean, unfettered sportswear.
Watch a slideshow of the Jil Sander collection.
It seems that Consuelo Castiglioni of Marni has a bottomless well of ideas. Her sensibility always appeals as a very new and modern way of dressing: soft, artistic shapes, new technical materials, unexpected fabrics, and color combinations such as dusty plum and poison green. My favorite look was a cool fur-trimmed dress coat worn with sporty mountaineering glasses and the most interesting reinvention of jewelry ever: plastic shapes caught up in fabrics and looped around the neck as if they were new, modern-day pearls.
Watch a slideshow of the Marni collection.
There was a sense of eccentric luxury and unpredictable beauty in Fendi’s bold, mixed-media clothing, coats, and handbags. The Rastafarian carryall is exactly what you need to transform an outfit or stop traffic. The patchwork coats and furs were truly exceptional, and the tiny, rust-grommeted, almost armorlike wool looks are on our must-buy list too.
Watch a slideshow of the Fendi collection.