The boys at Proenza Schouler continued to win over editors’ cold hearts. But would Vera Wang’s Roman theme fall into critical favor? And will Max Azria’s PJ-inspired looks work in the light of day?
The reigning princes of Fashion Week have done it again. Proenza Schouler’s latest collection has won raves for its combination of military trends and tribal-inspired looks. By contrasting the armory style (fitting that they showed in the Armory) with layered short silk skirts and organza dresses, says Fashion Week Daily, Jack and Lazaro achieved something a bit more polished, proving that “they’re all grown up” this season. Style.com surmises that the combo makes for a collection that’s “truer to the duo’s personal style.” Meanwhile, an infusion of cash from the Valentino Fashion Group allowed for heightened luxury, as exhibited in the standout gold-leaf belted dresses sported by Liya Kebede and Sofi Berelidze. Fashion Wire Daily called the “dresses made out of raw silk cut and dyed to resemble tiny, exotic feathers, like blackbirds or pheasants” to be “truly inspired and jaw-dropping.”
Vera Wang’s Roman-inspired collection received both raves and raised eyebrows from the critics. Style.com loved it, declaring that “this finely wrought collection deserves plenty of praise.” Togas were successfully reimagined as asymmetrical silk day dresses or a limpid jersey tunics; only the voluminous shin-length skirts “didn’t look Roman, or right.” Fashion Wire Daily also fell for the light and airy toga feel but took issue with the other end of Wang’s collection, saying the “kimono-like forms,” made the fuller looks feel “dowdy.” Cathy Horyn noted that though the collection channeled Dior’s New Look, “the palette and the many glossy fabrics looked heavy for a spring collection, even in ancient Rome.”
Max Azria’s delicate, boudoir-inspired collection drew a universal coo of “pretty” from the critics, and Style.com couldn’t fault the designers for having a pajama party based on “delicate details like spaghetti straps and pintucking.” WWD loved the color-blocked and dip-dyed sundresses, which were “fluid and elegant,” but The Daily found the satin dip-dye look to be “repetitive.” They did praise the “relaxed elegance” of the collection’s pretty dresses but thought the looks were a bit too close to that of previous Miu Miu collections. Style.com seconded the thought, hinting that the clothes “felt like a dream we’ve had before.” Nevertheless, Fashion Wire Daily sang the praises of Azria’s ability to mix textures, pointing to a cream dress with diamonds. “Instead of looking busy or overwhelmed, the dress was easy and pretty.”