From left: Rachel Comey, rag & bone, Karen Walker.Photos: firstVIEW, imaxtree.com
Throughout the week, New York’s biggest buyers will be filling us in on which runway looks they plan to snatch up for spring. Today, Jennifer Mankins, owner of Brooklyn boutique Bird, reveals her potential picks. She’s eyeing Rachel Comey’s shoes, rag & bone’s shirtdresses, and Karen Walker’s floral prints.
Rachel Comey perfectly weaves New England boarding-school prep and sixties understated sex appeal — the look might be best described as “librarian chic.” Heavy frames (from Sol Moscot) gave just enough edge to the high-waisted shorts in beautiful silks and jacquards, and the sexy, slim-cropped Capris (that are popping up everywhere!). All were paired with floaty silk-printed blouses and topped with perfectly shrunken jackets. Beautiful shades of coral, aqua, and purple punched up the black and camel basics. Plus, all the looks were finished with a knockout collection of shoes — I wanted every pair! Lace-up wedges with oxford detailing, a sexy peep-toe, and suede flats are perfect for hitting the city streets.
Watch a slideshow of the Rachel Comey collection.
Band of Outsiders:
It’s easy to see why Scott Sternberg’s collection of relaxed preppy classics has been nominated for a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award. Meticulous attention to detail abounds, whether in the pieces’ general, handmade quality, or the tuxedo detailing on a shrunken blazer paired with slim shorts. And lucky for us ladies, he finally launched a women’s collection this spring. Keeping true to his boyish menswear sensibility, the women’s line offers great pencil-stripe button-downs and patchwork-striped shirtdresses in the elegant, crisp cotton he’s known for. The cream canvas tuxedo-short suit with a black grosgrain shawl collar was a standout.
Watch a slideshow of the Band of Outsiders collection.
rag & bone:
David Neville and Marcus Wainwright launched their womenswear collection two years ago and have created a cultlike following ever since. Inspired by the late sixties and early seventies, they look to reimagine and refine American classics for today’s urban-chic woman. Cropped slim trousers, perfectly polished blazers, and safari jackets provide sexy closet staples, and are especially cool when thrown over a tiny belted black bikini. Another standout was the safari-inspired shirtdress worn with a jaunty straw fedora, and the seersucker tuxedo jacket paired with matching “Farrah” shorts.
Watch a slideshow of the rag & bone collection.
The gorgeous and whimsical collection from Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai proved why these young designers are also in the running for this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award. The collection was both glamorous and a bit unkempt. A beautiful geometric print on rose crepe silk turns out, upon closer inspection, to be tiny beer cans; handmade silver hardware on belts and necklaces added a tough edge to the lady-like dresses and blouses. Shots of chartreuse and ultra-violet purple punched up the navy and cream basics, especially when in the form of a languorous floor-length bias-cut gown or sexy silk high-waisted shorts. A flitted black leather jacket and a menswear inspired oversized sleeveless blazer rounded out the collection.
Watch a slideshow of the Vena Cava collection.
Subversive and quirky as always, Karen Walker’s spring collection was just that perfect mix of seventies fun and thirties beauty. Pretty floral prints, charming race-inspired looks (think jodhpurs and dot-print tops reminiscent of rider silks), and wide-leg jeans are perfect for warm and breezy spring days. She piled on the accessories in the form of straw hats, silk scarves, and her superb line of sunglasses, which made each model look oh-so-cool. Belted dresses, cropped pants, batik and striped linen blazers as well as printed and high-waisted shorts drew on all of spring’s emerging trends and looked effortless doing so.
Watch a slideshow of the Karen Walker collection.