From left: United Bamboo, Alexander Wang, and Rachel Comey.Photos: Imaxtree
Rag & Bone
Marcus Wainwright and David Neville presented one of their best collections to date by focusing on what they do best: sharply tailored, menswear-inspired classic silhouettes. I liked the strong, forties-inspired shoulders and sharp collars, militaristic brass-button details, skinny ties, and his-and-hers three-piece suits. My favorite looks were the black wool toggle coat with an oversize collar, and the snuggly extra-long cashmere boyfriend sweaters worn with jodhpur leggings.
View a slideshow of the Rag & Bone collection.
Improvised magic-and-parlor tricks were the theme at Rachel Comey’s Houdini-inspired fall show. Pale-faced models dressed in piles of prints and patterns made me think of a modern-day Wednesday Addams knocking about in her gloomy, haunted mansion. I adore Comey’s quirky sense of color — the presto-print poisoner’s dress in copper-colored silk with shots of lavender was stunning. She is also a genius when it comes to knits — her intarsia séance dress and oversize cherry-red sleepover cardigan looked warm and cozy.
View a slideshow of the Rachel Comey collection.
Inspired by cutting-edge architecture, origami, and theories of modernism, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham elegantly juxtapose traditionally luxurious silk and wool with technical-industrial metal tubing and PVC. Oversize gold dome bangles were stacked three deep, and matching buttons adorned blouses and coats. I fell in love with the cerulean-blue wool coat with box pleats and 3-D prism pockets — roomy enough for stashing my BlackBerry, credit cards, lipstick, etc. The more severe proportions of some styles were lightened up in the details: a hint of beading trimmed a collar, delicate pleating and bows defined dresses, and a shot of pink-and-silver glitter adorned the toes and heels of stunning shoes.
View a slideshow of the United Bamboo collection.
The industrial scaffolding, billowing smoke, and booming soundtrack of M.I.A. and the Gossip set the tough-chic mood for Alexander Wang’s rock-and-roll model army. Baggy cropped trousers, oversize bouclé knits, and a divine leather parka were balanced by sexy-slinky sheer-knit tanks, slim ripped tights, and thermal leggings. I especially loved the stunning black mohair jacket worn over a nude silk-petal skirt, and the washed-leather bags were amazing. The styling by co-collaborator/muse Erin Wasson was spot-on again this season.
View a slideshow of the Alexander Wang collection.Jen Mankins of Bird Likes Wang, Rag & Bone, and United Bamboo