There can be a tendency to question the worthiness of anyone young, adorable, and declared a pet by the entire fashion community. Perhaps this is why Jack McCullogh and Lazaro Hernandez, the young and adorable fashion-world darlings behind Proenza Schouler, work so very hard to deliver, season after season, collections that are well considered, beautifully executed, and always, always pushing their very specific vision forward. This season’s collection opened with a series of light, layered silk-twill dresses in jewel tones (accessorized with Crayola tights and pumps). The dresses gave way to looks defined by layers, which is where the Proenza boys truly strutted their stuff, piling on colors, textures, and fabrics of all weights. The silk twills were joined by wool felt and melton, sequined and embroidered silks, and cotton jersey.
Proenza Schouler shared last year’s CFDA honor for designer of the year with Oscar de la Renta, who showed earlier in the day. The award, and today’s shows, felt so much like the past and the future of New York fashion. There was something in the Proenza collection that paid homage to De la Renta: the palette, those serious, weighty fabrics. But the execution was undeniably fresh and cool. De la Renta, undoubtedly, would have been proud. —Amy Larocca