Richard Nicoll Dresses Like a Trout Fisherman

Richard Nicoll, amazingly, hit the ground running straight from design school — Dolce & Gabbana famously bought his graduate collection from Central Saint Martins in 2002. He now has a successful women’s line and designs a special label for Topshop. We caught up with Nicoll to discuss his current state of poverty, his love of desert boots, and a recent collaboration with British artist Linder Sterling.

What was your inspiration for fall?
It was about gaining strength through admission of vulnerability and fragility, hence the utilitarian-lingerie references, exposing the inside out. I felt that it was time to show honesty about where we are at as a society at the moment. I also worked with the artist Linder Sterling on prints and concepts, which was incredible.

What were your favorite pieces?
Look one is a plastic-coated-canvas “flasher mac” on Stam. I love it because it sets the scene. I love the elegant but slightly twisted cocktail dress from the middle of the show, and the lingerie armor suit in that sickly sweet pink.

Nicoll’s favorite look from fall. Photo: Imaxtree

What type of woman wears your clothes?
What I really like about my label is that I don’t have a type. There is a wide range of ages and sizes that wear it, but I guess what distinguishes them is their sense of individuality. I design predominately in separates, so that the wearer can deconstruct it into their own style.

What labels do you wear most?
Now I dress quite simply in classic pieces, mostly in navy blue. I’ve been going for a subtle trout-fisherman look recently, with checked shirt and woolen hat and hiking boots (honestly, it works). I like my Jil Sander navy peacoat, and I wear a lot of shirts by different people. My favorites are Margaret Howell and Acne. I love knitwear by Uniqlo and Raf, trousers by Raf Simons and Acne. I buy my shoes from Church’s and Lanvin. I buy good-quality clothes that last me for years.

Who were some of your favorite designers growing up? What about now?
When I was younger I loved Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons, Jil Sander, and Helmut Lang. Now I like a lot of people, but no one designer more than another.

What was the first designer item you bought?
A Comme des Garçons T-shirt.

Is there an item you are currently coveting?
There was, but I bought it: A pair of navy suede Church’s desert boots.

What are the differences between London and NYC in terms of fashion?
London is way more scruffy, which isn’t necessarily a good thing.

Where do you shop most in New York?
Well, yesterday I shopped at Uniqlo, because I am broke at the moment and won’t be going to any other shops this trip.

What trends are you liking for this fall?
That kind of subversive, French-chic vibe.

Any trends you wish would disappear?
Rock chick. Boring!

What’s something every woman should have in her closet?
A secret.

Finish this sentence: “I never leave the house without … “
My phone, keys, and iPod.

Richard Nicoll Dresses Like a Trout Fisherman