The latest reviews have been mostly positive. Critics offered tentative praise for Proenza Schouler’s collegiate looks and giddy raves for Marchesa’s ethereal creations. And all adored Michael Kors’s take on “relaxed luxury,” which included a fox-fur skirt and cashmere sweatpants. Read the latest reactions.
Critics adored Michael Kors’s fur- and cashmere-filled collection, which was variously described as “undone glamour” and “country luxe.” “Mr. Kors is a designer who does not see an issue with sending out a model wearing a cashmere swimsuit under a long coyote fur coat,” shrugged Eric Wilson of the Times. Not that anyone minded. WWD thought he hit a tone of “relaxed luxury,” which underscored a “terrific dissertation on pragmatic chic.” Several praised the designer’s smart business acumen. “As usual, Mr. Kors’s collection was masterfully merchandized … providing lots of items for consumers to buy,” noted The Wall Street Journal. High points were the purposely wrinkled crushed-cashmere coats and a shredded fox skirt. Despite all the heavy furs, Kors “always make[s] the clothes seem light-handed and upbeat,” lauded Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune. The point was echoed by many — what Style.com called “the combination of indulgence and irreverence.” (Cashmere sweatpants, anyone?) “In the dead of winter, what better way to beat the Monday morning blues than in a big, glistening silver storm coat and bigger silver fox hood?” asked WWD.
Watch a slideshow of the Michael Kors collection.
The critics were charmed by Marchesa’s dreamy, romantic collection. “The gowns were signature Marchesa: artful mounds of tulle, sequins and beading were molded into oversized folds, bows, and ruffles,” gushed The Wall Street Journal. Cathy Horyn of the New York Times called it “enchanting” and “gorgeous.” “The collection had a strong element of performance,” she asserted, admiring the 3-D pinwheel details. WWD praised the fine sense of craftsmanship, particularly swirling tulle creations that “seem to form a cloud around the body.” And while all the looks were worthy of praise, the popular favorite (including Horyn’s) was a silver siren gown with a tight, sheer bodice, whose appearance “induce[d] a sharp intake of breath,” sighed Style.com.
Watch a slideshow of the Marchesa collection.
After giving Proenza Schouler’s spring collection mixed reviews, the critics offered mainly praise for the designers’ fall outing. Fashion Wire Daily deemed it a “stylistic home-run,” crediting the pair with reinventing American sportswear. WWD admired an “easy lineup of clothes that bordered on collegiate,” and British Vogue felt it “surfed the sportier side of cool.” Most agreed that the collection was in line with the label’s established aesthetic. The Wall Street Journal declared it “unmistakably Proenza,” and Style.com lauded the “edgy naïveté and sexy legginess that have lately become Proenza Schouler signatures.” However, not everyone was a fan. Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune groused that, despite the focus on duffle coats, “[the coats] and clumps of fur did not seem adequate as a full winter wardrobe.” Though The Wall Street Journal called it a “strong” collection, their praise was mild: “Whether you like the looks or not, the best thing about this pair is that they take creative risks.” But in the end, the consensus for the modern, buttoned-up collection was positive. “In a word, the most 2010 clothes we’ve seen all week in New York,” asserted Fashion Wire Daily.
Watch a slideshow of the Proenza Schouler collection