Youth has always been a key factor in Proenza Schouler’s appeal: The designers themselves are so young and so adorable, it only makes sense that their clothes would be right for their female equivalents. And so it was the case again last night: Knife-pleated schoolgirl kilts were mid-thigh short and matched with thigh-high tights and prim white blouses buttoned neatly to the neck.
High-waisted jeans were a slight misstep Chloë Sevigny, who was seated in the front row, could pull them off, but she wouldn’t have much company, and one was left wondering for how much longer the eighties will be plundered for ideas. But there was more to the show than this: There were sharp black coats in alpaca and cashmere, neat coupe faille dresses, and fur coats that moved softly in a nice contrast to all those very precise pleats. After the show, socialites Victoria and Vanessa Traina tripped down the block surrounded by a gaggle of friends, most of them already in the runway’s silhouette.
Watch a slideshow of the Proenza Schouler show.