Amoy Pitters Will Always Spot a Bad Weave

Hairstylist Amoy Pitters will probably never be a household name, unless a few million people decide they want longer, thicker, and — here’s the important part — believably good-looking weaves. Still, she’s a giant in the industry, and her work has been important to people like Donatella Versace, Iman, Naomi Cambell, Trudie Styler, etc. After the lease on Pitters’s East Village salon expired, she relocated to the Upper East Side. Between putting final touches on her new space, doing house calls for her celebrity clients, and tinkering with her new product line, Pitters took a few minutes to chat (in the presence of cameras, because she is, of course, taping a show for Oxygen).

Do you notice women with bad weaves and say to yourself, “Oh, honey. What have you done?”
All the time! I notice hair everywhere I go — shopping at the grocery store, traveling, anywhere! I am always looking up to look at everyone’s hair.

I can tell! Your eyes went straight to my hair to see what I have going on!
You noticed that! If I can’t tell a girl’s hair is extensions from far away, and I have to look closer, that’s how I know the stylist did a good job. Once I was staring at the back of a girl’s head and thinking, wow, her hair looks amazing. It turned out to be a client I’d seen earlier that day.

Explain the art of a good weave.
Well, it definitely starts with the foundation. The weave must be placed correctly. The stylist also has to do a proper consultation with the client to get the color and texture perfect. And the stylist must know how to cut extensions correctly to achieve a natural look. Also, the extensions must be 100 percent natural — preferably with the cuticle, which looks and acts more naturally.

What’s the best way to put one in? You can sew it, bond it, clip it …
Depends on the clients, but never glue a weave unless it will only be worn for a very short time before. Like, a runway model at a fashion show. I never use glue at the salon, and now with clip-on products, glue is never necessary. You can transform your look in seconds. If you want a long-term look, sewing is great.

What are some mistakes women of color make with their hair?
Over-processing! Relaxers and color are damaging to hair health; it’s even worse when the processes are done together. Also, trying to perm their hair at home can be a big mistake. Putting too much tension on the hair — tight braids, ponytails, etc. — can cause breakage. There is a misconception about shampooing: Some women believe that less shampooing will help hair growth, but it’s not true! There is no need to go over a week without shampooing.

You have a tremendous celebrity clientele — what about regular people? Can they get an appointment, or do you have a waiting list?
I kinda do have a waiting list, but I don’t want to isolate myself.

If you were stranded, what are the most essential hair products to have?
A good brush and Furterer dry shampoo.

What was the first designer item you bought?
Probably a pair of Christian Dior sunglasses. It took me about a month to save up for them.

Amoy Couture Hair, 874 Lexington Ave., nr. 65th St., second fl.; 212-529-5153

Amoy Pitters Will Always Spot a Bad Weave