The glitter nipple pasties, awkward energy, sneers, and tear-stained finale bow at Emanuel Ungaro were replaced with legitimate underwear, a sense of sanity, cars full of flowers, and most important, clothes that exhibited design merit. Even if the reviews of Giles Deacon’s first show for the house as creative director aren’t the most exuberant of the spring 2011 season, those things alone are a huge coup for a label that nearly self-destructed after hiring Lindsay Lohan as artistic adviser. And Japanese Vogue fashion director Anna Dello Russo got to model in the show, looking awesome in underwear and a see-through dress, with a goat-looking thing hanging from her shoulder. Fellow models included Alessandra Ambrosio and Dree Hemingway. You may notice that though models ranged in age and appeal, they did not range in size.
The clothes were made with “couture methods,” according to WWD, and will be expensive. Even so, Cathy Horyn thought the skirts could have used more work and that Deacon could make the whole thing feel less archival next time around. But you have to love his use of pom-poms, especially on the head, reminding us all how fun it is to look like a show pony. Going around with your underwear blazing through your clothes has pretty much the same effect.