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make it work
January 13, 2012

Project Runway All Stars Recap: Going, Going, (Opera) Gown

By Alex Rees

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Photo: Lifetime

Perhaps we missed these in our giddy excitement at last week’s premiere, but aren’t this season’s opening credits glamorous? (It’s worth noting Gordana’s glam figure in particular, welcome proof that she can stand up straight and pose too.)

Right after those, it’s straight into the challenge reveal — again, these hour-long episodes are a glorious respite — with Angela, joined by design duo Mark Badgley and James Mischka of Badgley Mischka, announcing that this week the all stars get to go glam and dramatic, designing gowns worthy of a night at the opera. Of course, their time frame to do so is very limited.

After the obligatory HP product promo-blitz that now encompasses the designers’ sketching session, it’s off to Mood. (Bonus points to Anthony for wearing a “Thank You Mood”-emblazoned tee in both the workroom and his confessionals.) For the most part, these designers are too smart to freak out, fall over fabric bolts, pick gaudy polyester blends or, you know, lose all their money. But you can always count on Michael to bring some histrionics to the cutting table, this time with a wholly unnecessary freak-out over the fact that both he and April choose red fabrics. He flails, he stomps, he picks a different fabric… and that’s the end of that.

It’s quiet in the workroom, because again these designers are too smart to fight or gossip or waste any time whatsoever when they’ve been tasked with producing an approximation of couture in less than a day. There are a few murmurs when April boldly decides to dye her dress ombré-style, and then it’s already time for Joanna Coles’s crit sessions. She’s worried about April’s time management, thanks to her dip-dyeing session, and thinks Kenley’s polka-dot confection and Anthony’s cream charmeuse gown could look too bridesmaid/bridal, respectively. There’s been a definite lack of Kenley’s attitude so far this season, and dare we say we’re missing it?

Still on her rounds, Joanna offered Michael the briefest hint of her underwear-themed catchphrase to come, questioning how his dress would support a real woman’s bustline (spoiler: it wouldn’t, and Jerell helpfully points out that nip slips at the opera are bad news — perhaps even worse than your iPhone’s alarm going off mid-performance). She then asks Rami who he’s intimidated by in this challenge, and this seems to set off a round of angsty confessionals from designers saying they just know Austin’s going to win it.

These confessionals prove oddly prescient. Mark Badgley and James Mischka (who, confusingly, sit “in reverse”) join Angela, Georgina, and Isaac to watch twelve really quite high-quality looks come down the runway, which is impressive given the designers’ time and budget constraints. In another round of polite and insightful judging, Anthony’s draping, Michael’s feathers, and Austin’s gold lame were deemed the week’s best designs and, yes, Austin takes the win. He’s just giddy about it. Less successful are the designers who took their chances on brighter colors and/or prints: Kara, April, and Sweet P (tw0 weeks in a row!) fill out the bottom three  spots. Despite the apparent consensus among the designers that April’s ombré had failed badly enough to send her home, the judges nix Sweet P for her dirndl skirt and mismatched blouse.

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Anthony Williams — Top Three Perhaps it's for the best that Rami has decided to branch away from draping this season, because Anthony more than i... Anthony Williams — Top Three Perhaps it's for the best that Rami has decided to branch away from draping this season, because Anthony more than illustrates with this rich, regal look that he's a stiff competitor. The judges all loved the "vampy" context Anthony gave the look with his choice of black leather accessories — though Georgina, of all people, thought they added maybe a bit too much glitz.
April Johnston — Bottom Three Well, we'd give props to April for trying something different... if it had worked out. From the sloppy, choppy ombr... April Johnston — Bottom Three Well, we'd give props to April for trying something different... if it had worked out. From the sloppy, choppy ombré to the tortured, incongruous mix of fabrics in the bodice, this dress just didn't come together. The closest this would get to an opera house is as the costume for some sort of troubled harlot, worn for her "I'm at my lowest point, which you can tell because my dress is all messed up" solo number. Or maybe for a sort of corpse-bride-style character, which was a look April was aiming for, so perhaps she succeeded after all?
Austin Scarlett — Winner Was it a shock that Austin won? Well, no, but also yes. Because this look, while impeccably constructed and worthy of al... Austin Scarlett — Winner Was it a shock that Austin won? Well, no, but also yes. Because this look, while impeccably constructed and worthy of all the praise thrown at it, didn't seem to us to illustrate true operatic glamour as well as some of the other runway offerings. Modest and elegant eleganza indeed, but a touch more tulle and more drama would have served this look a little better.
Gordana Gehlhausen This is a pretty violet dress (with slightly concerning sheer skirt panels) that garnered absolutely no screen time whatsoever... Gordana Gehlhausen This is a pretty violet dress (with slightly concerning sheer skirt panels) that garnered absolutely no screen time whatsoever this episode. Maybe Gordana went to the chiropractor?
Jerell Scott True to form, Jerell balanced prints quite nicely with some beaded frippery, but the asymmetrical/off-center detailing at the bust d... Jerell Scott True to form, Jerell balanced prints quite nicely with some beaded frippery, but the asymmetrical/off-center detailing at the bust didn't do this look any favors. But since he has, at least so far, become this season's best one-liner-spouting critic in confessional, Jerell can probably get away with a few more middling looks like this.
Kara Janx — Bottom Three Thanks to Kara, we now know that "pa-poom" is a word. Or at least, sort of. While her skills have no doubt imp... Kara Janx — Bottom Three Thanks to Kara, we now know that "pa-poom" is a word. Or at least, sort of. While her skills have no doubt improved since her time on Runway's second season, Kara's (in)ability to cope with the pressures of the workroom have not. At all. This does make her entertaining, though. The judges found a lot of problems with her very little black bow, from its proportions to its placement, if not its presence altogether. But while her fellow designers thought her fabric choice was too twee/teen prom, Kara made a good case for it on the runway — and sold the judges on it. After all, rich kids do go to the opera.
Kenley Collins How very Kenley. Styled just perfectly, this look floated effortlessly down the runway. It seemed like an obvious contender for th... Kenley Collins How very Kenley. Styled just perfectly, this look floated effortlessly down the runway. It seemed like an obvious contender for the top, but for some reason it wasn't to be. And let's not pretend that reason isn't to make her MAD, or at least a little embittered and snarky.
Michael Costello — Top Three And to think Michael was all aflutter at not being able to use red fabric. His matte black jersey was a hit with the... Michael Costello — Top Three And to think Michael was all aflutter at not being able to use red fabric. His matte black jersey was a hit with the judges, as was his snazzy use of beading and feathers. Host Angela claimed it for her wardrobe and James Mischka called it spectacular, although it's a look rightfully described as better suited for the red carpet than an opera box. (We bet those feathers would be itchy before the first aria's end.)
Mila Hermanovski This is a pretty black dress (with a slightly worrisome fishtail hem) that garnered absolutely no screen time whatsoever this ep... Mila Hermanovski This is a pretty black dress (with a slightly worrisome fishtail hem) that garnered absolutely no screen time whatsoever this episode, either. Maybe Mila accompanied Gordana to the chiropractor?
Mondo Guerra Ok, so we want Mondo to win everything, all the time. But we thought he deserved this one for legitimate reasons, not the least beca... Mondo Guerra Ok, so we want Mondo to win everything, all the time. But we thought he deserved this one for legitimate reasons, not the least because this look hit a near-perfect balance of high-fashion drama and Mondo-fashion fun. His choice of print, and its placement, was just lovely, and adding an obi-meets-bustle cushion to the back was very smart, because even the plushy seats at Lincoln Center get uncomfortable after you've sat in them for over an hour, afraid to move in case they squeak or make other awkward furniture noises during a pivotal mid-song pause.
Rami Kashou Perhaps Rami should have gone back to draping this week. This is the sort of look that someone who's never been to the opera before w... Rami Kashou Perhaps Rami should have gone back to draping this week. This is the sort of look that someone who's never been to the opera before wears to the opera, and then other regular opera-goers look at them haughtily.
Sweet P — Out All it takes to end an all star's run is a sloppily pleated bodice, which Isaac (who's definitely trying to coin his own Kors-zinge... Sweet P — Out All it takes to end an all star's run is a sloppily pleated bodice, which Isaac (who's definitely trying to coin his own Kors-zingers) labeled as your grandma's bathing attire. Oh, and a prairie skirt. (Or a dirndl, said Badgley Mischka.) Oh, and a bottom two placement in the previous week.
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