Critics Laud Jason Wu’s ‘Fierce’ Chinese Looks, Squint at Alexander Wang



Jason Wu

• “Mr. Wu was completely at home in his retelling of Shanghai Lily…This show worked because he recognized an opportunity to exaggerate the motifs, even parody them, rather than merely borrow a bit of Chinese texture.” [NYT]

• “[H]is most confident [show] to date…But if [the lace evening dresses] will be too costumey for Wu’s crowd, there was plenty of that reliably strong sportswear to march away with.” []

• “[F]ierce in many ways…It was a startling change for Wu, but impressive, and showed off both his range as a designer and his technical abilities…an exciting about-face.” [Vogue UK]

• “Jason Wu has proved once again that his golden boy status was no fluke…We expected heaven, and he delivered.” [Fashion Week Daily]

• “[T]ackling Asia was a risk…Wu handled all [archetypes] with calculated polish and savvy commerciality…costume-y flourishes were intentional…this was Wu’s most severe and sophisticated work yet.” [WWD]

• “[I]t was Wu’s most dramatic runway show to date – and if you looked closely, his most dramatic collection as well…Wu’s woman has gotten way stronger.” [WSJ]

See the Full Fall 2012 Jason Wu Collection.


Alexander Wang

• “The silhouette looked lean and sharp, and with the aid of the press notes, I could sense that the fabrics and knits were lacquered and bonded… I mean, I think so. The details were virtually lost.” [NYT/On the Runway]

• “Alexander Wang’s fall collection was terrific — we think…The clothes were tough to see clearly…his most defined and daring [graphic sillhouettes] yet.” [WWD]

• “[H]is most luxurious-feeling collection to date…His designs exuded a new precision, as well as a new, expensive polish…Wang has been shrinking from his so-called downtown reputation.” []

• “[A] distinct movement away from his more louche, languid inclinations…[a puffer coat and vest] nondescript but commercial…for those who may have found this collection a bit too unyielding, [tangled thread shirts] had a more feminine appeal.” [Vogue UK]

See the Full Fall 2012 Alexander Wang Collection.

Peter Som

• “Mr. Som also threw in Katharine Hepburn, but it couldn’t save this mushy collection of peplums and sheer-hem pencil skirts, with the odd tuxedo shirt and pair of jodhpurs.” [NYT]

• “[I]t was a very different offering…No doubt there were elements here that many recognized from other recent runways, but the well-executed shift in emphasis seemed to elicit raves…It was certainly an unexpected move for Som to side with mean and clean.” []

• “It was peplums, peplums and more peplums…Som relied on a palette of bottle green, burgundy, muddy brown (which sometimes was a little too sludgy), with flashes of neon pink.” [Vogue UK]

• “[The collection] explored the precarious balancing act of smoldering femininity and masculine garb…All in all? You’ll want Som. Just trust.” [Fashion Week Daily]

• “[H]e downplayed the eclectic styling while turning his keen eye on color, which was a beautiful progression…[The silhouette] was strongest on short jackets but at times veered into over-exaggeration.” [WWD]

See the Full Fall 2012 Peter Som Collection.

Richard Chai Love

• “If the sooty-stripe blazers and full skirts that Richard Chai showed looked a little down in the dumps, it was at least a familiar gloominess…The collection, then, perked you up right away.” [NYT]

• “[T]he collection’s biggest impact was a great-looking navy and charcoal striped tweed…It fell prey to awkward proportions in the suit that was the first look out, but was a smart and polished winner in nearly every other iteration.” []

• “Color-lovers beware; minimalists rejoice…The practicality of the collection was kept in check…Even the hiker extraordinaire needs a few dressier looks for evening.” [Fashion Week Daily]

• “[A]n appealing, wearable mix suited for an urban customer…The outerwear was strong.” [WWD]

See the Full Fall 2012 Richard Chai Love Collection.

Critics Laud Jason Wu, Can’t See Alexander Wang