• Intelligencer
  • The Cut
  • Vulture
  • The Strategist
  • Curbed
  • Grub Street
  • Subscribe to the Magazine Give a Gift Subscription Buy Back Issues Current Issue Contents
    Subscribe to New York Magazine
  • Subscribe
  • Profile
    Sign Out
The Cut
  • Style
  • Self
  • Culture
  • Power
Style
  • Fashion
  • Beauty
  • Shopping
  • Design Hunting
  • New York Weddings
  • Parties & Red Carpet
  • Fashion Shows
  • Cathy Horyn
Self
  • Health & Wellness
  • Motherhood
  • Advice
  • Sex & Relationships
  • Science of Us
  • Horoscopes
  • Ask Polly
Culture
  • Books
  • Television
  • Movies
  • Music
  • Celebrity
Power
  • Politics
  • Work
  • Money
  • Rebecca Traister
More
  • Latest Stories
  • Video
  • About Us
  • The Cut Shop
  • nymag.com
  • New York Magazine
  • Intelligencer
  • Vulture
  • The Cut
  • The Strategist
  • Grub Street
February 24, 2012

Raf Simons at Jil Sander: A Retrospective

By Charlotte Cowles

Share

  • Share
  • Tweet

When Raf Simons took over at Jil Sander seven years ago, he was merely a little-known Belgian menswear designer with no experience making clothes for women. He got the job because Prada S.p.A., then Jil Sander’s parent company, wanted to preserve the brand’s reputation for pared-down, sculptural suiting, its cash cow at the time. Prada recognized Simons’s suit-making abilities based on his eponymous menswear label (which he kept up throughout his tenure at Jil Sander), and hired him after the label’s founder made her (second) stormy departure in 2005. Simons quickly established himself as a worthy successor, turning out new shapes season after season without losing touch with the label’s spare, streamlined minimalism. Regardless of his next direction (!!!), Simons’s gorgeous body of work at Jil Sander will be a tough act to follow. Take a look at some of the greatest hits from all his womenswear collections (plus a few from his men’s, just for good measure) in our slideshow.

Related:
Confirmed: Raf Simons to Leave Jil Sander 
Jil Sander the Designer Returns to Jil Sander the Brand 
Jil Sander Confirms Jil Sander’s Return

View
1 / 15 Photos
Fall 2006 RTW At his first-ever womenswear show for Jil Sander — indeed, his first womenswear collection, period — Simons stayed true t... Fall 2006 RTW At his first-ever womenswear show for Jil Sander — indeed, his first womenswear collection, period — Simons stayed true to the label's signature minimalistic yet bold shapes. He also proved that he wasn't afraid to play with exaggerated volume. 
Spring 2007 RTW For his second womenswear collection, Simons busted out those billowing, brightly colored monochromatic dresses that everyone ass... Spring 2007 RTW For his second womenswear collection, Simons busted out those billowing, brightly colored monochromatic dresses that everyone associates with him today. "I wanted energy," he told journalists at the show.
Fall 2007 RTW This collection arguably cemented Simons's role as a major up-and-comer. Cathy Horyn wrote in her review for the Times, "On Tu... Fall 2007 RTW This collection arguably cemented Simons's role as a major up-and-comer. Cathy Horyn wrote in her review for the Times, "On Tuesday a little-known Belgian designer named Raf Simons had the full attention of the fashion world. Mr. Simons's collection for Jil Sander, his third since becoming creative director 18 months ago, was perfect. It will make everything else, I bet, seem a little contrived, a little clunky, a little silly." Tilda Swinton later wore this silver dress on the red carpet.
Spring 2008 RTW Simons introduced fun tulle detailing in this collection, but also: color-blocking! Little did we know how huge this would become.
Fall 2008 Menswear Simons was reportedly hired at Jil Sander because the label's trim, simple suits (for both men and women) were its biggest sel... Fall 2008 Menswear Simons was reportedly hired at Jil Sander because the label's trim, simple suits (for both men and women) were its biggest sellers, and Simons' aptitude for suit-making was evident from his eponymous menswear label. For Jil Sander menswear, he stuck to his spare, expert tailoring and played with cool graphic prints.
Fall 2008 RTW Jil Sander's original signature silhouettes included exaggerated cowl-necks and voluminous geometric shapes. Simons nailed both. ... Fall 2008 RTW Jil Sander's original signature silhouettes included exaggerated cowl-necks and voluminous geometric shapes. Simons nailed both.
Spring 2009 RTW This collection, full of cutouts and fringe, marked a slinky departure from the traditional Jil Sander aesthetic. Although it's n... Spring 2009 RTW This collection, full of cutouts and fringe, marked a slinky departure from the traditional Jil Sander aesthetic. Although it's not the kind of look Simons is known for, it shows that he's capable of branching out. He explained at the time, "Jil Sander must always be pure, and I'm aware of making any reference minimal, but I also want to show my freedom to be inspired by the moment."
Fall 2009 Menswear Simons remains one of the few menswear designers who make modern, innovative clothes — sculpted wool jackets with multico... Fall 2009 Menswear Simons remains one of the few menswear designers who make modern, innovative clothes — sculpted wool jackets with multicolored panels, for example — that don't cross the line into weird.
Fall 2009 RTW This season's big hit was the sculptural ruffle, rendered in graphic black and white.
Spring 2010 RTW Simons's edgy hip ruffles and tulle panels paved the way for Stella McCartney's wildly popular curvy cutouts and t... Spring 2010 RTW Simons's edgy hip ruffles and tulle panels paved the way for Stella McCartney's wildly popular curvy cutouts and today's peplum craze.
Fall 2010 RTW An underacclaimed aspect of Simons's womenswear is that even his most conceptual designs — this one-sleeved coat, for instance — we... Fall 2010 RTW An underacclaimed aspect of Simons's womenswear is that even his most conceptual designs — this one-sleeved coat, for instance — were sensible and comfortable. His collections never left anyone clutching their pearls about whether the models would make it safely down the catwalk.
Spring 2011 RTW This collection, arguably the apex of his career at Jil Sander, garnered gushing reviews and spawned hundreds of knockoff looks f... Spring 2011 RTW This collection, arguably the apex of his career at Jil Sander, garnered gushing reviews and spawned hundreds of knockoff looks from the Zaras of the world. It also kicked off two huge trends that are still going strong: color-blocking (seen also in his spring 2008 collection, among others) and peplum. “He’s the only one putting out new shapes,” said Emmanuelle Alt, then the fashion director at French Vogue.
Fall 2011 Menswear Okay, so this was basically a wintery menswear version of the spring 2011 women's collection, but no one was tired of those lo... Fall 2011 Menswear Okay, so this was basically a wintery menswear version of the spring 2011 women's collection, but no one was tired of those looks yet anyway.
Fall 2011 RTW A somber, more covered-up take on the voluminous shapes from the previous season, which everyone still loved.
Spring 2012 RTW Simons called his second-to-last collection "the last in my couture trilogy," presumably referring to what Horyn called... Spring 2012 RTW Simons called his second-to-last collection "the last in my couture trilogy," presumably referring to what Horyn called "the couture shapes that the designer [explored in the past two seasons]... the fixed waists, the loose-back jackets." Now that he's rumored for Dior, the couture connotations have an entirely different meaning.
1 / 15

Tags:

  • raf simons
  • prada spa
  • jil sander
  • slideshow
  • dior watch
  • dior
  • ins and outs
  • galliano
  • More

More Galleries

fashion Mar. 15, 2021
Dramatic Wedding Gowns Inspired by Flowers  Danielle Frankel bridges the gap between bridal and fashion. 
campaign trail Jan. 28, 2021
 The Best Fashion Campaigns From Spring 2021  This season’s best from Prada, Versace, Miu Miu, and more. 
By Florence O'Connor
in memoriam Dec. 30, 2020
30 Incredible Fashion Moments From Pierre Cardin  Remembering a creative visionary. 
By Andrew Nguyen
rest in power Dec. 23, 2020
A Photo Memorial for an Iconic Model  She passed away suddenly at the age of 50 this week. 
campaign trail Nov. 18, 2020
‘Tis the Season for New Fashion Ads  See the best ones from Gucci, Prada, Versace, and more. 
By Emily Burns
nyfw spring 2021 Oct. 26, 2020
How a Great Collection Comes Alive  Christopher John Rogers launched its first-ever online shop, along with a new campaign. 
By Andrew Nguyen
campaign trail Sept. 24, 2020
See the Fashion Campaigns for Fall 2020  From Prada, Michael Kors, Celine, Louis Vuitton, and more. 
By Andrew Nguyen
nyfw spring 2021 Sept. 22, 2020
See the Coach Spring 2021 Collection  Worn by Megan Thee Stallion, Kate Moss, Cole Sprouse, and more. 
By Andrew Nguyen
fashion Sept. 16, 2020
The Stunning Awkwardness of Face Masks on the Red Carpet  Celebrities tried to make the best of a strange situation at the 2020 Venice Film Festival. 
one word one shot Sept. 15, 2020
72 Designers on Their Spring/Summer Inspirations  Just in time for Fashion Week. 
By the Cut
red carpet Sept. 8, 2020
This Red Carpet Was Totally Surreal  But also amazing. See all the looks at the Venice Film Festival. 
By Emilia Petrarca and Andrew Nguyen
in memoriam Aug. 31, 2020
Remembering Chadwick Boseman on the Red Carpet  His style was bold, risk-taking, and always impeccable. 
the wedding files Aug. 21, 2020
The Design-Minded Couple Who Didn’t Want to Try Too Hard  The bride got a wonderful surprise the morning of her wedding. 
By Kaitlin Menza
the wedding files Aug. 14, 2020
A Costa Rica Wedding During the Rainy Season  Thunder roared during the toasts. 
By Kaitlin Menza
the wedding files Aug. 7, 2020
A San Francisco Wedding at a Big, Empty Pier  The bride changed into crushed-velvet pants for the disco-infused reception. 
By Kaitlin Menza
the wedding files July 31, 2020
An Elopement Among the Lupines in Iceland  The late afternoon was spent snapping photos near waterfalls and black beaches. 
By Kaitlin Menza
the wedding files July 24, 2020
A Pennsylvania Potluck for 280 People  “I looked at her for the first time and had this feeling like, You. I know you.” 
By Kaitlin Menza
milan fashion week July 22, 2020
Behind the Scenes at Gucci’s Virtual Show  Instead of models, members of the design team sported the eccentric collection. 
By Andrew Nguyen
the wedding files July 17, 2020
A Dance Party Under Puerto Rican Palm Trees  Bad Bunny blasted and pitorro flowed. 
By Kaitlin Menza
the wedding files July 10, 2020
A Zoom Wedding Only Two Digital Creatives Could Produce  The couple coordinated multiple video segments, breakout rooms, and a dance party. 
By Kaitlin Menza
  • Style
  • Self
  • Culture
  • Power
  • Newsletters
  • About Us
  • Contact
  • Help
  • We’re Hiring
  • Press
  • Trademark
  • Privacy
  • Terms
  • Ad Choices
  • Do Not Sell My Info
  • Accessibility
The Cut is a Vox Media Network. © 2021 Vox Media, LLC. All rights reserved.