Oscar dressing hasn’t always been the fashion equivalent of the NFL draft, complete with teams of celebrity stylists, designers, and sponsors (with pro sports-style budgets) partaking in actress’ red-carpet preparations. Once upon a time thespians dressed for the Academy Awards like they might for any other special event — say, a formal ball, a bar mitzvah, or Spiderman-themed wedding (Cher). Clicking through the refreshingly normal-looking women (i.e., not Cher) who populate the first half of these slides, one can practically hear the shift in 1995, when Uma Thurman’s pale periwinkle Prada transformed the red carpet into a runway for designer-loaned looks. Beaded muumuus gave way to ballgowns, peaking with Gwyneth’s bubble-gum pink Ralph Lauren in 1999. Since then, dresses have seemed safe by comparison, showing less of the actresses’ personalities and far fewer of the singularly stylish missteps of the ’80s and early ’90s — which makes sense considering they’re dressing by committee.
One thing that hasn’t changed on the Best Actress roster is the absence of women of color. Since the Oscars began in 1929, only 11 black, four Latina, and one Asian woman have been nominated, with Halle Berry finally bringing an Oscar home in 2002. No woman of color has won since then.This year, Roma’s Yalitza Apariciois the one woman of color nominated for Best Actress. On Sunday we’re hoping to see other signs of change like the ones we witnessed last year, when theBlack Panther cast won the red carpet, Frances McDormand touted inclusion riders in her acceptance speech, and several women wore natural hair.
Click through to see the Oscars’ red-carpet style evolution, including mother-of-the-bride dresses, top-to-toe emerald green, and what appear to be palazzo pants, on the Best Actress winners of the past 36 years.
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1982, Katharine Hepburn
In a bit of a swipe at the Hollywood machine and, well, retrospective slideshows, Katharine Hepburn let presenter Jon V... 1982, Katharine Hepburn
In a bit of a swipe at the Hollywood machine and, well, retrospective slideshows, Katharine Hepburn let presenter Jon Voight (and father of red carpet royalty Angelina Jolie) accept the award for On Golden Pond on her behalf. Hepburn was famous for her headstrong style. These days, it's hard to imagine many Best Actresses dressing themselves, much less being too busy to accept their awards.
Photo: Ron Galella/WireImage
1983, Meryl Streep
Meryl Streep, pregnant with her daughter Mamie Gummer, gets the gold (and wears it) for her performance in Sophie’s Choice. ... 1983, Meryl Streep
Meryl Streep, pregnant with her daughter Mamie Gummer, gets the gold (and wears it) for her performance in Sophie’s Choice. It might look a little like a window treatment from an Indian restaurant, but Streep had already earned fashion points for her look in Manhattan. (And would reach costume nirvana two years later in Out of Africa, ostensibly laying the groundwork for Ralph Lauren's Safari label.)
Photo: Barry King/WireImage
1984, Shirley MacLaine
Shirley MacLaine won in 1984 for Terms of Endearment. And what could be more endearing than little red sideburns and a m... 1984, Shirley MacLaine
Shirley MacLaine won in 1984 for Terms of Endearment. And what could be more endearing than little red sideburns and a mother-of-the-bride dress?
Photo: Ron Galella/WireImage
1985, Sally Field
Sally Field, victorious for her role in Places in the Heart, shows off impressive biceps and totally normal tanlines (this wa... 1985, Sally Field
Sally Field, victorious for her role in Places in the Heart, shows off impressive biceps and totally normal tanlines (this was obviously before bronzing oneself to match the statues became a thing), and that little bow necklace probably didn't even come with its own bodyguard. Between that and the lavender eyeshadow, she's like a gift from the '80s.
Photo: AP
1986, Geraldine Page (second from right)
It's hard not to be distracted by Anjelica Huston's glowing green gown, but turn your attention to the... 1986, Geraldine Page (second from right)
It's hard not to be distracted by Anjelica Huston's glowing green gown, but turn your attention to the late Geraldine Page's burnout velvet cloak (so ahead-of-her-time nineties!). The actress won on her eighth and final Oscar nomination, for The Trip to Bountiful. Photo: Anonymous/AP Images
1987, Marlee Matlin
What is happening here? It's like the Oscars, with some Miss America and a dash of Victoria's Secret thrown in. Marlee Matl... 1987, Marlee Matlin
What is happening here? It's like the Oscars, with some Miss America and a dash of Victoria's Secret thrown in. Marlee Matlin, winning for Children of a Lesser God — and just winning, generally.
Photo: Ron Galella/WireImage
1988, Cher Oh, Cher. For some reason, even in the age of Gaga's meat dresses and face-webs, Cher's Bob Mackie is still so much more exciting, bec... 1988, Cher Oh, Cher. For some reason, even in the age of Gaga's meat dresses and face-webs, Cher's Bob Mackie is still so much more exciting, because you kind of get the feeling she just wore this because she liked it.
Photo: Jim Smeal/WireImage
1989, Jodie Foster
Jodie Foster, accepting her Best Actress Award for The Accused, reportedly bought this dress off the rack in Rome before she... 1989, Jodie Foster
Jodie Foster, accepting her Best Actress Award for The Accused, reportedly bought this dress off the rack in Rome before she knew she was nominated. (Not at Armani, probably.) It looks a little big and the fins are obviously awkward, but now it seems so novel for a Best Actress to actually pick something out AND buy it — extra points for looking like she loves it. No blaming the stylist here.
Photo: Ron Galella, Ltd./WireImage
1990, Jessica Tandy
Jessica Tandy, winning for Driving Miss Daisy, in what photographed like a Laura Ashley prairie print, but actually sparkle... 1990, Jessica Tandy
Jessica Tandy, winning for Driving Miss Daisy, in what photographed like a Laura Ashley prairie print, but actually sparkled like a disco ball on TV.
Photo: Doug Pizac/AP Images
1991, Kathy Bates
Kathy Bates playing it sort of safe in spangly shoulder pads and black velvet. (That's Daniel Day-Lewis with the Kenny G. hai... 1991, Kathy Bates
Kathy Bates playing it sort of safe in spangly shoulder pads and black velvet. (That's Daniel Day-Lewis with the Kenny G. hair beside her.) Bates was nominated for her performance in Misery, up against Julia Roberts for Pretty Woman. That just sounds like a tough night out, so it's nice that she won.
Photo: Barry King/WireImage
1992, Jodie Foster
Jodie Foster in Armani, keeping her Oscar for The Silence of the Lambs fingerprint-free, thanks to some shiny white gloves.&... 1992, Jodie Foster
Jodie Foster in Armani, keeping her Oscar for The Silence of the Lambs fingerprint-free, thanks to some shiny white gloves. What's under that jacket?
Photo: Ron Galella, Ltd./WireImage
1993, Emma Thompson
It's hard to tell if Emma Thompson's all green getup (are those pants?) is supposed to look a little cockamamie and assymet... 1993, Emma Thompson
It's hard to tell if Emma Thompson's all green getup (are those pants?) is supposed to look a little cockamamie and assymetrical, but it's sort of working, thanks to that pose. She's English! And quirky! And co-starred with Helena Bonham Carter, who was surely wearing something wonderfully weirder.
Photo: Ron Galella, Ltd./WireImage
1994, Holly Hunter
Between her loose hair, understated makeup, and seriously toned arms, Holly Hunter looks more like an Olympian than an Oscar... 1994, Holly Hunter
Between her loose hair, understated makeup, and seriously toned arms, Holly Hunter looks more like an Olympian than an Oscar-winner, posing with her statuette for her performance in The Piano. Hunter actually ran her hand through her hair during her acceptance speech, possibly marking the last time an actress was able to do that.
Photo: Time Life Pictures./Time Life Pictures
1995, Jessica Lange (third from right)
Jessica Lange won Best Actress in 1995 for playing 1950s bombshell Carly Marshall in Blue Sky. It's hard... 1995, Jessica Lange (third from right)
Jessica Lange won Best Actress in 1995 for playing 1950s bombshell Carly Marshall in Blue Sky. It's hard to tell with that shawl, but Lange actually had a bit of a Madonna/Gaultier-bullet-bra thing happening with the underlayer of her sheer dress. Actual Academy Awards aside, the 1995 Oscars were all about Uma Thurman's palest periwinkle Prada dress, which began a new era of celebrity-as-designer-billboard.
Photo: Lois Bernstein/AP Images
1996, Susan Sarandon
The generally unfussy Susan Sarandon wore this enormous-skirted Dolce and Gabbana ballgown the year she won for Dead Man W...1996, Susan Sarandon
The generally unfussy Susan Sarandon wore this enormous-skirted Dolce and Gabbana ballgown the year she won for Dead Man Walking. Actresses seemed to reason in the years to follow: If serious Susan Sarandon wore a Disney-princess dress, well, so could they.
Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage
1997, Frances McDormand
Winning for her portrayal of chief Marge Gunderson in Fargo, Frances McDormand disarms the fashion police in a nav... 1997, Frances McDormand
Winning for her portrayal of chief Marge Gunderson in Fargo, Frances McDormand disarms the fashion police in a navy satin dress that's less irreverent than her usual sartorial choices — a rare case of a Best Actress nomination sobering up one's fashion sense.
Photo: Ron Galella/WireImage
1998, Helen Hunt
Helen Hunt won in 1998 for As Good as It Gets, which sort of says it here.
Photo: Ron Galella/WireImage
1999, Gwyneth Paltrow
Gwyneth Paltrow, winning for Shakespeare in Love, dripping in tears, Harry Winston ($160,000 dollars worth), and so much ... 1999, Gwyneth Paltrow
Gwyneth Paltrow, winning for Shakespeare in Love, dripping in tears, Harry Winston ($160,000 dollars worth), and so much pink Ralph Lauren. The dress — and the moment — bordered on ridiculous Barbie princess, but that was sort of her thing at the time. She’s Gwyneth Paltrow. She’s 26. She’s winning an Oscar. And she’s not yet blogging about her cleanse. Just be happy for her.
Photo: ERIC DRAPER/AP Images
2000, Hilary Swank
It's hard to feel like Hilary Swank, winning here for Boys Don't Cry, isn't just having a modified Gwyneth moment in massive... 2000, Hilary Swank
It's hard to feel like Hilary Swank, winning here for Boys Don't Cry, isn't just having a modified Gwyneth moment in massive silk taffeta and a six-figure necklace. But, it's working, especially considering Swank spent a month living as a boy to prepare for her role.
Photo: ERIC DRAPER/AP
2001, Julia Roberts
Julia Roberts won in 2001 for Erin Brockovich, in which her wardrobe consisted of a sheer leopard blouse with matching heel... 2001, Julia Roberts
Julia Roberts won in 2001 for Erin Brockovich, in which her wardrobe consisted of a sheer leopard blouse with matching heels, myriad push-up bras, and what appeared to be a lot of pleather and stretch lace. She more than made up for it by wearing this vintage Valentino velvet column.
Photo: Terry McGinnis/WireImage
2002, Halle Berry
There's a little bit of a curtain-sarong thing happening here, but one has to praise Halle Berry for taking a risk and lookin... 2002, Halle Berry
There's a little bit of a curtain-sarong thing happening here, but one has to praise Halle Berry for taking a risk and looking really pretty while she does it. Plus, it just seems cheap to criticize a person who is naked from the waist up.
Photo: SGranitz/WireImage
2003, Nicole Kidman
Here is Nicole Kidman, who won for her portrayal of Virgina Woolf in The Hours. This Jean Paul Gaultier dress has THREE str... 2003, Nicole Kidman
Here is Nicole Kidman, who won for her portrayal of Virgina Woolf in The Hours. This Jean Paul Gaultier dress has THREE straps, and they all come from the same side! Imagine how confusing it would be to put on — but that's what stylists are for.
Photo: SGranitz/WireImage
2004, Charlize Theron
Look how much Charlize Theron looks like the Oscar statue here, holding her award for Monster. This dress is from Tom For... 2004, Charlize Theron
Look how much Charlize Theron looks like the Oscar statue here, holding her award for Monster. This dress is from Tom Ford's last collection for Gucci, and true to form, it's golden, glittering, and body-conscious.
Photo: SGranitz/WireImage
2005, Hilary Swank
Hilary Swank, five years after her silk taffeta moment, slimming it down in Guy Laroche to accept her award for Million Doll...2005, Hilary Swank
Hilary Swank, five years after her silk taffeta moment, slimming it down in Guy Laroche to accept her award for Million Dollar Baby. She was completely covered up in the front, totally exposed in the back, and prettiest from the side. Awkward, but true.
Photo: Chris Polk/FilmMagic
2006, Reese Witherspoon
Reese Witherspoon, looking a little bit country — probably still channeling June Carter Cash — as she accepts her award... 2006, Reese Witherspoon
Reese Witherspoon, looking a little bit country — probably still channeling June Carter Cash — as she accepts her award for Walk the Line.
Photo: Mirek Towski/FilmMagic
2007, Helen Mirren This is what a Dame looks like. Helen Mirren, with her award for The Queen, appropriately.
Photo: Lester Cohen/WireImage
2008, Marion Cotillard Marion Cotillard with her Oscar for La Vie en Rose, looking very Parisian mermaid bride in Gaultier.
Photo: Steve Granitz...2008, Marion Cotillard Marion Cotillard with her Oscar for La Vie en Rose, looking very Parisian mermaid bride in Gaultier.
Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage
2009, Kate Winslet
The asymmetry and varied fabrics of this Yves Saint Laurent gown may feel a bit busy until one remembers this was the year t... 2009, Kate Winslet
The asymmetry and varied fabrics of this Yves Saint Laurent gown may feel a bit busy until one remembers this was the year that Penelope Cruz, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Marisa Tomei all went full-skirted bride. Kate Winslet won for The Reader, and that gunmetal gray-blue silk matched her eyes pretty perfectly.
Photo: Jennifer Graylock/AP Images
2010, Sandra Bullock
Shortly after Sandra Bullock won this award for The Blind Side, her marriage to Jesse James fell apart. How many headline ... 2010, Sandra Bullock
Shortly after Sandra Bullock won this award for The Blind Side, her marriage to Jesse James fell apart. How many headline puns must've come out of that one? Either way, this was a very dignified Marchesa dress.
Photo: Jeffrey Mayer/WireImage
2011, Natalie Portman It's nice that Natalie Portman has good taste, but being pregnant at the Oscars just seems like such a prime opportunity to... 2011, Natalie Portman It's nice that Natalie Portman has good taste, but being pregnant at the Oscars just seems like such a prime opportunity to let that go. A pregnant Rodarte Black Swan could have been just so amazing.
Photo: Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic
2012, Jennifer Lawrence With a train on a Dior gown like this, it's no wonder she tripped while getting on stage to accept her award for Silver Lining...2012, Jennifer Lawrence With a train on a Dior gown like this, it's no wonder she tripped while getting on stage to accept her award for Silver Linings Playbook, but she looked gorgeous doing it. Photo: Jason Merritt/Getty Images
2013, Cate Blanchett Accepting the award for her role in Blue Jasmine, Cate wore one of the most expensive Oscars dresses of all time: an Armani Privé... 2013, Cate Blanchett Accepting the award for her role in Blue Jasmine, Cate wore one of the most expensive Oscars dresses of all time: an Armani Privé gown embellished with $100,000 worth of Swarovski crystals. Photo: Jeffrey Mayer/WireImage
2014, Julianne Moore You can't go wrong with Chanel, and she looked like a classic beauty in it when she won for her role in Still Alice. Photo: Jason...2014, Julianne Moore You can't go wrong with Chanel, and she looked like a classic beauty in it when she won for her role in Still Alice. Photo: Jason Merritt/Getty Images
2015, Brie Larson When she won an Oscar for her role in Room, she also received acclaim for this electric blue gown that Gucci custom-made for her. Ph...2015, Brie Larson When she won an Oscar for her role in Room, she also received acclaim for this electric blue gown that Gucci custom-made for her. Photo: C Flanigan/FilmMagic
2016, Emma Stone In a golden Givenchy gown with beaded fringe and an embellished bodice, Emma collected her award for La La Land looking like an award... 2016, Emma Stone In a golden Givenchy gown with beaded fringe and an embellished bodice, Emma collected her award for La La Land looking like an award herself. Photo: David Crotty/2017 David Crotty
2017, Frances McDormand In an empowering feminist speech accepting her award for Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri, Frances touted inclusion r... 2017, Frances McDormand In an empowering feminist speech accepting her award for Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri, Frances touted inclusion riders and asked every female nominee to stand with her in solidarity. Photo: MARK RALSTON/AFP/Getty Images
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