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dior watch
April 11, 2012

What Will Become of Bill Gaytten?

By Charlotte Cowles

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Photo: Dominique Charriau/WireImage

There’s been much ado about Raf Simons’s appointment at Dior, but let’s not forget about Bill Gaytten, who gamely assumed the house’s creative director duties after John Galliano’s infamous exit more than a year ago. A gifted craftsman who had worked as Galliano’s right-hand man for years, Gaytten wasn’t a well-known name in the fashion industry when he took over, and many critics believed he wasn’t up for the job. Indeed, his first show, the house’s winter couture collection, was a disastrous mess of clownish headpieces and awkward frills. But Gaytten learned quickly, and his five subsequent collections for the house were relatively well-received.

Although he may lack Galliano’s flair for courageous, dramatic statements, Gaytten managed to produce consistently pretty, wearable, and Dior–appropriate clothes. Meanwhile, the house’s sales boomed over the past year, leading many to wonder if Gaytten’s “interim” status might become permanent. He certainly seemed to want the position, and one couldn’t help but feel sorry for him every time a new rumor about his replacement made the rounds — some even fueled by his own boss at LVMH, Bernard Arnault. Between Galliano’s disgraced departure and the fashion world’s wary scrutiny, poor Gaytten deserves to be commended for doing fine work under tremendous pressure.

There’s been no mention of Gaytten’s role at Dior now that Simons has taken over, which seems odd. He remains the head designer at Galliano’s eponymous label, so he still has plenty on his plate. (In the meantime, he might enjoy some time out of the spotlight — or at least a well-deserved vacation.) Click through our slideshow for an analytic review of all six of his collections from the past year.

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Fall 2011 Couture An incoherent mix of fluttery rainbow dresses, star-and-moon headpieces, and fluffy layers, Gaytten's first collection post–Gal... Fall 2011 Couture An incoherent mix of fluttery rainbow dresses, star-and-moon headpieces, and fluffy layers, Gaytten's first collection post–Galliano was widely panned. Models attempted to add drama to their feather-studded caftans by flapping their arms, but it wound up looking over-the-top in a bad — and even sad — way. Suzy Menkes wrote, "This carnival of a show looked like a bunch of partygoers had done a witty, wacky take on Dior extravaganzas ... a parody of a show circa 1975." WWD added, "It telegraphed interim status, and in haute couture, interim doesn’t work."
Fall 2011 Couture When asked backstage if he wanted Galliano's old post, Gaytten responded, "Yeah, I do ... I’m not a fool." ... Fall 2011 Couture When asked backstage if he wanted Galliano's old post, Gaytten responded, "Yeah, I do ... I’m not a fool." Cathy Horyn wrote, "I like Mr. Gaytten. He’s a sweetheart, but he is not a designer."
Resort 2012 Rather than stage a big fashion show like Galliano did in Shanghai for the 2011 resort collection, Dior held an informal present... Resort 2012 Rather than stage a big fashion show like Galliano did in Shanghai for the 2011 resort collection, Dior held an informal presentation in their Paris headquarters and released photographs to the press afterwards. Gaytten took no chances this time around, rendering beachy caftans and drop-waist dresses in basic blues and pinks that served as a nice backdrop for the label's highly profitable accessories.
Resort 2012 Vogue wrote that "the collection [didn't] scream 'Dior' in any recognizable sense," but commended Gaytt... Resort 2012 Vogue wrote that "the collection [didn't] scream 'Dior' in any recognizable sense," but commended Gaytten's "serviceable, commercial job, done in a refreshingly straightforward way." 
Spring 2012 Everyone agreed that these safe, pretty clothes were an improvement over Gaytten's couture disaster, but few were won over entirely. ... Spring 2012 Everyone agreed that these safe, pretty clothes were an improvement over Gaytten's couture disaster, but few were won over entirely. Lynn Yaeger deemed it "a serviceable if lackluster collection hardly commensurate with the fuss and bother it takes to get into the Rodin Museum, where the show is held." Meanwhile, LVMH's Bernard Arnault told journalists at the show that an announcement about Galliano's replacement "might" happen in a few weeks — hardly a nice thing to say with poor Gaytten toiling away backstage.
Spring 2012 Karlie Kloss closed the show in a sheer skirt that revealed her bare bottom, which gave everyone a momentary distraction from gossipi... Spring 2012 Karlie Kloss closed the show in a sheer skirt that revealed her bare bottom, which gave everyone a momentary distraction from gossiping about Gaytten's replacement. 
Pre-Fall 2012 This streamlined collection drew heavily from Dior's archives. Vogue's Mark Holgate approved, for the most part: "It... Pre-Fall 2012 This streamlined collection drew heavily from Dior's archives. Vogue's Mark Holgate approved, for the most part: "It’s not surprising that the house would opt for a moment of retrenchment, offering a refined, and dependable quietude. But is it just a little too quiet?"
Pre-Fall 2012 No one ever contested Gaytten's ability to craft sumptuous fabrics into amazing shapes. His creative vision may have been questiona... Pre-Fall 2012 No one ever contested Gaytten's ability to craft sumptuous fabrics into amazing shapes. His creative vision may have been questionable, but his talent for pattern-cutting was always evident, particularly in garments like this long black gown and belted wool coat.
Spring 2012 Couture Gaytten's second stab at couture was so much better than his first that many industry folks wondered if he should helm the fa... Spring 2012 Couture Gaytten's second stab at couture was so much better than his first that many industry folks wondered if he should helm the fashion house permanently after all. The collection's "x-ray" theme revealed the many layers of construction within each elaborate garment, resulting in a series of gauzy dresses with sheer panels and voluminous skirts.
Spring 2012 Couture Although the dresses were certainly beautiful, many critics agreed that the collection lacked oomph: "Dior needs a ... Spring 2012 Couture Although the dresses were certainly beautiful, many critics agreed that the collection lacked oomph: "Dior needs a designer with real, imaginative weight. And there is little sense of when someone will be," wrote Horyn. Suzy Menkes added, "In every sense, this show on the first day of the brief couture season was Dior Light. There was not much personality or charm, yet a careful rendition of the codes of the house."
Fall 2012 Gaytten's most recent collection, a ballet-inspired parade of blush and dove gray tulle paired with toe-shoe-esque heels, proved that h... Fall 2012 Gaytten's most recent collection, a ballet-inspired parade of blush and dove gray tulle paired with toe-shoe-esque heels, proved that he could indeed hold his own. "Mr. Gaytten’s learning curve is strong," observed the Wall Street Journal's Christina Passariello, noting that "the designer added more sass than in the past."
Fall 2012 According to Vogue's Sarah Mower, "Dior’s fall collection, with its rational emphasis on the wearable and simply pretty, will prov... Fall 2012 According to Vogue's Sarah Mower, "Dior’s fall collection, with its rational emphasis on the wearable and simply pretty, will provide a safe, timeless, fashion-neutral haven for shopping." Indeed, this should be Gaytten's legacy: lovely dresses modeled safely within the blueprint of Dior's timeless aesthetic.
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