Now that it’s scarf season, bright lip colors in punchy pinks, cherry reds, and Palm Beach corals have been stashed away as we embrace a new statement look with darker, vampier, oxblood tones. But with a look that’s so brazen, one favored by the likes of Cruella de Vil and nineties-era Shannen Doherty, it can be tough to match the rest of your makeup. At Barneys New York recently, makeup artists from five very different brands each concocted looks for the Cut based around this decidedly darker tone, and it quickly got a bit Goldilocks. At Giorgio Armani, a 45-minute application that included smoky eyes, faux lashes, plus a look-at-me pout proved to be too much va-va-voom. Meanwhile, a By Terry palette of muted, blended, purple-black shadows, sans eyeliner, suited an understated look better — like a bumped-up version of an everyday face. Click through to see those, and three more ways to try this look yourself.