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October 15, 2012

The Nineties: Twenty Songs, Twenty Styling Pieces

By Veronica Misako Gledhill

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As much of fashion focused on the eighties during the later aughts, there was only one logical next step for designers: the nineties. With an obsession on web start-ups and a lingering recession, the headlines didn’t look so different then. There was a vague pessimism, politicians seemed particularly focused on undecided female voters and Kate Moss was everywhere. People still wanted their MTV. And those who lived through the decade, or are living through it now vicariously on Tumblr, look at the artifacts of the era — Dr. Marten boots, Fight Club,  glow sticks, velvet chokers, “Sex and Candy,” plaid flannel and lace — with an intense nostalgia. At the time, the worlds of fashion, nightlife, and music coalesced at New York clubs like Limelight and Tunnel, where the mood was visceral, radical, and kind of psychotic — Michael Alig notwithstanding. To celebrate these moments, especially as RuPaul and Claire Danes are ruling television again, we’ve taken on the very difficult task of picking just twenty of our favorite nineties songs and matching them with an item of current fashion. Cue up the playlist on Spotify, then click through to see the results.

If you don’t have Spotify yet, click here to download it.

The Playlist:

“Smells Like Teen Spirit” - Nirvana

“Celebrity Skin” - Hole

“Bitter Sweet Symphony” - The Verve

“Intergalactic” - Beastie Boys

“Glycerine” - Bush

“Criminal” - Fiona Apple

“Creep” - Radiohead

“Life in Mono” - Mono

“Where Is My Mind?” - Pixies

“I Think I’m Paranoid” - Garbage

“Basket Case” - Green Day

“The Dope Show” - Marilyn Manson

“Possum Kingdom” - The Toadies

“Insane in the Brain” - Cypress Hill

“Killing Me Softly With His Song” - The Fugees

“One Headlight” - Wallflowers

“Sex and Candy” - Marcy Playground

“Gangsta’s Paradise” - Coolio feat. L.V.

“Today” - Smashing Pumpkins

“Lovefool” - The Cardigans

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"Smells Like Teen Spirit" - Nirvana  It’s been called the anthem of its generation, it launched Seattle Grunge into mainstream... "Smells Like Teen Spirit" - Nirvana  It’s been called the anthem of its generation, it launched Seattle Grunge into mainstream music, and it's considered one of the best tracks of all time. Kurt Cobain’s bitter irony and reckless sound also defined fashion for the nineties, with his haphazard combinations that seemed pulled from his bedroom floor. His plaid flannel shirts, in particular, were a nice contrast after all that eighties excess, and Club Monaco's got a ligher version on hand right now, with their Regan Shirt, $120 at Shopbop.
"Celebrity Skin" - Hole  Rolling Stone described the song as a “sonic knockout that make you see all sorts of stars and is acces... "Celebrity Skin" - Hole  Rolling Stone described the song as a “sonic knockout that make you see all sorts of stars and is accessible, fiery and intimate.” Get the same rock-princess vibe with the Bonnie Wet Look Crop Top, $54 at Motel Rocks, and Urban Decay's 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in 1999, $19 at Sephora.
"Bitter Sweet Symphony" - The Verve With its swelling orchestral melody, the one-hit British wonder blew up on the U.S. music scene in ... "Bitter Sweet Symphony" - The Verve With its swelling orchestral melody, the one-hit British wonder blew up on the U.S. music scene in 1997 with a song that remains an indie-gone-mainstream favorite. Pull off a similar high/low vibe with Rachel Zoe's Petra Faux-Fur Coat, $425 at Bergdorf Goodman.
"Intergalactic" - Beastie Boys This Grammy-winning song, along with its award-winning music video, remains one of the best over-the-top... "Intergalactic" - Beastie Boys This Grammy-winning song, along with its award-winning music video, remains one of the best over-the-top, sensory-overload-inducing tracks from the nineties. Get into your own hip-hop orbital with Karl Tuga's Metallic Leather-Paillette Jacket, $810 at Net-a-Porter.
"Glycerine" - Bush  Gavin Rossdale’s gritty voice, layered with electronic guitar and string-quartet instruments, made us believe in g... "Glycerine" - Bush  Gavin Rossdale’s gritty voice, layered with electronic guitar and string-quartet instruments, made us believe in grunge-pop. The song was sensual, yet tough, which makes Dr. Marten's Page 8 Eyelet Velvet Lace-Up Boot, $70 at Infinity Shoes, a good matchup for right now.
"Criminal" - Fiona Apple The sexual prowess and adolescent angst displayed by Fiona Apple in her music video for this song established ... "Criminal" - Fiona Apple The sexual prowess and adolescent angst displayed by Fiona Apple in her music video for this song established her as the unofficial Lolita of the nineties. It also won her a Grammy. This time, go with the Passionata Kiss Me Demi Bra, $62 at Journelle.
"Creep" - Radiohead  It’s the anthem of the outsider, with on-the-edge lyrics, panged vocals, and an ethereal melody that moved the so... "Creep" - Radiohead  It’s the anthem of the outsider, with on-the-edge lyrics, panged vocals, and an ethereal melody that moved the song to the top of the charts. Grunge, but beautiful, just like T by Alexander Wang’s Pale Grey Cropped Pullover, $240 at Barneys New York, and Diane von Furstenberg Sapna Lace up Booties, $378 at Shopbop.
"Life in Mono" - Mono  With its gauzy synth beats, electronic harpsichord, and orchestral sampling, the song feels like rainy grey day... "Life in Mono" - Mono  With its gauzy synth beats, electronic harpsichord, and orchestral sampling, the song feels like rainy grey days, cigarettes, and a little anguish. Pull it off with Alice + Olivia Tatum Velvet Dress, $242 at Cusp.
"Where Is My Mind?" - The Pixies Although written in 1988, this song and its album, Surfer Rosa, were direct influences to Kurt Cobain'... "Where Is My Mind?" - The Pixies Although written in 1988, this song and its album, Surfer Rosa, were direct influences to Kurt Cobain's Smells Like Teen Spirit, and subsequently the 90s grunge sound. The song was featured in 1999 in the closing scene of Fight Club, where the protagonist and his girlfriend, Marla, dressed in a crazy shaggy coat, watch skyscraping financial structures collapse. Catch her edgy look with Zara's Sheepskin Studio Coat, $799 at Zara.
"I Think I'm Paranoid" - Garbage Shirley Manson's distorted, voice-over-warped guitar riffs made being mental seem cool all while sound... "I Think I'm Paranoid" - Garbage Shirley Manson's distorted, voice-over-warped guitar riffs made being mental seem cool all while sounding like a glossed-over version of grunge. Get the same glossy feeling with the Rental Jelly Tote, $85 at Nasty Gal.
"Basket Case" - Green Day  With lyrics about a panic disorder, this mainstream punk-pop hit smacks of black vinyl leather and studs.... "Basket Case" - Green Day  With lyrics about a panic disorder, this mainstream punk-pop hit smacks of black vinyl leather and studs. Head to your local mall — of course — for this Black Silver Spike Choker Collar, $13 at Hot Topic.
"The Dope Show" - Marilyn Manson Manson worked up a cultural frenzy with his shock tactics and predeliction for dark lipstick. Add a si... "The Dope Show" - Marilyn Manson Manson worked up a cultural frenzy with his shock tactics and predeliction for dark lipstick. Add a similar element of wickedness to your look with Fall's plum trend, using Givenchy's Rouge Interdit Satin Lipstick in Black Plum, $30 at Sephora.
"Possum Kingdom" - The Toadies This one is a love ballad so intense that the lyrics make one wonder if it's a song from a vampire or se... "Possum Kingdom" - The Toadies This one is a love ballad so intense that the lyrics make one wonder if it's a song from a vampire or serial killer. Get the sweet-but-edgy mix with No. 21's Shaved Pashmir and Tulle Sweater, $618 at Matches, paired with the McQ by Alexander McQueen's Tartan Pleated Wool Mini Skirt, $885 at Net-A-Porter.
"Insane in the Brain" - Cypress Hill With its record-screeching and catchy rhymes, the smartly sampled track is like every vice you wer... "Insane in the Brain" - Cypress Hill With its record-screeching and catchy rhymes, the smartly sampled track is like every vice you weren't supposed to do and every house party you weren't supposed to attend — along with your trusted across-the-body shoulder bag, like Alexander Wang's Devere Distressed Bag, $1,100 at Opening Ceremony.
"Killing Me Softly With His Song" - The Fugees  With its sitar sampling and Lauryn Hill's voice, this hip-hop gem of a cover just migh... "Killing Me Softly With His Song" - The Fugees  With its sitar sampling and Lauryn Hill's voice, this hip-hop gem of a cover just might be better than the original. Sensual, vulnerable, and poetic, try channeling its vibe through Romwe’s Burgundy Velvet Blazer, $75 at Romwe.
"One Headlight" - Wallflowers  Somehow, the song paints a picture of a ragtag Cinderella, one who embraces the haphazard vintage dress... "One Headlight" - Wallflowers  Somehow, the song paints a picture of a ragtag Cinderella, one who embraces the haphazard vintage dressing of the nineties, or the kind of stuff Gwyneth Paltrow chooses for the red carpet. For that, try A.P.C.’s Rabbit Fur Coat, $1,985 at La Garçonne.
"Sex and Candy" - Marcy Playground  With lyrics like “disco lemonade” and “double-cherry pie,” the rock-pop hit broke records,... "Sex and Candy" - Marcy Playground  With lyrics like “disco lemonade” and “double-cherry pie,” the rock-pop hit broke records, sitting at Billboard’s top Modern Rock spot for fifteen weeks. Rock the irresistible look with Richard Nicoll for Topshop's Mini Hoop Cocktail Dress, $150 at Topshop.
"Gangsta's Paradise" - Coolio feat. L.V.  Gangsta’s Paradise sold 5.7 million copies worldwide, making it one of the best-selli... "Gangsta's Paradise" - Coolio feat. L.V.  Gangsta’s Paradise sold 5.7 million copies worldwide, making it one of the best-selling singles of all time. Reach similar heights in River Island Darice Wedge High Top Sneakers, $70 at ASOS, and Theysken's Theory's Veran Pampas Light Backpack, $695 at Theory.
"Today" - Smashing Pumpkins Distorted guitar and dreamy verses disguised the song's dark subject and quickly catapulted the Smashing Pu... "Today" - Smashing Pumpkins Distorted guitar and dreamy verses disguised the song's dark subject and quickly catapulted the Smashing Pumpkins into the mainstream. Layer the Alexander Wang Stretch-Brocade Soft-Cup Bra Top, $180 at Net-A-Porter, under dresses and sheer tees — like Kirna Zabete for Target's Lace Knit Jacquard Long Sleeve Tee, $25 at Kirna Zabete — or over shirts and tees for a similar look. 
"Lovefool" - The Cardigans  Somehow, its percussive synth beat and girly vocals make it one of those hit songs that’s still genuinely ... "Lovefool" - The Cardigans  Somehow, its percussive synth beat and girly vocals make it one of those hit songs that’s still genuinely fun to listen to. Get its nineties disco-pop feeling with Jeffrey Campbell’s Brazen Platforms, $115 at Solestruck.
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