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make it work
October 26, 2012

Project Runway All Stars Recap: ‘I’m Thinking Stegosaurus’

By Lauren Hoffman

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Photo: Lifetime

I was a bit torn when this season of Project Runway All Stars was announced. It feels a little too soon — the last season of All Stars aired less than a year ago. As a result, this season’s crop of stars feels a little … less sparkly than last season’s does, and I have statistics to back that up. Last season, 69 percent of the All Stars designers finished in the top four (or higher) of their original seasons; this time around, it’s 38 percent. (I’ll just be over here, wearing my pajama jeans, running stats on reality television programs for fun.)

But what’s more, the first season of All Stars felt essential. We were there to right a wrong. I don’t know whether the first season of All Stars was already in the offing (or — God help us all — the auf-ing) before Mondo’s season of Runway was completed; even if it was, the whole affair felt purposeful, like Lifetime knew they needed to win back the faith of a nation.

I’m aware that I am overthinking this. And I’m aware that this will likely be a much more interesting season in the absence of an inevitable winner. And I’m always delighted to see Joanna Coles. Sew So here we go!

Each designer is seen striding purposely toward Parsons, accompanied by sound bites about their hopes for the upcoming season and the things they’ve accomplished since we saw them last. Emilio wins Most Impressive (Tony nomination holla!); Laura wins Most Bitter. Carolyn Murphy greets the designers to run down the season’s prizes, and while she’s wearing a dress with one very Heidi-esque shoulder, she lacks Heidi’s charisma and ease. I’ve wondered a lot about why it is that Heidi can carry off the dual host/judge role so effortlessly, and I think it’s because Heidi Klum does not care what you think of her. At all.

After Carolyn points out that this is the toughest season of All Stars yet (you mean, like, of the two?), it’s off to the roof where Joanna is waiting to introduce the challenge. She tells the designers, “We want to see if you can work together.” Wendy snaps, “No!” and then feels sad when she’s chosen last in a schoolyard-style selection of teammates. Each team is tasked with creating a mini-collection (one look each), and the theme is “attitude.” Teams can choose from a list of provided attitudes, or select their own, which means that the theme is less “attitudes” and more “all adjectives.” Still, none of the teams pick anything good like torpor; instead, one team chooses confident, and the other team chooses bold.

After a quick trip to Mood, it’s straight to work, and before long, it’s time for Joanna’s first critique. We’re treated to some of her signature one-liners — “When I think of lace and black leather, the word that comes to mind is hooker!” — and also to an odd interaction with Ivy, where Joanna says she’d been afraid to meet her because she was “such a bitch” on her season. It’s true — Ivy was awful — but it still seems strange to bring it up. It also seems strange to tell Uli, “I’m thinking stegosaurus” in response to the studs she’s chosen for her dress, but that’s the good sort of strange. Finally, at the designers’ hotel, there’s champagne and Joshua proposes a toast to Wendy for being one of the designers who paved the way in season one. They’ll be cutting each other apart with pinking shears soon, but it’s a nice moment while it lasts.

Finally, it’s off to the runway, where the regular judges (Carolyn, Isaac Mizrahi, and Georgina Chapman) are joined by guest judges Rachel Roy and Mondo. There are some very nice pieces, but all told, it’s an underwhelming runway, particularly for All Stars. Maybe it’s because the choices the two teams made aren’t particularly fresh — Team Bold is centered around a blue and black color story and Team Confident relies on leather and lace. Still, Team Confident is clearly the stronger of the two and takes the win; Anthony Ryan is the overall winner. Team Bold has more than one lackluster look, but it’s out-of-her-sportswear-element Peach who is eliminated.

Click through the slideshow to see all of this week’s looks. Who are you glad to see back, who could you do without, and who are you hoping wins it all? I’m very much Team Uli.

Related

The Fug Girls on the Project Runway All Stars Finale
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1 / 13 Photos
Althea Harper Althea was pretty busy bossing around other designers, but managed to pull a decent look together as well. I have some issues with ... Althea Harper Althea was pretty busy bossing around other designers, but managed to pull a decent look together as well. I have some issues with the use of lace in the back of the dress — as it is, it makes for a more unflattering waistline — but once again Althea proves that she really understands styling, hair, and makeup, which I think many Runway stylists place less of an emphasis on. Althea says that she's bringing a new person to the challenge this time around — out of college, more confident, experienced — I think she's one to watch. Photo: Lifetime
Peach Carr — Eliminated Poor Peach. During judging, she said that the "bold" aspect of her design was that she was using fabrics that s... Peach Carr — Eliminated Poor Peach. During judging, she said that the "bold" aspect of her design was that she was using fabrics that she hadn't worked with since middle school; when she started to continue her explanation, Isaac cut her off and said that she should immediately stop speaking, because the more she talked, the less he liked it. It was all pretty rude (more rude, I think, than any judge's commentary in the entirety of season ten of Runway). It's clear that she was out of her element here, and I do think she deserved to go home, but I wish Isaac had been more respectful. Photo: Lifetime
Uli Herzner When this look came down the runway, Uli said, "I think you see the new Uli, and it's beautiful." I agree with exactly half... Uli Herzner When this look came down the runway, Uli said, "I think you see the new Uli, and it's beautiful." I agree with exactly half of that statement. This is a lovely dress, largely because Uli is one of the best drapers the show has ever seen — she just instinctively gets it. But I’m not sure what about this particular look is new. I’ve seen some of Uli’s work in more recent years and a lot of it is different and some of it is bonkers (mostly good bonkers), but this look is what she’s been showing on Runway for years now. I’m hoping she shows more versatility as the season goes on. Photo: Lifetime
Laura Kathleen The cynic in me wants to know whether Laura had planned to incorporate a peplum before or after Joanna turned up in the workroom w... Laura Kathleen The cynic in me wants to know whether Laura had planned to incorporate a peplum before or after Joanna turned up in the workroom wearing one. The really flow-y trouser — while nicely constructed, particularly given the time constraint — paired with the peplum blouse makes for a semi-unflattering look. The judges didn’t agree with this — they said Laura had the highest scores out of anyone on Team Bold, and that she would've been eligible for the win had her team not lost. I think I'd rank Emilio a bit above her, but I have a noted anti-peplum bias, so take that with a grain of salt. Photo: Lifetime
Emilio Sosa It surprises me a little to see Emilio back for another shot at Runway; it seemed like his second-place finish had soured him on the ... Emilio Sosa It surprises me a little to see Emilio back for another shot at Runway; it seemed like his second-place finish had soured him on the competition for good. That said, I'm very glad he's back — his costume work for Porgy and Bess was really lovely — and his construction skills are strong as ever in this look. The fit is absolutely perfect, and it's stunning on the model, but I'm not completely sure if it could translate to real women — I'm just not sure who it's for. I have "Taylor Swift Teen Choice Awards??" written in the margins of my notes, but that's not exactly a massive customer base. Photo: Lifetime
Wendy Pepper I don't remember much of Wendy's work from her season — crazily, that was almost eight years ago — I mostly just remember her person... Wendy Pepper I don't remember much of Wendy's work from her season — crazily, that was almost eight years ago — I mostly just remember her persona, for better or worse. I'm looking forward to seeing what she can do this season, and I'm hoping she's around for awhile. Having said that, this look felt a little bit too costume-y to me, like it was combination of one part Batman, one part Black Swan, and one part cocktail dress. That's not the worst thing in the world, but it's not particularly appropriate for this challenge, either. Photo: Lifetime
Casanova — Top Three The judges were particularly enamored with the back of Casanova's dress, which was beautifully cut; in particular, the lace ... Casanova — Top Three The judges were particularly enamored with the back of Casanova's dress, which was beautifully cut; in particular, the lace scalloping was flattering on the model and gave the dress look expensive (this particular compliment makes me miss Nina Garcia). Isaac pointed out that the hemline was a bit predictable, and made the refreshing suggestion of keeping it longer rather than going shorter. And while Carolyn called it "very wearable," Mondo said that it was "nothing exciting," even though he liked the tone-on-tone. Photo: Lifetime
Suede Baum — Bottom Three  Suede talked about wanting to create a look that pushed him out of his box and wanting to use bold shapes in his desig... Suede Baum — Bottom Three  Suede talked about wanting to create a look that pushed him out of his box and wanting to use bold shapes in his design, not just the bold color story chosen by his team. Mondo said that all those good ideas put together wound up working against each other and called it sloppy. Isacc liked the skirt and didn't like the top (he suggested a turtleneck); Carolyn liked the top but didn't like the skirt. Georgina criticized the use of breast cups as shoulder pads and said that it was all too much to take in visually. That said, I remember Suede being a little intense in his season, so it was good to see him respond well to criticism, without getting mean or defensive. Photo: Lifetime
Ivy Higa — Top Three Ivy called this "her version of a power suit," and while I rolled my eyes at this at first, this could be an edgie... Ivy Higa — Top Three Ivy called this "her version of a power suit," and while I rolled my eyes at this at first, this could be an edgier alternative to a blazer in the right workplace (and with something non-sheer underneath). Georgina praised the symmetry in the jacket, but both she and Isaac questioned whether leather shorts — or shorts at all — were a good choice. While I agree that the leather shorts were an odd call (even though Mondo loved them), the jacket was one of my favorite pieces this week; I don't remember much about Ivy's work in her original season, but this has me excited to see more. Photo: Lifetime
Anthony Ryan Auld — Winner Anthony called this look clean, fresh, and easy, with an element of surprise, and while I'll point out that there isn’... Anthony Ryan Auld — Winner Anthony called this look clean, fresh, and easy, with an element of surprise, and while I'll point out that there isn’t much ease about a blouse with a sheer back, it's really nicely constructed, and it's nice to see Anthony Ryan get the win. Carolyn liked the day-to-night potential of the look, and Issac said that the pants gave "a whole new life" to the idea of skinny white pants. He also pointed out how ill-fitting the crotch was, which only made me miss Michael Kors more. I'm looking forward to seeing more of Anthony Ryan's work this season — this look wasn't my favorite, but he was eliminated from his original season too early, and I'm hoping he'll do well this time around. Photo: Lifetime
Andrae Gonzalo — Bottom Three Out of the three designers on the bottom, Andrae seemed the most surprised to be there. The judges took a beat afte... Andrae Gonzalo — Bottom Three Out of the three designers on the bottom, Andrae seemed the most surprised to be there. The judges took a beat after he'd explained the look, and then Carolyn said, "I hate to say this but ... I don't get it." Was it a tank top? Was it a skirt? Was it supposed to be making an "X" across the model's body? Andrae answered yes to all three, and then said, "I regret that my intention is ... muffled here." Overall, the judges agreed that it was too complicated — it was impossible to zip the dress and wear it at the same time — but Andrae was able to scrape through on intention alone this time. Photo: Lifetime
Kayne Gillaspie This look didn't do anything to back up Kayne's claims that he's no longer just a pageant dress maker or a costumer. Joanna calle... Kayne Gillaspie This look didn't do anything to back up Kayne's claims that he's no longer just a pageant dress maker or a costumer. Joanna called this look Lady Gaga meets Catwoman, but it's not even proper Lady Gaga — it's like a Lady Gaga Halloween costume from Party City. It was certainly dramatic on the runway and it moved well, but in this particular context, with this team's collection, "dramatic" isn't really a compliment. Isaac's raised eyebrows when this came down the runway spoke volumes. Photo: Lifetime
Joshua McKinley Give Joshua's model credit: she worked this, and on a less-fierce girl, this look would've been a complete mess. If I'm rememberi... Joshua McKinley Give Joshua's model credit: she worked this, and on a less-fierce girl, this look would've been a complete mess. If I'm remembering correctly, Joshua struggled with when and how to edit his looks in his original season, and it looks like that’s an issue here, too. I like the idea of it — edgy, constructed top and loose pants — but there's barely even a top to speak of. Ultimately, it just looks like something the fanciest dancer on MTV's Jock Jams would wear. Photo: Lifetime
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Tags:

  • make it work
  • project runway
  • project runway all stars
  • joanna coles
  • project runway all stars recap
  • isaac mizrahi
  • carolyn murphy
  • georgina chapman
  • mondo guerra
  • rachel roy
  • anthony ryan auld
  • ivy higa
  • althea harper
  • uli herzner
  • kayne gillaspie
  • wendy pepper
  • peach carr
  • suede baum
  • andrae gonzalo
  • emilio sosa
  • joshua mckinley
  • laura kathleen
  • casanova
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