• Intelligencer
  • The Cut
  • Vulture
  • The Strategist
  • Curbed
  • Grub Street
  • Subscribe to the Magazine Give a Gift Subscription Buy Back Issues Current Issue Contents
    Subscribe to New York Magazine
  • Subscribe
  • Profile
    Sign Out
The Cut
  • Style
  • Self
  • Culture
  • Power
Style
  • Fashion
  • Beauty
  • Parties & Red Carpet
  • Fashion Shows
  • Cathy Horyn
  • The Cut Shop
Self
  • Health & Wellness
  • The State of the Uterus
  • Parenting
  • Advice
  • Sex & Relationships
  • Horoscopes
Culture
  • Books
  • Television
  • Movies
  • Music
  • Celebrity
Power
  • Politics
  • Work
  • Money
  • Rebecca Traister
More
  • Latest Stories
  • Video
  • About Us
  • nymag.com
  • New York Magazine
  • Intelligencer
  • Vulture
  • The Cut
  • The Strategist
  • Grub Street
  • Curbed
things that are printed on paper
February 15, 2013

A First Look at Pattern: 100 Fashion Designers, 10 Curators

By Hilary Moss

Share

  • Share
  • Tweet
Photo: Kenzie Burchell

It’s not too difficult to imagine a time when the names Phoebe Philo, Roland Mouret, Haider Ackermann, Olivier Theyskens, and even Raf Simons weren’t included in the global fashion glossary; by Phaidon Press’s account, it was 2005. Then, the publisher asked ten curators (among them: Alexander McQueen, Tim Blanks, and Harriet Quick) to each choose ten designers on the brink of ubiquity. The list of 100, plus sketches, never-before-seen photos, and campaigns, was packaged as the 400-page book Sample. Today brings the release of its sequel, Pattern — a new who’s who of the industry.

For the followup, Phaidon polled Yasmin Sewell; SHOWstudio; Tavi Gevinson; Jop van Bennekom and Gert Jonkers of Fantastic Man; Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen; academic Heather Sproat; Imran Amed of Business of Fashion; An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx of A.F. Vandevorst; Tim Lim, group fashion director of Modern Media in China; and stylist Keegan Singh. “They asked me to pick designers who had only been in business for about five years, so that narrowed it down,” Singh told the Cut. “I based it on my taste and who I like to shoot editorially … It was a back-and-forth process because other curators had picked some of my designers, so then I’d have to pick somebody new.” Singh’s final selections included Fashion Week players (Cushnie et Ochs and Olivier Rousteing), “clean and a little rock-and-roll” jewelry-makers (Gaia Repossi and Dominic Jones), and lesser-known labels (Graeme Armour and Hakaan). 

In Pattern, Singh writes, “Cushnie and Michelle Ochs’s dresses form a kind of second skin on the body,” which Cushnie calls “not easy at all … We fit and re-fit our production samples to ensure we have a good fit for our customers. It’s important for women to feel secure in our clothes.” Asked what’s next for her brand, she said, “We’ve already started thinking about Resort — when you’re first starting a collection, you always think, God, what are we going to do? But there hasn’t been a lack of ideas yet. At least there’s two of us.” She continued, “There’s no real science to it. It’s just a progression of what we’ve been doing and how we’re both feeling … our underlying DNA is very much the same — we still reinvent it every season, but she’s still the same woman.” Perhaps when we talk next, Cushnie will be on the curating side of Phaidon’s threequel.

Click through our slideshow for a preview of Pattern.

View
1 / 12 Photos
Craig Lawrence A/W 2009 Photo: Kenzie Burchell
Holly Fulton Print for the Bird Easting Crystals Dress, S/S 2011 Photo: Courtesy of Holly Fulton
Acne  Sketch, aviator-inspired jacket, printed skirt, capsule collection, A/W 2011 Photo: Courtesy of Acne
Mary Katrantzou Editorial image by Nick Knight in collaboration with Dinos Chapman for Garage magazine, 2011 Photo: SHOWstudio
Marques Almeida Neon yellow and black jeans, A/W 2012 Photo: Sophie Aerts
Joseph Li Pleated jersey apron, S/S 2011 Photo: John Paul Pietrus
Rachel Antonoff Lauren Pantin as a Magical Queen, look book, A/W 2011 Photo: Courtesy of Rachel Antonoff
Iris van Herpen 3-D printed skeleton dress Photo: Michel Zoeter
Cushnie et Ochs Black stretch moiré dress with elastic boning detail, A/W 2011 Photo: Courtesy of Cushnie et Ochs
Jordan Askill Horse wave sculpture, 2010 Photo: Courtesy of Phaidon
Phoebe English Soft acrylic hair crocheted into rubber neckpieces, A/W 2011 Photo: Josh Shinner
Jason Wu Petal degrade strapless dress with pivone petals S/S 2011 Photo: DAN AND CORINA LECCA
1 / 12

Tags:

  • things that are printed on paper
  • pattern
  • books
  • fashion
  • slideshow
  • cushnie et ochs
  • keegan singh
  • phaidon
  • designers
  • More

More Galleries

grammys 2023 Yesterday at 5:11 p.m.
Every Look From the 2023 Grammys Beyoncé, Taylor Swift, Harry Styles, Lizzo, Bad Bunny, Adele, Doja Cat, Jack Harlow, Mary J. Blige, Sam Smith, and more.
By Brooke LaMantia
Jan. 10, 2023
All the Looks From the 2023 Golden Globes  Sheryl Lee Ralph, Jenna Ortega, Jessica Chastain, Julia Garner, Jeremy Allen White, Angela Bassett, and more. 
parties! Sept. 23, 2022
Katie Holmes, Chloë Sevigny, and More of the Bestest Party Pics This Week  Chanel, Mejuri, and more celebrate. 
parties! Sept. 16, 2022
Doja Cat, Lil Nas X, and More of the Bestest Party Pics This Week  Fendi, Frame, and Coach all celebrated NYFW. 
emmys 2022 Sept. 12, 2022
Emmys 2022: All the Red Carpet Looks  Updating: What Hollywood is wearing to the 2022 Primetime Emmy Awards. 
By Olivia Luppino
nyfw spring 2023 Sept. 9, 2022
Gigi Hadid, Chlöe Bailey, and More of the Bestest Party Pics of the Week  Saks Fifth Avenue, Longchamp, and more celebrate the beginning of NYFW. 
rip Sept. 9, 2022
The Queen Sure Did Love to Color-Coordinate  Monochrome for decades. 
red carpet Sept. 6, 2022
The Venice Film Festival Is a Major Fashion Event  Valentino and Gucci and Armani, oh my. 
red carpet June 5, 2022
All the Best Looks at the 2022 MTV Movie and TV Awards  Sydney Sweeney, Vanessa Hudgens, Jay Ellis, and more! 
parties! May 20, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  Harry Styles > everyone! 
parties! May 13, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  Bury me in Dove Cameron’s Saint Sintra skirt. 
parties! May 6, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  Cue the Met Gala after-party FOMO. 
met gala 2022 May 2, 2022
Met Gala 2022: All the Looks [Photos]  Billie Eilish, Kim Kardashian, Michelle Yeoh, Hailey Bieber, Megan Thee Stallion, Cardi B, Blake Lively, and more. 
parties! Apr. 29, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  This one goes to Olivia Rodrigo and her sweater vest. 
parties! Apr. 22, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  “Fuck those Zoom tops.” 
celebrity style Apr. 18, 2022
The Best Looks From Coachella 2022  From Harry Styles’s sparkling Gucci set to Megan Thee Stallion’s metallic bodysuit. 
style Apr. 13, 2022
A Look Inside the New Museum’s Spring Gala  Featuring all the best looks. 
grammys 2022 Apr. 3, 2022
Grammy Awards 2022 Red Carpet: All the Looks  Lady Gaga, Olivia Rodrigo, Lenny Kravitz, Lil Nas X, Billie Eilish, and more. 
oscars 2022 Mar. 28, 2022
How Were The Oscars After Party Looks Better Than The Actual Award Looks?  Finally, some fun. 
oscars 2022 Mar. 27, 2022
All the Looks From the 2022 Oscars Red Carpet  Zendaya, Regina Hall, Timothée Chalamet, Andrew Garfield, Kristen Stewart, Ariana DeBose, and more. 
  • Style
  • Self
  • Culture
  • Power
  • About The Cut
  • About New York Magazine
  • Newsletters
  • Help
  • Contact
  • Press
  • Media Kit
  • We’re Hiring
  • Privacy
  • Terms
  • Ad Choices
  • Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information
  • Accessibility
The Cut is a Vox Media Network. © 2023 Vox Media, LLC. All rights reserved.