“This look is the makeup version of power-dressing,” said makeup artist Val Garland backstage at the Roland Mouret show in Paris. “It’s strong and rather sexy.” The inspiration for the designer was Catherine Deneuve (a regular on fashion week mood boards); however, this wasn’t a typical Belle du Jour moment. Instead, it was her lady vampire character from the eighties flick Hunger that influenced the collection. For her own spin on it, Garland used Nars Black Valley Eye Paint (available next fall) to shape the eyes into a “sexy, nightclub” look. To do this, she first placed a dot of the cream shadow on the inner and outer corners of the eye. Using a blending brush, she diffused the product up toward the inner brow, across the crease, and into the outer edge of the eye. She also dragged the color along the lashline, keeping the eyelid itself bare. The modernity of the makeup look comes through the “black haze” effect around the eye and also with the ultrashiny, berry-red lip gloss (Place Vendome Larger Than Life Lip Gloss) that she dabbed onto the centers of lips.
While Garland was finishing up a model’s face, manicurist Anatole Rainey was patiently gluing on longish, oval-shaped fake nails to her hands. “I was actually just thinking that the nails look like the slit found in the back of a woman’s skirt,” he remarked of the V-shaped paint job. “And I’m using just one coat of Chanel’s Rouge Noir polish so it looks more rouge than noir; it’s very Roland Mouret.”