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mad people
April 8, 2013

Mad Men Fashion Recap: Janie Bryant on Betty’s Brown Dye Job, Henry’s Sweaters, and Harry’s Sideburns

By Charlotte Cowles

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Photo: Michael Yarish/AMC

Mad Men’s sixth season is finally upon us! And what a doozy of a premiere it was, both plot- and clothing-wise. We rounded up the episode’s most exciting fashion moments (Harry’s sideburns! Betty’s hair! Those Hawaiian leis!) and talked to costume designer Janie Bryant about dressing the characters for 1967 and 1968.

There were a lot of crazy costume moments in last night’s episode, but Harry Crane’s was particularly amazing.
Janie Bryant: I always loved his transformation from season one and season two, when he was in short sleeves and bow ties, to becoming Mr. Hollywood. He’s kind of douchey. I always think of his character as a wannabe, and so he’s easily influenced by fashion trends.

And Joan is the same Joan, which is a relief.
I wanted her to have an update with her clothing, because she is a partner at the office and has a new income, but I wanted to keep all of her figure-flattering silhouettes. But we modernized her quite a bit, particularly with the vest and matching skirt, which is a departure from her usual sheath dresses. The skirt was also a bit more A-line. But she’s still Joanie, and she’s still an hourglass.

How did you pick out Megan’s vacation outfits?
I looked at traditional Hawaiian printed maxi dresses, luau dresses, and caftans, that kind of thing. But I wanted Megan to have something different because she is the most fashion-forward character. I actually found a backless halter wrap maxi dress from Ranch Queen Vintage on Etsy, and that’s what she wore. She also wore a vintage bathing suit that I discovered. I wanted her to wear a lot of purple and lavender in Hawaii, because purple was a huge, huge color during this time and so it speaks to her character being very modern and fashionable.

What about those luau dancers?
I designed all of the luau costumes for the dancers and performers, and we had those built. They were all handmade for us. They’re actually belts with leaves affixed to them.

I noticed that a lot of the men wore double-breasted jackets.
Yup, this is the era of the double-breasted jackets. For Roger Sterling, it was a perfect opportunity to show all the changes he went through last season by having him wear that bright new double-breasted jacket. And for him to wear separates instead of a suit is a big step, too.

You were saying that Harry is sort of a douchey dresser, and so is Pete, but not to the same degree.
Pete’s always been a pretty elegant dresser, and his sideburns are a sign of the times. He also wore a matching tie and pocket square in this episode, which is just meant to show how meticulous he is, and how his position in the office has become more authoritative.

What kinds of materials did you research from this era when you were coming up with the costumes?
I always watch a lot of movies and look at magazines and catalogues from that time, like Sears, JC Penney, Spiegel’s, McCall’s, Good Housekeeping, Ladies Home Journal, Holiday magazine, and Look magazine. Old issues of GQ and Esquire are good resources for menswear, also. Then of course I have many, many costume history books.

I noticed that almost all of the women wore pearl earrings.
They always have, but they’re just bigger now!

Let’s talk about Betty’s transition from blonde to brunette.
I always think of Betty as being obsessed with Jackie Kennedy, especially now that she’s the politician’s wife and looking for examples of how to build a good façade. Her new hair color will definitely affect her wardrobe. You can even see when she comes into the kitchen with her new brown hair that she’s in this beautiful jewel-tone tweed suit, which is new for her. She used to wear a lot of pastels and cool tones, so it was fun to experiment with the color change for her.

Do you like her better as a blonde or a brunette?
Oh gosh. As a blonde, I think.

We must discuss Henry Francis’s amazing sweaters.
He really does have extraordinary sweaters. I always imagine Betty buying his sweaters. He’s kind of a mama’s boy in the best way. He totally succumbs to Betty’s tastes. He’s always thinking about work, so when it comes to his clothes, he’s like, “Okay, if this makes you happy, darling, I’ll do it.” I love that about him.

I think that Betty is, in many ways, becoming more and more like Henry’s mom Pauline.
Yes! She and Betty are even wearing dueling furs when they come back from The Nutcracker. Pauline’s costumes really show that she’s stuck in an earlier time. She’s quite old-fashioned, so she’s in those silhouettes of the fifties that you can tell she’s had forever.

Has Peggy gone shopping? Her clothes look more expensive, and polished.
Well she definitely has more money now, and she is really showing more authority and more confidence in her new position. But she’s definitely not fashionable. That’s not Peggy’s priority. She wants to be taken seriously and she’s not a fashion plate — she never has been. That’s not her interest.

I loved Jane’s funeral appearance. That hat!
It’s so beautiful, right? I’d been waiting for a good moment to be able to use that hat. It’s been in her closet for a while. Jane’s costumes are always about being fashionable and having a very rich, rich sensibility. Every time we see that character on the screen, it has to be a “Wow!” moment of a costume that’s rich and beautiful. I mean, that’s what she does all day — she shops, and she’s good at it. She loves beautiful things.

Related

Mad Men Fashion Preview: Don’s Hawaiian Shirt
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1 / 37 Photos
Megan's oily stomach Remember when Lane Pryce tells Joan he can picture her "bouncing around in the sand in an obscene bikini"? This is... Megan's oily stomach Remember when Lane Pryce tells Joan he can picture her "bouncing around in the sand in an obscene bikini"? This is probably what he meant, and hopefully Joan gets her turn in one soon.
Don's lei He makes this getup look masculine, which says a lot.
Megan's shimmy skirt Note her cute shoes with those little ball-shaped heels. 
Megan's pot-smoking bra White and virginal, because it's Don's first time having sex high. Or, as far as Megan knows, at least.
Megan's hippie dalliance If there's one character who's going to embrace the Haight-Ashbury look, it'll be Megan. Photo: Michael Yarish/AMC/AMC... Megan's hippie dalliance If there's one character who's going to embrace the Haight-Ashbury look, it'll be Megan. Photo: Michael Yarish/AMC/AMC Copyright 2012
PFC Jenkins's bachelor night shirt As Jenkins's lighter says, "In life, we often have to do things that are just not our bag." This sho... PFC Jenkins's bachelor night shirt As Jenkins's lighter says, "In life, we often have to do things that are just not our bag." This shouldn't mean he should dress like one, though.
Jenkins's bride That dress is quite beautiful, but those gloves are a recipe for clammy hands if there ever was one.
Sally's Nutcracker dress Appropriate yet very stylish, because teenage Sally is a nutcracker indeed.
Pauline's Nutcracker dress The multiple strands of pearls, the red nails, and the fur. The very picture of Betty's future.
Henry's stay-at-home cardigan A continuation of his fabulous sweaters. Henry's winterwear never disappoints.
Betty's brocade Betty is still chubby, and therefore still dressing herself like a sofa.
Sandy's bow How interesting that both bows — the one on her dress, and the one in her hand — symbolize her power and her innocence. Let Betty's c... Sandy's bow How interesting that both bows — the one on her dress, and the one in her hand — symbolize her power and her innocence. Let Betty's creepy child-rape jokes commence.
Don and Megan's homecoming outfits Megan's feline fur makes several appearances. It's a clear foil for the other furs — on Roger's bed, and on Pa... Don and Megan's homecoming outfits Megan's feline fur makes several appearances. It's a clear foil for the other furs — on Roger's bed, and on Pauline and Betty's bodies — that we see in this episode.
Betty's nightie With its pink bows and billowy silhouette, this nightgown is eerily similar to the dress Sandy was wearing just moments before, m... Betty's nightie With its pink bows and billowy silhouette, this nightgown is eerily similar to the dress Sandy was wearing just moments before, making Betty's rape jokes even weirder.
Betty and Sandy's midnight rendezvous ensembles Betty's fabulous pink peignoir, also known as her very favorite snacking outfit, makes a return f... Betty and Sandy's midnight rendezvous ensembles Betty's fabulous pink peignoir, also known as her very favorite snacking outfit, makes a return from season five. Meanwhile, Sandy's nightie looks quite complex. (Sidenote: Can you believe Betty just ignores Sandy's cigarette? Does this mean Sally's smoking now, too?)
Bert's undies Add a few pounds, subtract some hair, swap out the boxers for tightie whities, and this is what Don's Christmases might look like i... Bert's undies Add a few pounds, subtract some hair, swap out the boxers for tightie whities, and this is what Don's Christmases might look like in a few years.
Peggy's beret And lo, a portrait of youthful cohabitation: Abe is loudly suffering from indigestion while Peggy fields awkward midnight phone cal... Peggy's beret And lo, a portrait of youthful cohabitation: Abe is loudly suffering from indigestion while Peggy fields awkward midnight phone calls from her boss. On a positive note, Peggy's beret is adorable and she's wearing white knee socks, which seem quite novel for her.
Roger's shrink outfit Note his symbolic shedding of layers: His blue jacket is on the ottoman behind him. 
Lawrence's curious sweater We may never meet this rather unconsequential fellow again, but his double-breasted mustard cardigan is glorious.
Bob Benson's introduction He's boyishly handsome and far too eager. Note that he says he went to Wharton, and his tie is Penn red and blue —which... Bob Benson's introduction He's boyishly handsome and far too eager. Note that he says he went to Wharton, and his tie is Penn red and blue —which means he's that kind of guy who wears school colors in adulthood.
Stoned Stan's bushy beard As Don says, "No Stan, YOU look great." And we cannot agree more.
Joan's jewel tones Regal and sumptuous as ever. Photo: Michael Yarish/AMC
Harry's facial hair We were excited for Pete's sideburns, but Harry's really take the cake. And that tie/blazer/scarf combination! What an entran... Harry's facial hair We were excited for Pete's sideburns, but Harry's really take the cake. And that tie/blazer/scarf combination! What an entrance.
Peggy's boss buttons It would appear that Peggy has taken her fancy new salary and gone shopping. The result: businesslike, slightly uptight, and... Peggy's boss buttons It would appear that Peggy has taken her fancy new salary and gone shopping. The result: businesslike, slightly uptight, and polished. The pearl earrings are a nice touch.
Peggy's tan turtleneck In contrast to Don's suntanned skin, Peggy looks extra pasty in this Burberry-esque pattern.
Megan's ribbed turtleneck She looks rather like a kindergarten teacher, perhaps as a nod to their decreasingly sexy relationship.
Sally's sweater The Draper/Francis household is a goldmine of fantastic knitwear. (But just imagine the moths!)
Funerary hats If you think these are good, just wait for ...
Jane's head-puff Jane, we miss you and your everlasting ability to outdress everyone, even in mourning.
Margaret's grown-up outfit Little Margaret, so adult! Or, in Harry's words, "All kinds of trouble."
Mona's bonnet Notice that she's wearing almost the exact same outfit as Margaret, only everything is super-size.
Betty's babushka Dressed in her Waspy headscarf and houndstooth coat, the intrepid Betty braves a hovel near St. Marks to look for Sandy. It's ha... Betty's babushka Dressed in her Waspy headscarf and houndstooth coat, the intrepid Betty braves a hovel near St. Marks to look for Sandy. It's hard to tell whether she's trying to stand out as a confused rich person on purpose, or just so oblivious that she didn't think to dress down a little. This will also be known as her very last day as a blonde! 
Dawn's beautiful new look Perhaps it has something to do with makeup — her skin and eyes look particularly luminous — but Dawn is really striking... Dawn's beautiful new look Perhaps it has something to do with makeup — her skin and eyes look particularly luminous — but Dawn is really striking in this episode. Glad we'll be seeing more of her character this season.
Ted's tuxedo A tux-clad Ted makes a brief appearance in the premiere episode on New Year's Eve. It's an improvement over his usual turtlenecks.
Megan's New Year's outfit A gray suit with a subtle sheen, perfect for lounging and standing on the sofa. These are the first of many pairs of be... Megan's New Year's outfit A gray suit with a subtle sheen, perfect for lounging and standing on the sofa. These are the first of many pairs of bellbottoms we expect to see on Megan this season.
Betty's brunette reveal Not only does she have brown hair, but she's not wearing her usual pastels, either. It's a brand-new Betty! And she looks... Betty's brunette reveal Not only does she have brown hair, but she's not wearing her usual pastels, either. It's a brand-new Betty! And she looks just like Pauline, yikes.
Henry's Christmas sweater Yet another delightful sampling from the Francis household's trove of sweater treasures.
1 / 37

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