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depth of field
May 3, 2013

Janette Beckman on What It Was Like to Photograph the Punk Scene

By Julie Ma

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Photo: Janette Beckman

“There seemed to be no boundaries,” says photographer Janette Beckman, reminiscing about her early days shooting the punk scene. “Punk is an ‘irrepressible attitude.’ It brought an anti-establishment raw freshness to music, art and style. It was about change, the idea that people should question authority and do it for themselves.” 

Beckman did it herself, too, and is most-widely recognized for her work documenting youth culture — capturing both the music legends and their stylish fans — in the world of punk, and then later in the hip-hop scene. She landed a job straight out of college in the late seventies as a photographer for Melody Maker, a UK-based weekly music magazine, and in addition to capturing iconic moments backstage on tour with bands like The Clash, she always turned her Nikon (and later, her Hasselblad) onto the punks attending these shows. “I started to shoot [the fans] because it would be at least as interesting, if not more interesting, than the actual bands, themselves. You could be a fan and the next minute you could be in a band. That’s how it worked.”

Today, Beckman lives in New York City and continues to photograph young subculture. Most recently, she visited Caracas and took photographs of Tuki, the latest dance-centered strain of hip-hop. She’s also been shooting commercial work for brands like Kangol and Ben Sherman. In between those projects, The Cut spoke to her about her favorite punk and hip-hop memories, her thoughts on punk influencing high fashion, and her knack for capturing people in their own element.

You became associated with documenting “Youth Culture” in both hip-hop and punk. When did you first start taking these types of photos?
I think it was more after college, probably when I started working for 
Melody Maker. It was just about the dawn of the punk era. They would send me out to shoot bands and there was also a lot of downtime when shooting with a band. So say you go on tour with a band for three days, and you have five minutes to take a picture of the band. The rest of the time I was going around looking at the fans and the youth culture that surrounded the bands.

You’ve shot so many photos for music magazines. What was it like working for them? 
The
first show I shot, I just walked into a music magazine and I met the editor and she asked, “What are you doing tonight? Want to photograph Siouxsie and the Banshees — so I was like, “Okay!” And off I went. Melody Maker was basically known for covering rock music and I wasn’t really a rock type. I never really liked it! Punk was just starting and I think my whole thing was that I came from this art school background, kind of this rebel art school back in the day. I loved punk, I loved rockabilly, I liked soul music. I liked all kinds of music, but I wasn’t really a rocker. At that time in England, the economy was really bad and that whole “No Future Punk” thing was going on. Kids would come out of school and they couldn’t get jobs. People were rebelling against that.

Did you have a certain punk style?
I wore band t-shirts. And pretty much Levi 501s unless you were going out dancing, which sometimes we’d go to these rockabilly events in a full circle skirt and these vintage stiletto heels. Regularly, probably 501s and sneakers or a Madness t-shirt or whatever band I was into.

What was your shooting style like back then? Were you a shy photographer in the beginning?
I was pretty shy as a person — I was much quieter and I was almost like that kid in
Almost Famous — where I’d be sent on an assignment somewhere and I’d be waiting around going, “Excuse me, Mr. Manager, I need to take my picture for the cover of my magazine.” And they’d be like, “Yeah right, kid. Come back in two days” or whatever. I was pretty shy and I think my style has been pretty much the same in that I’m not that intrusive and aggressive. My style has always been to try and capture the person as they are rather than make them do ridiculous things that they would never do. I hate to sort of say a la Annie Leibovitz, but I don’t do those big organized shoots where you’ve got somebody hanging off a helicopter over Mt. Everest with 5,000 stylists.

The Met Gala’s punk-themed this year. What are your thoughts on punk being linked to high fashion?
I haven’t seen the show, let’s start with that, so it’s hard to criticize it. But they’re coming from a very high-fashion perspective from what I gather. When punk started in the UK, it was a bunch of kids from working class families who could
never afford a Versace suit — they would probably despise that. They were actually just raiding their mom’s closets, going to army stores and buying things from thrift stores, cutting up garbage bags and wearing them as tops. It was the kind of very do-it yourself, make it up as you went along. You didn’t have money, putting everything together and making it work, the whole Doc Martens thing. [The Met Gala] is the antithesis to me of punk. I mean, I totally understand where they’re coming from and I know punk totally affected high fashion, just like Tommy Hilfiger kind of taking a lot out of hip-hop. But both of those cultures came from the street, from working class kids who didn’t have a ton of money. I think the only designer that deserves to be there is Vivienne Westwood.

It’s interesting because there’s always talk of “trickle-down” in fashion, but street culture seems to influence it just as much.
Yeah, I think it comes the other way around. Back in the punk days, in the English punk days, there were so many different styles — there were the mods, skinheads, rockabilly, the ska kids, the two-tone kids, and they all had their own different styles and people mixed up the styles a little bit, but it was often taking working men’s clothing — like suspenders and Doc Martens and mixing them up with other strange things you wouldn’t really wear, like army trousers. Those looks were really made out of economy, I guess, and as a rebellion against that very British things … like the Queen. [
Laughs.]

Could you tell me about your hip-hop years?
In about 1982, punk was kind of on the wane in the UK. It had its best years and I was still working for
Melody Maker and there was a hip-hop concert that had come to town, and it was the very first hip-hop concert that had come to Europe. In that show was Afrika Bambaataa, break-dancers, double-dutch girls, scratchers — it was just amazing. And I went to the concert. It was like this whole renaissance, because it was music, dancing, art, the new thing to take over.  I just happened to come to New York at the end of that year for Christmas and it was just all starting to happen here. It was just amazing though because it was kind of like punk for me. It was on the street and people on the train would be rhyming on the train and the trains were covered in art. I got to take the first pictures of Salt-n-Pepa and soon I became the hip-hop photographer.

Were you dressing in a certain style in your hip-hop days?
I had those big, gold earrings. I loved those earrings. And I had a big gold chain. It was fake. And actually, around 1987-88, when I was doing work for Def Jam, they gave me a Def Jam jacket that I still have. It has my name on it and I’m still wearing it and people stop me on the street asking where I got it.

Related

A Pro Photographer on Shooting Actors vs. Models
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1 / 18 Photos
The Islington Twins in London, 1979 "These two identical twin guys, Chuka and Dubem, were literally standing outside the toilet in the schoo... The Islington Twins in London, 1979 "These two identical twin guys, Chuka and Dubem, were literally standing outside the toilet in the schoolyard. They were so well-dressed to go to school. They later became known as the Islington twins and this picture even got to be in the Victoria and Albert Museum. Photo: Janette Beckman
Joe Strummer in Milan, 1981 "Melody Maker sent me to Milan to photograph The Clash on tour. When I arrived, everybody was out of it because ... Joe Strummer in Milan, 1981 "Melody Maker sent me to Milan to photograph The Clash on tour. When I arrived, everybody was out of it because they were smoking a lot. It was pretty much hash in those days. They were going on stage soon, so I just went up to Joe. He looked at me through those dark glasses, this very intense thing, and he just did that bicep move. When I took this shot, it felt like a lightning bolt went through me." Photo: Janette Beckman
Punk Girls in Hyde Park, London, 1978 "Sid Vicious had just died and thousands of punks turned up and marched all through London and ended u... Punk Girls in Hyde Park, London, 1978 "Sid Vicious had just died and thousands of punks turned up and marched all through London and ended up in Hyde Park. I spotted these two girls and thought they were so fabulous. I just love the fact that these girls have more attitude than any model could ever have. The kilt, band t-shirts, buttons — it just epitomizes the spirit of punk." Photo: Janette Beckman
Adam Ant and Marco in London, 1981 "Adam Ant just happened to be one of the most beautiful punk boys in the world. Obviously, this is before... Adam Ant and Marco in London, 1981 "Adam Ant just happened to be one of the most beautiful punk boys in the world. Obviously, this is before he started wearing all that makeup and went totally pirate. He's got cowboy boots, what looks like leather trousers under a kilt with a leather jacket. It's just great styling and you know no stylist styled him.This was in a parking garage in Soho." Photo: Janette Beckman
Punks walking in Coventry, 1979 "I decided to wander the streets for a bit before a concert and I just shot this kid as he was walking by. H... Punks walking in Coventry, 1979 "I decided to wander the streets for a bit before a concert and I just shot this kid as he was walking by. He looks a little bit suspicious. But how stylish is he? His hair is great and the jacket is very punk. The 'GBH,' I'm assuming, stands for 'Grievous Bodily Harm.'" Photo: Janette Beckman
Tenpole Tudor in Dublin, 1980 "Tenpole Tudor was rockabilly band and I was on a tour with Stiff Records for a few days in Dublin. The guy st... Tenpole Tudor in Dublin, 1980 "Tenpole Tudor was rockabilly band and I was on a tour with Stiff Records for a few days in Dublin. The guy standing in the center, Eddie, was a famous character. They're having this quick cigarette before they have to go do the sound check, so I caught that moment. You can see Eddie has got this attitude going on. He's like, 'Fuck you.'" Photo: Janette Beckman
The Raincoats in London, 1981 "The Raincoats were this all-girl band, and apparently, they were one of Kurt Cobain's favorite bands. I went ... The Raincoats in London, 1981 "The Raincoats were this all-girl band, and apparently, they were one of Kurt Cobain's favorite bands. I went to shoot them at their rehearsal space, but if you look at that picture, you can see that it's a toilet. They were literally in the bathroom practicing. It's just so punk and the place is kind of a wreck." Photo: Janette Beckman
Punks Worlds End, London, 1978 "Worlds End is at the bottom of the King's Road in London, and the punks and skinheads used to gather there o... Punks Worlds End, London, 1978 "Worlds End is at the bottom of the King's Road in London, and the punks and skinheads used to gather there on a Saturday afternoon and get wasted, provided it wasn't piss-pouring rain. They would just hang out, shout at the old ladies going by, annoy people, and maybe go steal stuff from Vivienne Westwood's shop if they felt like it." Photo: Janette Beckman
Paul Weller and Pete Townshend in London, 1980 "Paul Weller always loved Pete Townshend, who was like the first-coming of the mods. This was... Paul Weller and Pete Townshend in London, 1980 "Paul Weller always loved Pete Townshend, who was like the first-coming of the mods. This was the first time they met. They're standing outside the The Marquee Club, where The Jam and The Who probably both played. The headline was 'The Punk and the Mod-father.' Old mod meets new mod." Photo: Janette Beckman
The Go-Go's in Los Angeles, 1983 "I was hanging out with the Go-Go's in LA. There was this place called Tail o' the Pup, which was this hila... The Go-Go's in Los Angeles, 1983 "I was hanging out with the Go-Go's in LA. There was this place called Tail o' the Pup, which was this hilarious hot dog stand shaped like a hot dog. It's the original members, Jane, Margot, Gina, Belinda, and Charlotte, just hanging out and having some hot dogs. It just feel like it's very fresh, early LA punk." Photo: Janette Beckman
Ska Girls, Coventry, 1980 "I was walking along the street at a music festival and I saw a group of girls sitting on a bench. I called out, '... Ska Girls, Coventry, 1980 "I was walking along the street at a music festival and I saw a group of girls sitting on a bench. I called out, 'Hey, can I take your picture?' and they looked at me and they just did that pose, which is actually a pose from The Madness album cover. They were just copying it, but it was perfect." Photo: Janette Beckman
The Mo-dettes and Ramona and Kate in London, 1980 "The Mo-dettes were this girl group. I think they were at a council estate in north London... The Mo-dettes and Ramona and Kate in London, 1980 "The Mo-dettes were this girl group. I think they were at a council estate in north London. I'm not really sure why they were doing that pose. Maybe she was trying to fly and she's pointing at her absolutely fabulous tights. I don't really remember, to be honest." Photo: Janette Beckman
Afrika Bambaataa in Bronx, 1983 "A British magazine asked me to go photograph [Afrika] so I went to the Bronx. I met him there, and the kids... Afrika Bambaataa in Bronx, 1983 "A British magazine asked me to go photograph [Afrika] so I went to the Bronx. I met him there, and the kids were part of Zulu Nation. He's pretty much the godfather of hip-hop. That boombox is really great, of course." Photo: Janette Beckman
B-boys in London, 1982 "This was when the first-ever hip-hop tour came to London. That's actually Shaheem, Grand Mixer DST, and Godfather KC... B-boys in London, 1982 "This was when the first-ever hip-hop tour came to London. That's actually Shaheem, Grand Mixer DST, and Godfather KC. I went to the hotel to meet them and I'd never seen people dressed like this! What they're wearing is so B-boy New York at the time: fur hats, jacket, interesting shoes, total B-boy." Photo: Janette Beckman
Hoyo Maravilla Gang Girls, East LA, 1983 "I was spending the summer in LA and I read an article about these East LA Mexican gangs and I was ... Hoyo Maravilla Gang Girls, East LA, 1983 "I was spending the summer in LA and I read an article about these East LA Mexican gangs and I was just obsessed. I had a box of punk pictures and skinheads from London and I said, 'These are the gangs in London. I want to document you guys to take back to England so I can show the English people.' They'd try to make me buy drugs, try these horse tranquilizers, or ask if I wanted to see their machine guns. It was a new thing every day." Photo: Janette Beckman
Salt-n-Pepa Lower East Side, 1986 "This is probably the first-ever professional photo session that Salt-n-Pepa had. It was just a hot summer... Salt-n-Pepa Lower East Side, 1986 "This is probably the first-ever professional photo session that Salt-n-Pepa had. It was just a hot summer day and we were just popping into delis and getting sodas. They seemed like best friends and ahd great style. They've got the gold chains, hoop earrings, and I think that's a fake Louis Vuitton bag that Pepa has there." Photo: Janette Beckman
Salt-n-Pepa in NYC, 1987 "I shot this for a 12-inch single and it was the first time that I'd actually seen this particular type of styling.... Salt-n-Pepa in NYC, 1987 "I shot this for a 12-inch single and it was the first time that I'd actually seen this particular type of styling. I think Dapper Dan might have made these jackets. They didn't have a stylist. They just turned up in this stuff. This is what they decided to wear, just outrageously fabulous. This stuff is not retouched." Photo: Janette Beckman
Run DMC and Posse in Hollis, Queens, NY, 1984 "I got an assignment from the British style magazine The Face to photograph a new group c... Run DMC and Posse in Hollis, Queens, NY, 1984 "I got an assignment from the British style magazine The Face to photograph a new group called Run DMC so I took the subway  to Hollis where Jam Master Jay met me at the station and we walked over to the street where they lived. It was this leafy suburb with really nice houses. Run DMC were just there hanging out with a couple of friends and they went into this pose. They've got on Kangol hats, Adidas sneakers without laces, Cazal glasses." Photo: Janette Beckman
1 / 18

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