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first looks
July 8, 2013

The Afro Trend: A Photographer Talks Natural Hair

By Charlotte Cowles

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Photo: Michael July

In July 2006, photographer Michael July took a picture of a young couple at a party in Brooklyn. “They were only 20 years old, and both of them had these big round Afros,” he recalled over the phone last week. Inspired by the image, he began documenting more men and women with Afros, and decided later that summer to expand the project into a book, supplementing his photographs with personal anecdotes from his subjects about their hair. Out July 26, Afros: A Celebration of Natural Hair is a 450-page ode to fluffy, natural heads.

Born and raised in Brooklyn’s Clinton Hill, July has worn his own hair in long dreadlocks since the mid-nineties. “But both my parents had Afros, and they were artists, and they exposed me to a lot of museums and Brooklyn culture when I was growing up,” he says, citing visits to the Brooklyn Museum and Brooklyn Academy of Music. He started his career as a music producer, working predominantly with R&B and soul musicians. In the early aughts, he got into deejaying, which led to video. “I basically picked up a camcorder and started documenting all of the culture around me — parties, concerts, shows,” he says. At the encouragement of a friend, he bought an SLR camera and began taking his photography more seriously, educating himself with YouTube videos.

At first, July struggled to find subjects for his book. “When I started, I had to search really hard,” he says. He spent 2006 and 2007 traveling to different U.S. cities — Atlanta, Washington D.C., Philadelphia, and Miami, to name a few — looking for people with Afros. Then he realized more and more of them were right in his backyard. “For the first four years, it was difficult to find people who wore their hair naturally, but then I noticed a Renaissance period, particularly in Brooklyn,” he says. “A lot of them aren’t necessary native New Yorkers, but now here they are, with amazing hair.”

Is it too early to call Afros a trend? “There’s definitely a transition,” he says. “We’re seeing a much broader representation of natural hair that they weren’t seeing about five or six years ago. Particularly in the last three years, I’ve met a lot of people — lawyers, doctors, other professionals — who wear their hair naturally without worrying about it being socially acceptable.”

He cites celebrities like Solange Knowles and Questlove for bringing the look into fashion, as well as growing environmental concerns: “The green movement has made people more socially and personally conscious of what we put into our bodies. People are becoming more aware of the damaging chemicals in hair treatments, and they want to approach their hair in a sustainable way.” Meanwhile, blogs and websites have helped those thinking about “going natural” to find a like-minded community.

In-keeping with his book’s philosophy, July tried to shoot his subjects as naturally as possible, without Photoshop or retouching. Most of the pictures were taken against funky, seventies-themed backdrops, but others had to be shot en plein air because he was traveling or because the subjects couldn’t make it to his studio.

About a year ago, July raised $20,000 through a Kickstarter campaign to print the book — a hefty, full-color, 450-page volume with Afros of all sizes, textures, colors, ages, and origins. “I didn’t discriminate because of color or ethnicity, obviously,” he says. “Asian people and Hispanic people and white people have Afros too.” Was it ever tough to convince people to participate? “Sometimes I’d just give people my card and ask them to get in touch, and they’d write me these really profound things,” he says. “It’s amazing how much someone will tell you when you just ask about their hair.”

Click ahead to see exclusive images from July’s new book; its July 26 release will be celebrated with a book signing and photography exhibit at the Powerhouse Arena in Brooklyn.

For more information about the event and where to buy the book, see here.

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1 / 23 Photos
Terence Nance, Director/Visual Artist/Writer/Musician "Choice? Was it a choice? My mother promoted natural hair among other Afrocentricites ... Terence Nance, Director/Visual Artist/Writer/Musician "Choice? Was it a choice? My mother promoted natural hair among other Afrocentricites in our household. So wearing my hair how I wanted seemed to be the way to go. In 6th grade I decided to try and grow locks by way of braids; that didn't work. Moving away for school presented the possibility of paying people to braid my hair, which was outside the budget. So what you see here is the product of these banal circumstances. All stereotyping isn't so bad. People often assume things about me that are true because of the way I wear my hair. The hair presents a pleasing anomaly, whereby all the negative attention you attract is great for making you feel rebellious. And the positive attention is cool, being that I like the type of people who are attracted to hair like mine. However, there is the tyranny of being exoticised while people are always trying to pet you." Photo: Michael July
Drew Wolke, Student  Photo: Michael July
Aevin Dugas, Giunness World Records 2012 – World’s Largest Afro, Social Worker/Natural Hair Blogger "I wear my hair in a 'Fro because it is ... Aevin Dugas, Giunness World Records 2012 – World’s Largest Afro, Social Worker/Natural Hair Blogger "I wear my hair in a 'Fro because it is how I was born. Meaning, this is how my creator made me. I was not born with straight hair, so why would I permanently alter my hair. It's one thing to change your look, but at the end of the day this is who I am. Naturally me, kinky hair and all. I wouldn't change it for the world!" Photo: Michael July
Reggie Watts, Singer/Musician/Comedian  Photo: Michael July
Anbuley, Afro-electronica Vocalist  Photo: Michael July
Jamila Raegan, Singer/Artist/Model/Performer  Photo: Michael July
Phantom Knoet, Poet/Actress  Photo: Michael July
Jesse Boykins III, Singer/Songwriter  Photo: Michael July
Zewiditu Ruffin, Model/Actress/Designer/Poet/Student  Photo: Michael July
Tiffiny Morris, Account Supervisor/Photographer  Photo: Michael July
Dr. Cornel West, Philosopher/Author/Civil Rights Activist/Actor  Photo: Michael July
Deidre Smalls-Landau, Senior Advertising Executive "I went natural after a bad breakup. I was so upset with myself for being taken in by thi... Deidre Smalls-Landau, Senior Advertising Executive "I went natural after a bad breakup. I was so upset with myself for being taken in by this guy that I wanted a new look. My prior years with permed hair had so much oppression associated with it: Slave to the perming process (3+ hours at a hair salon, ridiculous), slave to perceptions about what I should look like and slave to my own culturally instilled beliefs about what looks good and what's acceptable. So the breakup was a great catalyst because I wanted to be FREE. I went natural because I felt it would be a true expression of who I am and how I wanted to be accepted in the universe. To me, natural hair is a celebration of so much freedom, creativity, empowerment, love and truth. I love it ... and I'm never going back. I'm quite happy being so beautiful and nappy!" Photo: Michael July
Tiffiny Morris, Account Supervisor/Photographer  Photo: Michael July
Steph Wiley, Entrepreneur/Dancer/Choreographer/DJ  Photo: Michael July
Human, Photographer  Photo: Michael July
Ummkhair Davis, Mama/Wife/Educator/Makeup Artist  Photo: Michael July
Yana Bille, Writer/Director/Actress "Why do I wear my hair natural? Because I'm vain and that's a great way to get a lot of attention!"... Yana Bille, Writer/Director/Actress "Why do I wear my hair natural? Because I'm vain and that's a great way to get a lot of attention!" Photo: Michael July
Shakeya "Key" Huggins, Singer/Songwriter/Journalist "My mommie was right, I didn't need a perm. And even though she had one, she w... Shakeya "Key" Huggins, Singer/Songwriter/Journalist "My mommie was right, I didn't need a perm. And even though she had one, she wanted something better for me and my hair. Today I wear my hair natural not because I finally realized she was right, but as a reminder of how much she loved me." Photo: Michael July
Karen Tappin, Owner of a natural hair/body products store & spa   "I decided to go natural when I realized the standard of beauty I... Karen Tappin, Owner of a natural hair/body products store & spa   "I decided to go natural when I realized the standard of beauty I was using was not my own. In wearing my hair natural I discovered self-acceptance, self-love, and self-liberation." Photo: Michael July
Aevin Dugas, Social Worker/Natural Hair Blogger  Photo: Michael July
Tiffiny Morris, Account Supervisor/Photographer  Photo: Michael July
Kristen McCarty, Seamstress/Artist/Henna Tattoo Specialist  Photo: Michael July
Shamicka Benn, Actress/Singer/Dancer & Choreographer  Photo: Michael July
1 / 23

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