“Make sure you put your hand in the hole,” remarked a publicist at Delfina Delettrez’s spring-summer 2015 presentation in Paris yesterday, beckoning toward a mirrored box. Inside were the controls for the robotic hands on display, whose fingers were covered in rings from Delettrez’s latest fine-jewelry offering. Guests waited their turn to play around with the installation, and many commented that Delettrez had once again achieved the near impossible: making fine jewelry a not-so-serious affair (remember last year’s levitating plates?). Party tricks aside, this was the designer’s most delicate offering to date: a collection of dainty diamond and platinum rings — including ones that extend up an entire finger. She spoke to the Cut about the playful presentation, whether she’s designing engagement rings, and the opening of her first London store.
I love what you’ve done with your top! It’s Comme des Garçons, right?
Yes, and I’ve “Delfina-ized” it by adding rings. I really wanted to represent the collection; we’re talking about hands and jewelry.
Let’s talk about the new collection. Are those engagement rings you’ve designed?
You’re the second person who has asked that.
They’re not engagement rings?
I mean, yes, they can be and I guess you’re really engaged since the ring covers your whole finger and you wear four stones instead of one. I wanted to give a classic idea a contemporary take. I started with the shape because I wanted to do something fluid, something that reminded me of nature. I was also inspired by robotic B-movies and Japanese anime from the ‘90s. I think when you go serious — like I have here with diamonds — then you need to have more fun; you have to push the playful element. So I wanted to do an interactive presentation. I like to be innovative in my presentations.
And the stones are all diamonds?
Yes, even the colored ones are diamonds, and I used four different shapes. It’s the first time I’ve worked with platinum as well.
You live in Rome, but you’ve always shown in Paris. Why is that?
For me, Paris is Place Vendôme; it’s the window for fine jewelry. I’m also half French, but I am about to invade London in January with my store opening.
Why did you choose London?
I don’t know. I just always wanted to be on Mount Street in London. There are so many young, talented designers who are opening there.
Are you working on any new collaborations at the moment?
The last thing I did was the perfume bottle [for Furiosa] with Fendi.
What’s it like working with your mum, Silvia Fendi?
I love it! We are telepathic. We can’t lie to each other.
Would you ever be interested in designing ready-to-wear?
No, I would do something else, not clothes. I already know what it will be, but it’s a secret for now!
This interview has been edited and condensed.