Transparent’s costume design is pretty all-around perfect, from Josh (Jay Duplass)’s L.A.-douche shirts emblazoned with palm prints to Ali (Gaby Hoffman’s) chameleon-like style transformations. But perhaps the most standout fashion moment of the Amazon Prime series is the wide array of ‘70s-style caftans worn by Maura (Jeffrey Tambor) as she transitions. With the exception of Liz Taylor during her Richard Burton 2.0 phase, we’ve never seen someone so wedded to this particular garment. As costume designer Marie Schley told MTV Style:
We wanted something that was comfortable but maybe a little bit ambiguous. It’s not the big reveal, so we wanted something that might be just a little bit eccentric. You weren’t necessarily saying, “Oh, she’s transgender” or “She’s a woman.” It was an androgynous thing that Maura might wear around the house while she’s finally being herself in the privacy of her own home. And it was kind of an inspiration for the rest of the season. We put her in a lot of caftans.
While we wait for the next installment, here’s a look back at all of Moppa’s caftans, in all their Mama Cass glory, from Transparent’s first season. (Sadly, a few episodes were free of caftans, but here’s hoping next season will bring a bumper crop.)