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April 10, 2015

The Designer Who Brought Mod to the Masses

By Stephanie Eckardt

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Photo: Ullstein Bild/Getty Images

There’s a new theme every day on It’s Vintage. Read more articles on today’s topic: British “It” Girls.

While runway designers like Courrèges may have pioneered the mod look, Mary Quant gave the style mass appeal. Her designs defined a generation of ‘60s women that she herself was a part of — she was only 21 when she opened up her first store, Bazaar, on Kings Road in London in 1955. Credited with popularizing the miniskirt — which she named after her favorite car, the Mini — Quant designed short frocks and skirts in bright colors and simple shapes, with buttons and white collars that could be bought separately. Even at their initial six inches above the knee, her short hemlines made waves. Rather than cause controversy, Quant was trying to be practical: She told reporters that she wanted women who wore her designs to be able to run to catch the bus.

As her style, called the Chelsea Look, became more popular on the London scene, Quant started dressing a pack of British “It” girls, including, notably, Twiggy. John Lennon even wore one of her 15-guinea hats. With a trendy bowl cut by Vidal Sassoon, Quant became a fashion icon in her own right. She opened up a second store in 1964, launched a lower-priced line called the Ginger Group, and received an OBE from the Queen for her contributions to the fashion industry in 1966. As the ‘60s went on, she moved from the miniskirt to hot pants, and in the next decade branched out to homewares, cosmetics, and even the interior of a limited-edition Mini. Though Quant, now 81, probably wouldn’t wear her go-go hemlines today — “A woman is as young as her knees” was one of her sayings — she’s still got “It”: As part of the Queen’s New Year’s Honours in December, she was officially named a Dame.

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1 / 12 Photos
John Lennon wears a 15-guinea hat designed by Quant while sitting in the London airport with his first wife, Cynthia.  Photo: Keystone/Getty Images
A model in an awning-striped halter top and trousers from one of Quant's spring collections.  Photo: Roger Jackson/Getty Images
Models show off a fall shoe collection for Ginger Group, Quant's side brand. Photo: Frank Barratt/Getty Imges
A model at the launch of Quant's Ginger Group fall 1972 knitwear collection in a "Pearl Star" outfit: a red wool jacket with large embroider... A model at the launch of Quant's Ginger Group fall 1972 knitwear collection in a "Pearl Star" outfit: a red wool jacket with large embroidered sleeves and multicolored buttons. Photo: Mike Lawn/Getty Images
Model Jackie Bowyer in a black oilskin wet-weather outfit of a matching coat and hat with shiny, high-heeled boots. Photo: Central Press/Getty Images
The designer with a group of models at Heathrow Airport, leaving for a continental fashion tour in 1968.  Photo: Express/Getty Images
Quant's denim ankle-length skirt worn by a model in 1972 and accessorized with modish platforms. Photo: Frank Barratt/Getty Images
Two looks from Quant's 1975 spring collection, titled Skindles and Hammersmith Palais. Photo: Frank Barratt/Getty Images
Models at Quant's 1967 presentation in the Carlton Hotel.  Photo: Keystone-France/Getty Images
A 1971 photo shoot on the Thames. Photo: Ullstein Bild/Getty Images
Another shot from that 1971 shoot. Photo: Ullstein Bild/Getty Images
Three models wearing underwear by Quant. Photo: Ullstein Bild/Getty Images
1 / 12

Tags:

  • its vintage
  • british it girls
  • fashions
  • mary quant
  • twiggy
  • john lennon
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