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young talent
April 23, 2015

Hyères Festival 2015: Meet the 20 Short-listed Designers and Photographers

By Alice Cavanagh

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Photo: Filep Motwary/Villa Noailles; Gregoire Alexandre

This weekend marks the 30th anniversary of the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères, France, a competition for young talent that has helped to launch the careers of some of the biggest names in the business — Viktor & Rolf, Anthony Vaccarello, photographer Sølve Sundsbø, and many, many more.

Sundsbø and Vaccarello will be returning to the festival this weekend, this time as jury members, along with Karl Lagerfeld and his creative studio director or “right hand,” Virginie Viard, who is this year’s guest of honor. The Chanel-assembled jury also includes Purple magazine’s Olivier Zahm, Chanel muse and supreme Parisian Caroline de Maigret, Carine Roitfeld, and Princess Caroline of Monaco. 

The jury might be an intimidating lineup for the students (imagine pitching to Karl!), but it will all be worth it: The grand prize for both categories is valued at 15,000 euros, and the fashion winner will also have an opportunity to collaborate and learn from Chanel’s prestigious Métiers d’Art group. In addition to the main prize, Chloé will sponsor an annual award valued at 15,000 euros.

While Hyères — a relatively unknown spot save for the festival’s modernist venue, the remarkable Villa Noailles — gets ready for the influx of crowds, click through the slideshow to learn more about the 20 finalists (half in fashion and half in photography) who come from all over the world.

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Heini-Maria Hynynen & Elena Aarela: Finland, 24 and 22 (Fashion) “We created a story of a boy who lived in the Soviet Union, and has run away... Heini-Maria Hynynen & Elena Aarela: Finland, 24 and 22 (Fashion) “We created a story of a boy who lived in the Soviet Union, and has run away from home, taking his parents clothes with him. He ends up on the streets and is influenced by friends and different subcultures.”
Christina Braun: Germany, 30 (Fashion) Braun believes that fashion should reflect social issues, such as discussions about gender. (Shown here: c... Christina Braun: Germany, 30 (Fashion) Braun believes that fashion should reflect social issues, such as discussions about gender. (Shown here: cotton poplin shirtdress with raw seams, wool trousers, and leather shoes with Plexiglass heels.)
Name: Yiyu Chen, Germany, 28 (Fashion) “I started my process with the question, 'What is a "normal" body?'” Chen says. (Shown here: an ... Name: Yiyu Chen, Germany, 28 (Fashion) “I started my process with the question, 'What is a "normal" body?'” Chen says. (Shown here: an evening dress in wool flannel, embroidery, and crochet.)
Wieke Sinnige, Netherlands, 26 (Fashion) “I work with materials that are mirroring and reflecting, so a depth is suggested that, in reality, does... Wieke Sinnige, Netherlands, 26 (Fashion) “I work with materials that are mirroring and reflecting, so a depth is suggested that, in reality, doesn’t exist,” says Sinnige. At left, a silkscreen-printed woolen coat, printed skirt, hand-pleated with cutouts.
Sophie Herand: France, 27 (Fashion) Sophie has interned for both Bernhard Willhelm and Bouchra Jarrar. Shown here: wool and leather top, wool and... Sophie Herand: France, 27 (Fashion) Sophie has interned for both Bernhard Willhelm and Bouchra Jarrar. Shown here: wool and leather top, wool and cotton shorts, linen rucksack.
Sophie Salekari: Finland, 24 (Fashion) “Bold, confident, and forever young,” says Salekari when asked to describe her work. Shown here, a hand-fl... Sophie Salekari: Finland, 24 (Fashion) “Bold, confident, and forever young,” says Salekari when asked to describe her work. Shown here, a hand-flocked leather mink jacket, jacquard silk top, hand-printed silk-satin dress, wool skirt, mink embroidered with sequins and Swarovski crystals.
Guillem Rodriguez Bernat, Spain (Fashion) “I’m attracted by the new era of men’s fashion, influenced by femininity … so I wanted to play with old... Guillem Rodriguez Bernat, Spain (Fashion) “I’m attracted by the new era of men’s fashion, influenced by femininity … so I wanted to play with old haute couture looks and adapt them for a man,” he says. Shown here: his fitted "bar" jacket in wool, a wool bustier, high-waisted silk trousers, and fox fur belt.
Annelie Schubert, Germany-France, (Fashion) “Simple, clean lines.” Shown here: Schubert's apron-style wool coat with satin finish and straight-le... Annelie Schubert, Germany-France, (Fashion) “Simple, clean lines.” Shown here: Schubert's apron-style wool coat with satin finish and straight-leg wool trousers.
Anna Bornhold: Germany, 33 (Fashion) “Don’t take yourself too seriously, that’s my life motto,” says Anna, whose work features an embroidered T-s... Anna Bornhold: Germany, 33 (Fashion) “Don’t take yourself too seriously, that’s my life motto,” says Anna, whose work features an embroidered T-shirt in silk organza, canvas trousers, and embroidered sneakers.
Elina Maattanen: Finland (Fashion) Maattanen's work, like this knitted sweater, skirt with hand-woven panels, and wool ankle boots, is about “str... Elina Maattanen: Finland (Fashion) Maattanen's work, like this knitted sweater, skirt with hand-woven panels, and wool ankle boots, is about “straggly surfaces that give a sense of [both] calm and primitive chaos.”
David Magnusson, Sweden, 31 (Photography) Magnusson’s series "Purity" features portraits of young girls and their fathers who participa... David Magnusson, Sweden, 31 (Photography) Magnusson’s series "Purity" features portraits of young girls and their fathers who participated in the Purity Balls in the U.S. Fascinated by the concept — young women pledging abstinence before marriage, and their father’s pledge to protect their choices — Magnusson interviewed his subjects, in addition to photographing them. He says that he found that his own thought process evolved throughout the project.
Thomas Rousset, France/Switzerland, 30 (Photography) In his photography, Rousset aims to “offer an ambiguous overlapping of representations and r... Thomas Rousset, France/Switzerland, 30 (Photography) In his photography, Rousset aims to “offer an ambiguous overlapping of representations and realities, a mixture that is constantly flirting with the limits of real life and imagination.”
Wawrzyniec Kolbusz, Poland, 37 (Photography) Wawrzyniec’s latest series deals with doctored war images of Iran.
Sushant Chhabria, India, 27 (Photography) In 2013, Chhabria started collecting portraits of the deceased who were listed in the obituaries. After... Sushant Chhabria, India, 27 (Photography) In 2013, Chhabria started collecting portraits of the deceased who were listed in the obituaries. After he amassed a large collection, he digitally tinkered their facial features and clothing, giving his subjects an entirely new identity. His work deals with the cycle of life and identification.
Sjoerd Knibbeler, Netherlands, 27 (Photography) Sjoerd took up the challenge of photographing the wind and translating themes of aviation, climat... Sjoerd Knibbeler, Netherlands, 27 (Photography) Sjoerd took up the challenge of photographing the wind and translating themes of aviation, climatology, and aerodynamics to his own personal scale. Although his photos look like they have been manipulated, everything about them is, in fact, real.
Polly Tootal, United Kingdom, 36 (Photography) Polly’s work is concerned with landscape photography, often urban spaces on the fringes of civiliz... Polly Tootal, United Kingdom, 36 (Photography) Polly’s work is concerned with landscape photography, often urban spaces on the fringes of civilization; places of transience.
Oezden Yorulmaz, Germany, 37 (Photography) Oezden is the protagonist in his own photographs, a star in a narrative that unfolds over a series of ... Oezden Yorulmaz, Germany, 37 (Photography) Oezden is the protagonist in his own photographs, a star in a narrative that unfolds over a series of stills. He set out to examine the self in Western society.
Jeannie Abert, France, 27 (Photography) Abert’s work is concerned with collage, and she sets out to question the boundaries of photography as a m... Jeannie Abert, France, 27 (Photography) Abert’s work is concerned with collage, and she sets out to question the boundaries of photography as a medium.
Filippo Patrese, Italy, 32 (Photography) With his series "Corrections," Filippo delved into the prolific archives of two photographers ... Filippo Patrese, Italy, 32 (Photography) With his series "Corrections," Filippo delved into the prolific archives of two photographers based in the small town of Emilia in Italy. Filippo then manipulated these images in order to investigate contextual themes such as gender, class, and culture.
Evangelia Kranioti, Greece, 35 (Photography) Since 2005, Evangelia has pursued artistic and anthropologic research, focusing on the life and trav... Evangelia Kranioti, Greece, 35 (Photography) Since 2005, Evangelia has pursued artistic and anthropologic research, focusing on the life and travels of sailors around the world.
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