• Intelligencer
  • The Cut
  • Vulture
  • The Strategist
  • Curbed
  • Grub Street
  • Subscribe to the Magazine Give a Gift Subscription Buy Back Issues Current Issue Contents
    Subscribe to New York Magazine
  • Subscribe
  • Profile
    Sign Out
The Cut
  • Style
  • Self
  • Culture
  • Power
Style
  • Fashion
  • Beauty
  • Parties & Red Carpet
  • Fashion Shows
  • Cathy Horyn
  • The Cut Shop
Self
  • Health & Wellness
  • The State of the Uterus
  • Parenting
  • Advice
  • Sex & Relationships
  • Horoscopes
Culture
  • Books
  • Television
  • Movies
  • Music
  • Celebrity
Power
  • Politics
  • Work
  • Money
  • Rebecca Traister
More
  • Latest Stories
  • Video
  • About Us
  • nymag.com
  • New York Magazine
  • Intelligencer
  • Vulture
  • The Cut
  • The Strategist
  • Grub Street
  • Curbed
museum pieces
May 4, 2015

The Met’s China Show Is Beautiful, But Elusive

By Véronique Hyland

Share

  • Share
  • Tweet
Photo: Wilson Santiago/Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015

Whether it’s meant to or not, the Met Costume Institute’s latest exhibition, “China: Through the Looking Glass,” has a timely theme. Appropriation is in the air: baby hairs and nose rings at Givenchy, Native American headdresses everywhere from Chanel to Coachella, and Katy Perry’s Egyptian- and geisha-themed performances. At the same time, the question of inspiration arises: Amid calls for designers to stay in their cultural lanes, what is appropriate for people to be inspired by? Certainly the world of fashion would be a lot emptier without Galliano’s stunning Asian-inspired dresses for Dior, or YSL’s safari dresses. But what constitutes honoring or celebrating a culture, as opposed to appropriating it? It’s thorny territory, worthy of discussion, and one that I wish the exhibit had tackled more directly at times.

On the question of appropriation, I find myself thinking of the handy definition given by 16-year-old Amandla Stenberg, the Hunger Games actress whose video for a school project went viral. “Appropriation occurs when a style leads to racist stereotypes or generalizations,” she says, adding later, “The line between cultural appropriation and cultural exchange is always going to be blurred.”And the exhibit is a testament to that delicate balance, as well as that blurring.

For this wide-ranging exhibit — nearly three times the size, Costume Institute Curator Andrew Bolton noted, of the Charles James show last year — the Costume Institute worked in concert with Maxwell Hearn, the head of the museum’s Department of Asian Art, and enlisted the great filmmaker Wong Kar-wai as artistic director on a wide-ranging exhibit incorporating fashion, historical objects, and film. It’s an ambitious undertaking, but one that often meanders. The show bills itself as a celebration of Chinese design, and a wealth of beautiful things are indeed on display, but the larger cultural implications are often stripped away. The objects are grouped by their visual affinity and labeled simply. There’s no attempt made to tie in, for example, the Western use of dragon motifs with the harmful “dragon lady” stereotype, or to point out the ways in which the chinoiserie craze co-opted and mis-translated traditional Chinese motifs. With so many brands stepping in to lend marquee pieces, there may have been reluctance to associate those designs with overtly critical commentary. The viewer is left to decide: Is this just a tribute to beautiful craftsmanship, or is something more at stake?

So there is Balenciaga (as in Cristóbal) chinoiserie from 1955, and a Paul Poiret design. More recent offerings include a Ralph Lauren gown with a dragon motif scrolling up the back, a Roberto Cavalli dress with a porcelain pattern, and a yellow Galliano gown for Dior with sequined embroidery featuring Chinese characters. Many of the mannequins wore fanciful headdresses by Stephen Jones — who Bolton calls the” Mad Hatter” of the exhibit — some shaped like bamboo. A Philip Treacy for Alexander McQueen hat, famously worn by Isabella Blow and in the shape of a pagoda, commands awe up close — it is made with a miniature shipbuilder’s precision. In its loving detail, it reads, to me at least, as a tribute.

The film clips include footage of Anna May Wong, the great misunderstood Chinese actress too often reduced to “dragon lady” roles in Hollywood cinema, and of Maggie Cheung in her fabulous cheongsams in Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love. And Kar-wai lends a cinematic eye to the proceedings — the lighting and music drawing one into the show’s contemplative mood. As Bolton told the Cut, “I think that when it comes to China, at least with fashion designers, their first entry is really through film. A lot of their impressions of China are actually formed through filmic references. It was important for us to use them as a bridge, in a way.”

Hearn noted that early Orientalist depictions by Westerners often jumbled together cultures: “You have pashas in turbans mixed up with Chinese [people] in pagodas. In the West, there’s still a tendency to blend these Asian cultures together.” However, he argued, “artists take what they want and leave the rest. They don’t have to understand China in order to make use of these motifs and touchstones for inspiration.” But a lack of understanding is often the downfall of intended tributes.

“There are very direct references between the [art] objects and the fashion,” added Bolton. “Having them side by side” — for example, a dress next to the porcelain vase, that inspired it — “opens up the debate more, and talks about this dialogue between the two cultures that has always existed.” There’s something to be said for addressing these issues head-on — bringing cultural misunderstandings and mistranslations to light. And understandably, the curators wanted to avoid preaching or hand-holding in their approach. As such, the exhibit almost comes in two versions. Those who come to the exhibit to grapple with these issues will find ample material; those who come simply to take in the aesthetic beauty will find what they’re looking for, but they’ll be missing some crucial context.

View
1 / 37 Photos
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening coat, ca. 1925; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brookl... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening coat, ca. 1925; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Robert S. Kilborne, 1958 (2009.300.259)
China: Through the Looking Glass Detail of Festival Robe, Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 19th-century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Anonymous Gift,... China: Through the Looking Glass Detail of Festival Robe, Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 19th-century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Anonymous Gift, 1944 (44.122.2)
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Valentino SpA (Italian, founded 1959), “Shanghai” collection 2013; Courtesy of Valentino SpA Pho... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Valentino SpA (Italian, founded 1959), “Shanghai” collection 2013; Courtesy of Valentino SpA Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Jar with Dragon (Chinese), early 15th-century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Robert E. Tod, 1937 (37.1... China: Through the Looking Glass Jar with Dragon (Chinese), early 15th-century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Robert E. Tod, 1937 (37.191.1) Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Roberto Cavalli (Italian, born 1940), autumn/winter 2005–6; Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli Photo: P... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Roberto Cavalli (Italian, born 1940), autumn/winter 2005–6; Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Court Robe, Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 19th-century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Ellen Peckham, 2011 ... China: Through the Looking Glass Court Robe, Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 19th-century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Ellen Peckham, 2011 (2011.433.2) Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Tom Ford (American, born 1961) for Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (French, founded 1961), autumn/winte... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Tom Ford (American, born 1961) for Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (French, founded 1961), autumn/winter 2004–5; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Yves Saint Laurent, 2005 (2005.325.1)
China: Through the Looking Glass Dress, John Galliano (British, born Gibraltar, 1960) for House of Dior (French, founded 1947), spring/summer 200... China: Through the Looking Glass Dress, John Galliano (British, born Gibraltar, 1960) for House of Dior (French, founded 1947), spring/summer 2003 haute couture; Courtesy of Christian Dior Couture Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art/Hasselblad H5D
China: Through the Looking Glass Film still from Daughter of the Dragon, 1931 Photo: n/a
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Ralph Lauren (American, born 1939), autumn/winter 2011–12; Courtesy of Ralph Lauren Collection P... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Ralph Lauren (American, born 1939), autumn/winter 2011–12; Courtesy of Ralph Lauren Collection Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Oei Huilan (the former Madame Wellington Koo), 1943
China: Through the Looking Glass Chinese Cheongsam, 1932; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mme. Wellington Koo, 1976 (1976.303.1)
China: Through the Looking Glass Film still from The Last Emperor, 1987 Photo: n/a
China: Through the Looking Glass Festival robe worn by Emperor Qianlong, second half of 18th-century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, J... China: Through the Looking Glass Festival robe worn by Emperor Qianlong, second half of 18th-century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Purchase, Joseph Pulitzer Bequest, 1935 (35.84.8) Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Jean Paul Gaultier (French, born 1952), autumn/winter 2001-2 haute couture; Courtesy of Jean Paul... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Jean Paul Gaultier (French, born 1952), autumn/winter 2001-2 haute couture; Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art/Hasselblad H5D
China: Through the Looking Glass 19th-century rubbing from a 10th-century stele describing a sudden illness, a stomach ache. Rubel Collection C-7... China: Through the Looking Glass 19th-century rubbing from a 10th-century stele describing a sudden illness, a stomach ache. Rubel Collection C-74
China: Through the Looking Glass "Quiproquo" cocktail dress, Christian Dior (French, 1905–1957) for House of Dior (French, founded 1947... China: Through the Looking Glass "Quiproquo" cocktail dress, Christian Dior (French, 1905–1957) for House of Dior (French, founded 1947), 1951; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mrs. Byron C. Foy, 1953 (C.I.53.40.38a-d) Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Film Still from In the Mood for Love, 2000; Courtesy of Block 2 Pictures Inc.
China: Through the Looking Glass Dress, John Galliano (British, born Gibraltar, 1960) for House of Dior (French, founded 1947), autumn/winter 199... China: Through the Looking Glass Dress, John Galliano (British, born Gibraltar, 1960) for House of Dior (French, founded 1947), autumn/winter 1997–98; Courtesy of Christian Dior Couture Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art/Hasselblad H5D
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Tom Ford (American, born 1961) for Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (French, founded 1961), autumn/winte... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Tom Ford (American, born 1961) for Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (French, founded 1961), autumn/winter 2004–5; Courtesy of Yves Saint Laurent, Paris Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art/Hasselblad H5D
China: Through the Looking Glass Film still from Limehouse Blues, 1934
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Travis Banton (American 1894-1958), 1934; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan ... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening dress, Travis Banton (American 1894-1958), 1934; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Anna May Wong, 1956 (2009.300.1507) Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Andy Warhol, Mao © 2014 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Artists Rights Society (ARS)... China: Through the Looking Glass Andy Warhol, Mao © 2014 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York Acrylic and silkscreen on canvas
China: Through the Looking Glass Dress, Vivienne Tam (American, born Guangzhou), spring/summer 1995; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Vivi... China: Through the Looking Glass Dress, Vivienne Tam (American, born Guangzhou), spring/summer 1995; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Vivienne Tam, 2004 (2004.521.1) Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art
China: Through the Looking Glass Evening coat, Yves Saint Laurent (French, 1936-2008), autumn/winter 1977-78 haute couture; Courtesy of Fondation... China: Through the Looking Glass Evening coat, Yves Saint Laurent (French, 1936-2008), autumn/winter 1977-78 haute couture; Courtesy of Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art/Hasselblad H5D
China: Through the Looking Glass Ensemble, Yves Saint Laurent (French, 1936-2008), autumn/winter 1977-78 haute couture; Courtesy of Fondation Pie... China: Through the Looking Glass Ensemble, Yves Saint Laurent (French, 1936-2008), autumn/winter 1977-78 haute couture; Courtesy of Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris Photo: Platon/Metropolitan Museum of Art/Hasselblad H5D
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Anna Wintour Costume Center, Imperial China Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography b... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Anna Wintour Costume Center, Imperial China Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Anna Wintour Costume Center, Imperial China Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography b... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Anna Wintour Costume Center, Imperial China Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Astor Forecourt, Anna May Wong Evening dress, John Galliano (British, born Gibra... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Astor Forecourt, Anna May Wong Evening dress, John Galliano (British, born Gibraltar, 1960) for House of Dior (French, founded 1947), autumn/winter 1998–99 haute couture; Courtesy of Christian Dior Couture Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Astor Forecourt, Anna May Wong Ensemble, Paul Smith (British, born 1946), autumn... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Astor Forecourt, Anna May Wong Ensemble, Paul Smith (British, born 1946), autumn/winter 2011-12; Courtesy of Paul Smith Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Douglas Dillon Galleries, Export Silk Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, ... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Douglas Dillon Galleries, Export Silk Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Douglas Dillon Galleries, Chinoiserie Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, ... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Douglas Dillon Galleries, Chinoiserie Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Douglas Dillon Galleries, Chinoiserie Dress, 18th century; The Metropolitan Muse... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Douglas Dillon Galleries, Chinoiserie Dress, 18th century; The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Fédération de la Soirie, 1950 (50.168.2a,b) Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Charlotte C. Weber Galleries, Ancient China Dress, House of Givenchy (French, fo... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Charlotte C. Weber Galleries, Ancient China Dress, House of Givenchy (French, founded 1952), autumn/winter 1997-98 haute couture; Courtesy of Givenchy Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Wuxia Ensemble, Craig Green (Great Britain, born 1986... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Wuxia Ensemble, Craig Green (Great Britain, born 1986), spring-summer 2015; Courtesy of Craig Green Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Wuxia Ensemble, Jean Paul Gaultier (French, born 1952... China: Through the Looking Glass Gallery View Chinese Galleries, Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, Wuxia Ensemble, Jean Paul Gaultier (French, born 1952), autumn/winter 2001-2; Courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier Photo: © Metropolitan Museum of Art 2015, Photography by Wilson Santiago
China: Through the Looking Glass China: Through the Looking Glass Exhibition Catalogue Cover
1 / 37

Tags:

  • costume institute
  • fashions
  • museum pieces
  • china through the looking glass
  • andrew bolton
  • john galliano
  • balenciaga
  • amandla stenberg
  • wong kar-wai
  • More

More Galleries

red carpet June 5, 2022
All the Best Looks at the 2022 MTV Movie and TV Awards  Sydney Sweeney, Vanessa Hudgens, Jay Ellis, and more! 
parties! May 20, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  Harry Styles > everyone! 
parties! May 13, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  Bury me in Dove Cameron’s Saint Sintra skirt. 
parties! May 6, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  Cue the Met Gala after-party FOMO. 
met gala 2022 May 2, 2022
Met Gala 2022: All the Looks [Photos]  Billie Eilish, Kim Kardashian, Michelle Yeoh, Hailey Bieber, Megan Thee Stallion, Cardi B, Blake Lively, and more. 
parties! Apr. 29, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  This one goes to Olivia Rodrigo and her sweater vest. 
parties! Apr. 22, 2022
The Bestest Party Looks of the Week  “Fuck those Zoom tops.” 
celebrity style Apr. 18, 2022
The Best Looks From Coachella 2022  From Harry Styles’s sparkling Gucci set to Megan Thee Stallion’s metallic bodysuit. 
style Apr. 13, 2022
A Look Inside the New Museum’s Spring Gala  Featuring all the best looks. 
grammys 2022 Apr. 3, 2022
Grammy Awards 2022 Red Carpet: All the Looks  Lady Gaga, Olivia Rodrigo, Lenny Kravitz, Lil Nas X, Billie Eilish, and more. 
oscars 2022 Mar. 28, 2022
How Were The Oscars After Party Looks Better Than The Actual Award Looks?  Finally, some fun. 
oscars 2022 Mar. 27, 2022
All the Looks From the 2022 Oscars Red Carpet  Zendaya, Regina Hall, Timothée Chalamet, Andrew Garfield, Kristen Stewart, Ariana DeBose, and more. 
style Mar. 22, 2022
Bridgerton Season 2 Premiere: All the Red-Carpet Looks 
style Mar. 13, 2022
BAFTAs 2022: All the Red-Carpet Looks  Florence Pugh, Daniel Kaluuya, Emma Watson, and more! 
celebrity fashion Mar. 6, 2022
Spirit Awards 2022: All the Red-Carpet Looks  Julia Fox, Andrew Garfield, Kristen Stewart, and more! 
Mar. 1, 2022
All of Rihanna’s Maternity Looks  From belly-baring looks to sexy leather dresses. 
Feb. 27, 2022
SAG Awards 2022: All the Red-Carpet Looks  Selena Gomez, Ariana Debose, Daveed Diggs, and more! 
paris couture week 2022 Jan. 27, 2022
Glenn Martens Wows As Guest Couturier for Gaultier Haute Couture It is a sight to behold.
By Vivian Chuang
Dec. 9, 2021
All the Looks From the And Just Like That … Red Carpet  Sarah Jessica Parker, Billy Eichner, Sara Ramirez, and more. 
style Nov. 29, 2021
Gotham Awards 2021: All the Red-Carpet Looks  Tessa Thompson! Kristen Stewart! And more. 
  • Style
  • Self
  • Culture
  • Power
  • Newsletters
  • About Us
  • Contact
  • Help
  • We’re Hiring
  • Press
  • Privacy
  • Terms
  • Ad Choices
  • Do Not Sell My Info
  • Accessibility
The Cut is a Vox Media Network. © 2022 Vox Media, LLC. All rights reserved.