For his latest women’s collection, Thom Browne took his audience for a stroll around Washington Square in the early part of the 20th century. There were wintry trees, mist, a dirt footpath, and an imaginary character who repurposes men’s clothes into feminine pieces — trousers into a stole, coats into dresses, ties as hats. The household dog into a purse? Well, that truly would be macabre, but Browne does have a dachshund named Hector, and Hector inspired not only the doggy bags (in smooth black calf or wirehaired) but also embroidery motifs.
I met with Browne later in his showroom to ask him to unpack his thought process for just one look. It was a tough call, since I loved many of the styles, in particular a long, sleeveless black dress with a boned white underskirt (it recalled things from Yohji Yamamoto 20 years ago) and a navy jacket that seemed to morph into a long-haired beaver stadium coat with a striped hem. But I settled on a navy pleated cardigan worn over a pleated gray dress.
To me, the pleating suggested folios in a book, but Browne said the effect was based on a pleated skirt turned inside out. However, for this outfit, each pleat of the cashmere jacket required an individual pattern, and then the pieces were cut and sewn together. That’s 140 pieces. And what may not be evident is that the edges of the pleats are finished in tiny gold bullion cord — roughly 80 yards of it. The sleeveless gray dress is also in cashmere, but in a lighter weight.
By the way, I asked Browne about the idea behind the tie hats (the work of the milliner Stephen Jones), and he said he wanted to simplify necklines. Hence collars are rendered in trompe l’oeil, and ties magically float up around the face.
Browne said he found the historical period itself liberating, and may stay on this path for his September show. Smiling, he added, “I had so many thoughts going on that I ran out of time in the end.”
Most Viewed Stories
Trump Considers Terrifying New Policy to Eliminate Transgender Rights
The New Mom Feeling Nostalgic for Her Lap-Dancing Days
It’s Astounding How Many Problems Can Be Solved Just by Waking Up Early
What It’s Like to Be a Baby Nurse for Wealthy Manhattan Families
I Eat Butter Straight
Madame Clairevoyant: Horoscopes for the Week of October 22
Timothée Chalamet Shared a Tender Photo From the Set of Little Women
I Just Got Into Kombucha and Now You Tell Me Probiotics Are Bad?
Elusive ‘Headless Chicken Monster’ Filmed in the Deep Sea
Turns Out Pete Davidson and Ariana Grande Didn’t Do Too Much Wedding Planning
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.