Amandla Stenberg, Kiernan Shipka, and Anna Wintour (in a cheerful sequined ringer tee) were among the celebrities bidding farewell to Fashion Week at Marc Jacobs’s show at the Park Avenue Armory. In a stark white ring with floors so lacquered, they gleamed, Jacobs’s army of models clomped out in giant Bowie-esque creeper boots, clad in oversize Victorian gothwear.
The music: not Joy Division or Bauhaus or even the Nightmare Before Christmas soundtrack, as the clothes might imply, but a single chime played repeatedly on a bell. Jacobs explained, in a note passed out to showgoers, that he was inspired by the Japanese musician Keiji Haino, whose work plays with the notion of ma, or pause — “the haunted spaces between the notes.”
Spaces don’t get much more haunted than this. The show opened with the most dramatic shadows:
The beauty look included marcelled waves, bleached eyebrows, and lips and eyes dripping in the darkest black.
There were Gothic Lolita dresses and satantic sorority sweatshirts. There were furs in shades of purple and green, and St. Marks–in-the-’90s denim jackets bedecked with witchy symbols like bells, moons, and cobwebs:
And outerwear that somehow got more glamorous and evil-seeming as it got bigger:
There was Kendall Jenner looking almost unrecognizable:
And Lady Gaga in an acid-green pussybow, looking fully at home in her massive platforms:
Molly Bair closed out the show in a checkerboard cloak, looking like the Queen of Hearts herself: