People often ask me which shows are my personal favorites, and this season I’d have to say Balenciaga and Chanel, but often it’s the small, obscure labels that leave the deepest impression, like the Eckhaus Latta show at PS1, where the models walked in a tight spiral among the guests and the clothes were simple and inventive. Another designer in that category is Thomas Tait, from London, who this season presented a compact collection in a Paris gallery.
Tait, who started his business in 2010 and was the first recipient of the LVMH Prize, has shown some great collections, strong on tailoring and outerwear, but this one was exceptional. He out-finessed some of the bigger brands with clothes that balanced street appeal with high fashion, craft with wearability. His so-called Jimi Hendrix pants, in bias-cut velvet, end in splashes of fabric and beads over the feet. Another pair of trousers, similar in feel to painter’s pants, has buttons running up the sides. And maybe the standout style in the collection is a pair of jean-cut pants done in a patchwork of six or seven fabrics, all washed or treated in some specific way. They remind me of dungarees that have been patched and handed down; and then recut and repatched and top-stitched a little so that only a trace of the original garment exists.
Tait has been very clever with this collection. There are sublime dresses in plain cream or black silk crêpe with panels, and one in different muted shades of chiffon with a crazily smocked bodice. Coats are the ballast of the line, striking a tough, cool, almost samurai attitude — notably one in black suede and sheer fur, with whip-stitching. You can partially detach the lower part of the coat, at the front, and let the flaps fly.
Most Viewed Stories
Stormy Daniels Didn’t Want to Be Anybody’s Hero
Megyn Kelly Knew What She Was Doing With That Dress
Nicole Kidman Married Tom Cruise for Love — and Got Protection
You Know He Got That Big Dick Energy
Elon Musk and Grimes Took a Cursed Trip to a Pumpkin Patch with His 5 Sons
Powerful Women Talk About Power
Meghan Markle and Prince Harry Make First Appearance Since Baby News
When Asian Women Are Harassed for Marrying Non-Asian Men
This Koala Doesn’t Care That He’s Meeting the Duke and Duchess of Sussex
Chapter 1: Now
The Cut’s Latest Fashion FeaturesCiara's Wedding Dress Was Too Big for the Chapel
To be fair, it was a 13 foot-long dress.You and Rihanna Will Both Want to Invest in Dior’s New Bag
It's got something for everyone.Polo Shirts Have Turned Their Back on Ryan Lochte
Along with his other major sponsors.Ryan Lochte Will No Longer Be Paid to Wear Tiny Bathing Suits
Speedo remains committed to transparency.Laura Brown Is the New Editor-in-Chief of InStyle
After 11 years at Harper’s Bazaar.Tyra Banks Is Going to Teach a Class on Smizing at Stanford
"If I see somebody not paying attention, I’m gonna call on them."This Floating Pier Is the Most Zen Installation Ever
Walking on water in Italy.Nation Is Appalled by Matt Lauer’s Nude Ankles During Ryan Lochte Interview
What’s the opposite of “Jeah”?8 People at the Life of Pablo Pop-up Explain Why Kanye West Is a God
"I mean, Kanye West is just Kanye West. There's not more or less you can say about Kanye West. He's just Mr. West!"A T-shirt Is Enough
Simplicity, versatility, and cool. What more could you want?
She took a perfect pencil dive off a 30-foot yacht.American Apparel Is Being Sued by Former Workers
As the company considers putting itself up for sale.A Gendered History of the Tailored Suit
From Marlon Brando to Coco Chanel.How Zendaya Developed Such Great Style at the Young Age of 19
The star's best looks from Disney to now.Proof That If You’re Chic Enough, a Little Federal Investigation Doesn’t Matter
Is this the best they could do?5,300-Year-Old Mummified Iceman Probably Would’ve Been a Street-Style Star
He had several different looks and was “pretty picky.”J.Crew Has Identified 226 Shades of Pink
Even more than there are shades of gray.Gigi and Bella Hadid Merch Is Now Somehow a Thing That Is Happening
Today in Hadidiana.Gird Your Loins for the Return of Yeezy to New York Fashion Week
The season approaches.This Indie Brand Had a Great Response to Ivanka Trump
When she bought one of their cuffs, they donated the proceeds to the Clinton campaign.