Gird your loins: New York Fashion Week starts tomorrow, meaning it’s time for the Cut’s seasonal feature “One Word, One Shot.” We asked 198 designers to to give us a sneak peek at what we’ll see on the runways for spring–summer 2017 by encapsulating their inspiration in just one phrase and one image. This season, Thom Browne sketched abstract figures, Milly chose a tuxedo-clad, tongue-tied Ken doll, and Gabriela Hearst looked to watermelon pastures. As always, real and imagined locales were key: Coastlines sparked ideas for Tory Burch, the American Southwest inspired Coach, and Slime City spoke to Jeremy Scott.
Click ahead to see exclusive sketches and go behind the scenes with 3.1 Phillip Lim, Zac Posen, Lacoste, Cushnie et Ochs, and many, many more.