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one word one shot
September 6, 2016

198 Designers on Their Spring/Summer 2017 Inspirations

By Catie L'Heureux

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Gird your loins: New York Fashion Week starts tomorrow, meaning it’s time for the Cut’s seasonal feature “One Word, One Shot.” We asked 198 designers to to give us a sneak peek at what we’ll see on the runways for spring–summer 2017 by encapsulating their inspiration in just one phrase and one image. This season, Thom Browne sketched abstract figures, Milly chose a tuxedo-clad, tongue-tied Ken doll, and Gabriela Hearst looked to watermelon pastures. As always, real and imagined locales were key: Coastlines sparked ideas for Tory Burch, the American Southwest inspired Coach, and Slime City spoke to Jeremy Scott.

Click ahead to see exclusive sketches and go behind the scenes with 3.1 Phillip Lim, Zac Posen, Lacoste, Cushnie et Ochs, and many, many more.

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1 / 198 Photos
Tory Burch Coast.
Thom Browne ... I can't go in the water ... I just had my hair done ...
Zac Posen Illusion of transparency. Photo: Copyright 2016. All rights reserved.
Betty and Veronica by Rachel Antonoff Friendship.
Milly TONGUE-TIED.
Hood by Air WENCH.
Tracy Reese Beauty.
Paul Andrew Geometry.
Coach Southwest.
Cushnie et Ochs Elvira Hancock.
Pyer Moss Money problems. Photo: Ken
3.1 Phillip Lim Victorian rodeo.
Jeremy Scott SLIME CITY.
Son Jung Wan NOSTALGIA.
Gypsy Sport Diversity.
Creatures of Comfort Casa Barragan
Tanya Taylor Cha–cha.
M. Martin Getaway.
Claudia Li Dusk/Dawn.
Jill Stuart Chrysalis.
kate spade new york Sensory overload.
Zero + Maria Cornejo Hot house flowers.
Pamella Roland Positano.
Christian Siriano Sun-drenched.
Adeam Shodo (Japanese Calligraphy).
Reem Acra Beauty.
Sachin & Babi On pointe.
WHIT PCH Route 1.
Nicholas K Theeb.
Noon by Noor Modern romance.
Adam Lippes Sharp.
Marissa Webb Checkmate.
Ulla Johnson PAMPAS.
Phelan Unfold; Revolution in the making: Abstract Sculpture by Women, 1947-2016, Hauser and Wirth Gallery. "Untitled (Bodyshells)," Hei... Phelan Unfold; Revolution in the making: Abstract Sculpture by Women, 1947-2016, Hauser and Wirth Gallery. "Untitled (Bodyshells)," Heidi Bucher, 1974.
Rachel Comey Tickler.
Yuna Yang Timeless.
Kaelen Heritage.
Yigal Azrouel Wisdom.
Zimmermann Stranded.
Tibi Sculpted classic.
Area Camouflage.
Chromat Hyperwave.
Nicole Miller Panamania.
Carmen Marc Valvo Innocence.
Tadashi Shoji Transcend.
Lacoste TIMELESS ELEGANCE.
Josie Natori Escapism.
Veronica Beard Freedom.
Libertine BOOK.
Self-Portrait Intricate.
Jil Sander Navy Fresh aristocratic.
Dion Lee KINETIC.
Gabriela Hearst Sweet fruit.
Raquel Allegra TEAMWORK.
Dennis Basso Explorer of life.
Hellessy REFRESH.
Kimora Lee Simmons DREAM.
Tome Optical.
Rebecca Minkoff Cali-Cool.
Scotch & Soda Heavenly creatures.
Banana Republic Suited.
Jonathan Simkhai Complexity.
A Détacher Luridly luminous.
Rosetta Getty Perception.
Brooks Brothers Celebrating the Brooks Brothers House codes and history.
Jenny Packham 31 women.
Rosie Assoulin Summer livin' summer lovin'.
Lela Rose Martini maven.
Barbara Tfank Flirty.
Yeohlee Craft.
Ji Oh Luminous.
Vivienne Tam H-Town.
Sally LaPointe Resilience.
Alice + Olivia Tarot.
Monique Lhuillier Ethereal.
Zang Toi Parisien.
Narciso Rodriguez #shade.
Novis Bold.
KITH KITHLAND.
Delpozo Iridescent light.
Naeem Khan Abstractions.
Bibhu Mohapatra Belle Époque.
KENDALL + KYLIE Symmetric.
Assembly Energy work.
BOSS  David Hockney's brilliance.
Anna Sui Folk-art.
Marchesa Eos.
Theory Urban expedition.
Jody Bell Santorini. Photo: Quincy Dein/EpicStockMedia
Charles Youssef Geometric optimism.
Öhlin/D New Jersey classical. Photo: Chris
Visvim Peerless.
Moderne Nostalgia.
Orla Kiely Mimi Farina.
Cinq à Sept Exoticism. Photo: Taylor Horne 2014
BY.Bonnie Young Freedom.
Alejandra Alonso Rojas Heritage.
Morgane Le Fay Odyssey.
Desigual GLOBAL.
RVN Digital Shibori.
Jonathan Cohen Exploration.
Jeffrey Dodd LAGO.
Julianna Bass Post-apocalyptic dystopian romance.
Misha Collection OPULENCE.
Lee Savage Polynesian.
Adrian Escoto of The Art Institutes Wearable.
Valentina Kova. Voyager. Photo: www.felixwongphoto.com
Cotton Citizen Dye.
Bianca Zidik of The Art Institutes Groovy.
Haus Alkire Exotic alter ego.
Nili Lotan Tel-Aviv-New York.
Lois London Malleable.
Melody Hernandez of The Art Institutes Artistic.
J. Crew Women’s Shape and colour. —Somsack Sikhounmuong, J. Crew women’s designer
Marcel Ostertag Air.
Julissa Arrington of The Art Institutes Confined.
En Noir Death to life.
Mimmy Begazo of The Art Institutes Innovative.
René Mejia of The Art Institutes Romantic.
Band of Outsiders A city L.A. Photo: Only the Best :-))
Monica Vinader Handcrafted.
Telfar Post-prep.
Maria D’Ocon of The Art Institutes Pure.
ACID NYC Sealife.
NOMIA Climbing. Photo: Copyright 2016. All rights reserved.
Saturdays NYC Subjective color.
Made Gold TRIBE.
Wes Gordon A beautiful nonchalance.
Venexiana Empress.
Yandy.com Fantastical.
Oday Shakar Power.
MULHIER SIREN.
PH5 Brushstrokes.
Erin Fetherston Mysticali.
Chris Gelinas Selective history.
Lie Sang Bong Chaekgado.
Olivia B Flame. Photo: Cortez Vernon/Copyright Vernon Photography & Design
NIKISTAVIA Queenlike.
Collina Strada MATTER.
Rubin Singer Celestial.
Samantha Leibowitz New York Bold architecture!
Just In Case PUNK THE EMPIRE.
Supima Design Competition Aureate. —Duson Jasso, Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising
threeASFOUR VIBRATIONS.
Supima Design Competition Jazz & Syncopation. —Jiyeon Lee, Fashion Institute of Technology
Supima Design Competition Juxtapose. —Kara Kroeger, Kent State University
Supima Design Competition Adaptation. —Jacqueline Chen, Parsons
Supima Design Competition Badass. —Jacob Blau, Rhode Island School of Design 
Supima Design Competition Captivating. —Jeffrey Taylor, Savannah College of Art and Design
Taoray Wang Stripes in romance.
Maiyet Time.
Cashmere Song Edelweiss.
Syu Syu Han Mighty.
LU YANG by YANG LU Rules.
Rohitava Banerjee Armorial.
The Blonds PLATINUM.
J. Crew Men’s Unassuming. —Frank Muytjens, J. Crew men’s designer
GEORGINE Emo-chic.
Katty Xiomara MARITIME.
Stephanie Rad Architecture.
Vicky Zhang NESTLE.
KUHO Circus.
CHOCHENG Lana.
Trina Turk Havana.
SUNO Intimate.
Layana Aguilar Lightness.
Blake Hyland Equality.
Berenik Cloudscapes.
Ane Amour SEA.
LRS Restless.
Jasmine Chong Waves. Photo: Copyright 2016. All rights reserved.
OAK Sade O'Connor.
Tosia Modernist tropicalia.
David Michael Elusive.
UAS Collection 01 From Under Armour and Tim Coppens Function. Photo: FPG/Getty Images
KIMMY.J 7696 KARMA.
Club Monaco Men's Multidimensional.
Club Monaco Women's Militorian (Victorian Military).
J. Mendel Sunny-side up, the bright freshness of a perfect spring day.
GREEDILOUS Amusement park.
YOHANIX Defining one’s true self.
Korovilas Pristine.
The Odells Languid.
Heidi Merrick Float.
LoveShackFancy Marseilles floral.
Pam & Gela L.A.