Today at Paris Fashion Week, Saint Laurent showed its first collection since Hedi Slimane’s departure, and new designer Anthony Vaccarello seems to have brought back the Y in YSL in a major way. In fact, the first thing guests saw on arrival were giant, illuminated YSL letters hanging from a crane:
The set was made to look like an unfinished construction site with a concrete runway.
Lou Doillon, Charlotte Gainsbourg, and Jane Birkin had a great time next to Yves Saint Laurent’s longtime business partner (and former romantic partner) Pierre Bergé in the front row. Also there: Anna Wintour, Catherine Baba, and Amber Valletta. Everyone received a short film by Inez and Vinoodh right before the show.
Vaccarello is known for leggy, sexy silhouettes, and his signature style was very much on display. He showed lots of black mini-dresses and skirts, in sensual textures like patent leather and velvet.
The designer’s namesake-brand muse, Anja Rubik, walked in a high-waisted leather mini and sheer blouse. Freda Beja also walked (a rarity).
Slimane’s last show before he left was his most Yves-leaning yet, with decadent ’80s looks that Vaccarello seemed to be quoting here in one-shoulder leather dresses and large, long-tasseled YSL logo earrings.
In a nod to Yves himself, Vaccarello riffed on the classic Le Smoking jacket. Models also wore YSL logo shoes, as well as sexy pumps, heeled sandals, flat moccasin boots, and cool black-sequined socks. The sexy rock-and-roll style and the many logos seemed to suggest that he’ll be honoring the brand’s past as he looks toward its future.