What made 20th-century society ladies so fun to look at was, in part, their seemingly never-ending collection of jewelry. Seriously, were diamonds free back then? The new book 20th Century Jewelry & the Icons of Style, out September 27 from Thames & Hudson, compiles timeless photographs (many by Cecil Beaton) of famed society women like opera singer Maria Callas and the Duchess of Windsor, as well as their extensive jewelry collections.
From the iconic Bulgari snake design to flamingo and dragonfly brooches (so ’50s), the jewels were as colorful as the women who wore them. Click ahead to preview the book and step back in time to the days when jewelry boxes held 47-carat yellow diamonds from Harry Winston.
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This Cartier chimera bangle — carved coral, diamonds, and cabochon emeralds — was ordered in December 1961 by Daisy Fellowes (Paris editor of American... This Cartier chimera bangle — carved coral, diamonds, and cabochon emeralds — was ordered in December 1961 by Daisy Fellowes (Paris editor of American Harper's Bazaar, heiress to the Singer sewing-machine fortune) one year before she died.
Photo: Courtesy Christies
Maharani Sita Devi Sahib of Baroda, pictured with her son at Van Cleef & Arpels in 1960, admires the “Princie” diamond that was named after him. S... Maharani Sita Devi Sahib of Baroda, pictured with her son at Van Cleef & Arpels in 1960, admires the “Princie” diamond that was named after him. She wears her favorite pearls, including a black pearl and diamond bracelet by Cartier, London.
Photo: Courtesy Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
Countess Mona Bismarck owned this antique enamel, pearl, and diamond serpent necklace.
Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s
Daisy Fellowes, photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1941, wears a ruby bead necklace with gold ruby and diamond tassels.
Photo: Courtesy Cecil Beaton Stu...Daisy Fellowes, photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1941, wears a ruby bead necklace with gold ruby and diamond tassels.
Photo: Courtesy Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’s
Two evening bags by Cartier, Paris, from the late 1920s. The top one has a frame set with black and red enamel on a circular-cut diamond ground, with ... Two evening bags by Cartier, Paris, from the late 1920s. The top one has a frame set with black and red enamel on a circular-cut diamond ground, with a similarly decorated handle supporting an onyx, coral, and pearl tassel. The second bag has a frame set with black enamel and circular-cut diamonds; carved, barrel-shaped emerald forms the clasp.
Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s
The Duchess of Windsor wears the Prince of Wales brooch on her egret feather at the Baron Alexis de Redé’s Bal des Têtes in 1957. She sit... The Duchess of Windsor wears the Prince of Wales brooch on her egret feather at the Baron Alexis de Redé’s Bal des Têtes in 1957. She sits with the Duke of Windsor, Princesse Ghislaine de Polignac, and couturier Elsa Schiaparelli. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s
A ruby, emerald, and diamond necklace created by Van Cleef & Arpels for Sita Devi in 1954. The gems came from her own collection.
Photo: Courtesy...A ruby, emerald, and diamond necklace created by Van Cleef & Arpels for Sita Devi in 1954. The gems came from her own collection.
Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s
Countess Mona Bismarck, photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1936, wears an aquamarine parure by Suzanne Belperron.
Photo: Courtesy Cecil Beaton Studio Ar...Countess Mona Bismarck, photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1936, wears an aquamarine parure by Suzanne Belperron.
Photo: Courtesy Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’s
A carved coral, diamond, and emerald brooch in the form of a daisy, by Cartier, from the 1950s.
Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s
Greek-American opera singer Maria Callas wears diamond-and-natural-pearl pendent earrings in their modern setting, in a studio portrait taken by Cecil... Greek-American opera singer Maria Callas wears diamond-and-natural-pearl pendent earrings in their modern setting, in a studio portrait taken by Cecil Beaton in 1957.
Photo: Courtesy Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’s
In the late 1950s, Begum Sultan Muhammad Sha Aga Khan acquired a Bulgari necklace and bracelet in turquoise and diamonds. Pierre Sterlé altered... In the late 1950s, Begum Sultan Muhammad Sha Aga Khan acquired a Bulgari necklace and bracelet in turquoise and diamonds. Pierre Sterlé altered the necklace in the early 1960s to make design shown here, and created matching ear clips. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s
Maria Callas, photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1957, wearing diamond-and-pearl pendent earrings.
Photo: Courtesy Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’...Maria Callas, photographed by Cecil Beaton in 1957, wearing diamond-and-pearl pendent earrings.
Photo: Courtesy Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’s
A dragonfly brooch by Lalique, c. 1900, from the jewelry collection of Her Highness Begum Sultan Muhammad Sha Aga Khan. The wings are set with plique-...A dragonfly brooch by Lalique, c. 1900, from the jewelry collection of Her Highness Begum Sultan Muhammad Sha Aga Khan. The wings are set with plique-à-jour enamel, set on a body made of opals and diamonds. Photo: Courtesy Sotheby’s
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