There are movies you can watch at home without losing much when it comes to the cinematic experience, and then there are movies that demand to be seen on the big screen. Anna Biller’s The Love Witch, filmed in 35mm and packed with dazzling Technicolor visuals, is one of the latter. In this ’60s-style horror/comedy, Elaine (Samantha Robinson) is a narcissistic witch obsessed with finding her happily ever after, no matter whom she has to betray or kill along the way.
Biller, who wrote, directed, and edited the movie, was also the production designer and costumer, which means her fingerprints are on everything from the occult-themed paintings on the walls of Elaine’s apartment to her vintage Gunne Sax dresses. The only clothes in the movie that aren’t vintage or hand-sewn from vintage patterns are Elaine’s panties, which naturally are brand-new.
“All the sewing I do myself,” Biller explained. “I got a little dress mannequin for [Robinson] that was exactly her size. She has kind of model proportions so it was perfect with the mannequin I bought. I didn’t have to pad it; it was perfect. I fitted all the costumes on that so she didn’t really have to do fittings. That made it kind of easy.”
Biller is a self-taught seamstress. “My mother is a fashion designer, so my whole life she was sewing. She was always designing, and she did some of her own sewing, and I just watched her. When I learned, I kind of just learned on my own, and I made some really terrible pieces before I started. I learned through using patterns, and I took a class at UCLA,” she said. (She has a B.A. in art from UCLA and an M.F.A. in art and film from CalArts.)
Although The Love Witch takes some of its cues from the school of Russ Meyer–style exploitation films, it delves into some meaty ideas in terms of love, sex, and gender. Biller’s first film, Viva, in
which she also starred, has the same stylishly swinging soft-core style. “Most movies kind of present female characters in such a simple way without all the complexities. I wanted to put all those complexities in even if it might seem that it isn’t a typical Hollywood script where you have one message and one goal and it’s about one thing. It’s a little bit more complicated, more conflicted than that. It’s about more presenting all of these issues and problems and not necessarily about finding a solution.”
In the end, Biller says, Elaine has “such a horrible personality disorder. She’s really not a likable character. But you can also see how she got that way. It wasn’t her fault. The reason she got that way was because of all the sexism in the culture and the abuse that she’s endured. It’s not totally her fault that she’s that way, but she’s not really a sympathetic character.”
See the costumes — and how Biller made them — in the slideshow below. Oscilloscope Laboratories is releasing The Love Witch in New York on Friday, November 18. (It opened in Los Angeles on Friday, November 11.) For more information on screenings, check out Oscilloscope’s official site.
View
1/18Photos
Anna Biller “That's a vintage piece made by a company called Gunne Sax … They made a lot of those romantic dresses in the '60s and '70s, and I wa... Anna Biller “That's a vintage piece made by a company called Gunne Sax … They made a lot of those romantic dresses in the '60s and '70s, and I was able to find a few for this movie. They were pretty much exactly like the patterns that I was finding, but it was easier to not have to sew everything myself. Also, they have these different kinds of fabrics they don't have anymore. That shade of peach is almost impossible to find now. When I've made things in that shade — because I've made things in peach before, I did another movie in the '70s, and that's a really popular color — I had to dye things to get them that shade of peach because it's not a color you really see anymore.
"That whole Victorian '60s [and] '70s romantic look is something I was really going for in the film in general ... All of the hats in the movie, I just found plain hat forms and trimmed them.” Photo: Richard Foreman
Anna Biller “That's that peach color again that I'm so obsessed with. Trish's outfit was a pantsuit. It was enormous, and I had to basically just... Anna Biller “That's that peach color again that I'm so obsessed with. Trish's outfit was a pantsuit. It was enormous, and I had to basically just remake it from scratch because it was so big, but at least I have the fabric there. I used another vintage pattern of a vest pantsuit thing and remade that, and her blouse is vintage. Then Elaine's dress is also made from a pattern from the '60s."
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “For me, that's a very occult type of color, that robin’s-egg blue color ... I made a lot of different robes for this movie. Many, ma... Anna Biller “For me, that's a very occult type of color, that robin’s-egg blue color ... I made a lot of different robes for this movie. Many, many, many robes. I also used vintage palettes for the robes. This is a silk-chiffon fabric that I used for this robe. I made her two robes in silk chiffon, one in black and one in blue."
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “This [is a] very fetishistic kind of 1960s underwear. This is new; I'm not going to put her in old underwear if I can help it. It's ... Anna Biller “This [is a] very fetishistic kind of 1960s underwear. This is new; I'm not going to put her in old underwear if I can help it. It's like this reproduction lingerie that they're making that's very [fetish-influenced]. I love this idea that she's in this underwear, but she looks so powerful in the photo. She's also got her dagger, and her expression is just to kill. She's this very powerful witch and then she's in this lingerie … It's very aggressive, actually, with the knife, so it's like, 'Come hither, but don't. Don't you dare come one step nearer.' The whole movie is like that. This idea: She's enticing, but she's also saying, ‘Stay away,’ and that's part of her power. She represents this kind of confusing dilemma for men.”
Photo: Chris Ekstein
Anna Biller “I actually made the rug. I worked on it only in the evening while I was watching old movies, but it took me six months of evenings s... Anna Biller “I actually made the rug. I worked on it only in the evening while I was watching old movies, but it took me six months of evenings so it was very time consuming. It's one loop at a time. It's like thousands and thousands and thousands of loops … I do all these drawings and then I try to find the things that are in my drawings. I thought there might be a pentagram rug somewhere out there and of course there wasn't.”
Photo: M. David Mullen
Anna Biller “That bra, I had to get that vintage because they don't make bras like that anymore, with the seam in the middle. That is the best, m... Anna Biller “That bra, I had to get that vintage because they don't make bras like that anymore, with the seam in the middle. That is the best, most flattering style for most women, and they hardly make it. I think I saw recently that they're making them again at Victoria's Secret … [For] the underwear, I had the hardest time finding just a regular, normal pair of white lace panties. We looked everywhere. Finally, we found them at a bridal shop. We couldn't even find it online. It was amazing. Just a pair of simple plain white lace underwear that wasn't a thong. It's almost impossible to find.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “I wanted to make a very classic, black, witchy dress that looks like Elvira or all of those stereotypes we have of what a witch look... Anna Biller “I wanted to make a very classic, black, witchy dress that looks like Elvira or all of those stereotypes we have of what a witch looks like — a long black dress, with long bell sleeves … I used an early '70s Simplicity pattern for that dress ... It was fashionable in the '70s to wear these long dresses all the way to the floor, long sleeves, and a lot of them wouldn't normally be made out of black, they'd be made out of a printed fabric or something more romantic. Of course you can use anything.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “That's a new fabric, probably modeled after a vintage fabric. You can tell it's a new fabric when you touch it and look at it becaus... Anna Biller “That's a new fabric, probably modeled after a vintage fabric. You can tell it's a new fabric when you touch it and look at it because it's kind of a spandex-y fabric; it's got some stretch to it, but I just thought, I have to use that somewhere. That's also an early '70s Simplicity or Butterick pattern that was like the halter top with the pants. They also had shorts, but I thought that would be too much to have her wearing shorts … I also thought the fabric would be great because I knew she was going to have all these color bottles behind her and all these color potions around her and then her outfit picks up all the different colors.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “That's another dress that I made from one of those old patterns ... I think it's a pattern for a wedding dress, and in the original,... Anna Biller “That's another dress that I made from one of those old patterns ... I think it's a pattern for a wedding dress, and in the original, the drawing on the front is white. You'd normally make it out of white lace, but I made it out of this coral. That's another fabric that I found downtown. It's a very vintage-looking cotton paisley, which I thought was really cool. This scene is only on the screen for like three seconds, [but] I thought it was funny that she's just wearing that at home.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “That's another Gunne Sax dress. It’s very similar to the pink one except that it's got a V-neck. Those dresses were so flattering on... Anna Biller “That's another Gunne Sax dress. It’s very similar to the pink one except that it's got a V-neck. Those dresses were so flattering on her … I always tried to have people wearing yellow in this room because it's the sunroom, and these rooms are designed from colors in the Thoth Tarot deck ... There's the feeling of sunshine coming in the window, but then there's also a feeling of sunshine in the outfits.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “I was thinking because she's at his house and he's a bachelor that she's going to find something to wear that's his. It's a man's sh... Anna Biller “I was thinking because she's at his house and he's a bachelor that she's going to find something to wear that's his. It's a man's short robe, and actually his robe that he's wearing is just exactly from the same pattern, it's just bigger. The idea is that they have these matching robes. His was a yellow cotton and hers was a yellow plaid flannel, but they're the same style. On him, I made bottoms for him as well but you can't see them. You never see them; he's always under the covers, but for her robe I thought I’d make a really short one and then it's kind of sexy when she walks around.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “I made all of the Renaissance costume: the headdresses, codpieces, the capes, everything. That was the most work.”
Photo: Richard F...Anna Biller “I made all of the Renaissance costume: the headdresses, codpieces, the capes, everything. That was the most work.”
Photo: Richard Foreman
Anna Biller “Those are the sun colors again because this is the summer-solstice festival. It's all about celebrating the sun. Then there's a back... Anna Biller “Those are the sun colors again because this is the summer-solstice festival. It's all about celebrating the sun. Then there's a backdrop in back with the sun. All these costumes were made out of silk. The crowns are made out of cardboard. It's all very handmade … There's very much a tarot-card influence on these as well. They were kind of Renaissance, but they're also more medieval … [like] figures you see on tarot cards from 15th-century Italy.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “I worked exclusively just on the Renaissance costumes for over a year. That was my full-time thing that I did. There were so many pi... Anna Biller “I worked exclusively just on the Renaissance costumes for over a year. That was my full-time thing that I did. There were so many pieces involved. I really didn't think it would take me that long. Everything's lined, the fabric had to be washed, the hems are so, so, so, so wide, there's trim involved. Some of the pieces — there'd be an under tunic, an over tunic, a cape, the headdress, [and a] codpiece. It was very time-consuming.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “These costumes are like 100 years later [in] time than the other costumes [in this scene] because I wanted them to be more typically... Anna Biller “These costumes are like 100 years later [in] time than the other costumes [in this scene] because I wanted them to be more typically fairy-tale-like. These are more like the 16th century. They were inspired by the movie Peau d'Âne, or in English it's called Donkey Skin, by Jacques Demy. Those costumes were insane, but it's referencing that movie … Her dress actually came from a Butterick pattern, believe it or not … Most of the Renaissance costumes, I had to make the patterns. I would blow them up from old books that have old patterns in them, but they're ornate scale, where you have to blow them up on a grid.” Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “It feels like they're these weird, blonde, innocent girls that are being inducted into a cult, and it feels kind of scary in a way b... Anna Biller “It feels like they're these weird, blonde, innocent girls that are being inducted into a cult, and it feels kind of scary in a way because they look so innocent. They're so pure in their white linen dresses, and they're just going to be taught all these nasty witchy things … That's Irish linen. Washed. You always have to wash linen to make it soft.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “[This is when] Trish is dressing like Elaine. It's funny because she goes from this very drab rose-pink terry-cloth robe to this sil... Anna Biller “[This is when] Trish is dressing like Elaine. It's funny because she goes from this very drab rose-pink terry-cloth robe to this silk ostrich feather robe … And then you get to see that actually she's kind of sexy in her underwear and stuff. I like the idea of a character you think of as the Plain Jane [who] is actually not so plain. She's actually quite sexy.”
Photo: Steve Dietl
Anna Biller “This is where you can see some of the tearoom ladies. It's very Stepford Wives here. This is the second tearoom scene where you can ... Anna Biller “This is where you can see some of the tearoom ladies. It's very Stepford Wives here. This is the second tearoom scene where you can see that the characters are in black and white. Trish is in mourning, and Elaine is about to become a bride. It's come full circle from the beginning where Trish was married and Elaine was single. Now we're seeing Trish has lost her husband, and Elaine is going to be a bride. This is because of all of Elaine's destruction ... Rather than being dressed in the same colors, now they're dressed in opposite colors.”
Photo: Richard Foreman; Jr.
This email will be used to sign into all New York sites. By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Policy and to receive email correspondence from us.
Password must be at least 8 characters and contain:
Lower case letters (a-z)
Upper case letters (A-Z)
Numbers (0-9)
Special Characters (!@#$%^&*)
This password will be used to sign into all New York sites. By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Policy and to receive email correspondence from us.
You’re in!
As part of your account, you’ll receive occasional updates and offers from New York, which you can opt out of anytime.
or
Already a subscriber?
What is your email?
This email will be used to sign into all New York sites. By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Policy and to receive email correspondence from us.
Password must be at least 8 characters and contain:
Lower case letters (a-z)
Upper case letters (A-Z)
Numbers (0-9)
Special Characters (!@#$%^&*)
This password will be used to sign into all New York sites. By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Policy and to receive email correspondence from us.
You’re in!
As part of your account, you’ll receive occasional updates and offers from New York, which you can opt out of anytime.