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Gucci Was a Postapocalyptic Playground This Season

Gucci Fall 2017. Photo: Venturelli/WireImage

“What are we going to do with all this future?” Gucci’s show notes asked this season. It’s a timely question, as we all hover on the precipice of … well, we hardly know what. Alessandro Michele’s way of answering was to delve into the greatest fashion hits of the past, with a collection that felt like a postapocalyptic dress-up party where everyone was decked out in the detritus of past fashion moments.

In his show notes, Michele referenced the Ouroboros, the ancient Egyptian symbol of a snake eating its own tail: Everything old is new again. Fashion furiously digests and regurgitates, and why bother to pretend otherwise? So there were, for example, Finzi-Continis sweater sets and tweeds, Art Deco gowns, Wild West boots, and geisha silks and parasols, all mingled together in what Michele termed his “alchemist’s garden.”

Photo: Jacopo Raule/Getty Images

Michele stoked Illuminati comparisons with a huge, purple pyramid set, meant to evoke a greenhouse — topped with a rooster weather vane. The models walked through glass passageways. In the audience were Florence Welch, A$AP Rocky, Alexa Chung, Hari Nef, Soko, and none other than Tom Hiddleston, who’s presumably in Milan to refine his Bolognese recipe.

Photo: Venturelli/WireImage

This season marked Gucci’s first co-ed show, but Michele maintained his androgynous approach to dressing. Both men and women were clad in glittering body stockings, with one male model wearing a stomach-exposing glitter onesie decorated with tigers.

And in keeping with his reputation as an accessories wiz, Michele didn’t stint on the extras: knitted snoods, oversized nose rings, skewed Peggy Guggenheim glasses, and huge, boxer-style belts. He showed Gucci-logo tennis sweatbands that would make Richie Tenenbaum eager for an upgrade. He also played on the logo — as he’s been known to do, such as with his GucciGhost collaboration — with a Gucci T-shirt that was scrawled with the words “Common Sense Is Not That Common,” in the artist Coco Capitán’s handwriting. But uncommon clothes? Those were not in short supply.

Gucci Was a Postapocalyptic Playground This Season