Miuccia Prada invited us all to curl up with her this season — literally. Some of the seats at her fall show, held at Prada headquarters in Milan, were fully made beds stacked with fuzzy pillows and name cards. The set nodded to a theme of comfort and coziness that would dominate the collection — what’s Italian for hygge? Walls collaged with newspaper clippings, photo-booth strips and pinup-style portraits added to the snug, teenage-bedroom vibe.
While so many of her cohorts this season have been pushing ’80s glitz, the designer swam upstream and leaned into the crafty, homespun side of the ’70s this season. She focused on pieces like beaded, embroidered cardigans and folksy shell necklaces that felt like precious vintage finds. As always, she opted for zany pairings, like the climate-change-friendly combo of a jacket worn over a crocheted bra top and accessorized with a circle scarf, or filmy flapper dresses worn with ostrich-feather hoods and moccasins. And as she did last season, she heaped on colorful feather trims in sherbet hues. And those aforementioned pinup-style illustrations found their way onto some of the looks as well.
But amid all the eccentricity, there was simplicity to be had, and great individual pieces that wouldn’t require Iris Apfel–level chops to pull off. One of the standout looks, on Lindsey Wixson, was an unadorned red dress with an oversize flounce. Worn with a kitten heel, it conveyed the kind of intelligent sexiness Prada has built a career on.