In a sunlit downtown loft with exposed brick walls, Pierpaolo Piccioli showed his most relaxed collection to date for Valentino, and his first solo cruise collection since he took the reins. Despite an all-star front row, which included Maggie Gyllenhaal, Marisa Tomei, Christina Ricci, Zandra Rhodes, and Helena Christensen, the show eschewed the more elaborate productions of other luxury brands that have shown this resort season. (Vuitton staged theirs at an I. M. Pei–designed museum in Kyoto; Dior at a pop-up ranch in Calabasas).
Relaxed shapes dominated the offerings, with hooded pullovers, exaggerated wide-leg denim, track pants, and jersey-style tank dresses with lace inserts that swooshed down the runway. For a brand known for elaborate, embroidered gowns and eveningwear, the sportier vibe was a refreshing pivot — particularly a simple, languid gown of hot-pink velvet that seemed to float down the runway in a dreamy trance. Striped, furry, sneaker-boot hybrids and flat slides made for a more day-to-day look, while white athletic socks were styled with strappy heels to really solidify the sporty look.
The Valentino-clad, star-filled front row watched as a brilliantly hued collection sauntered past. Deep jade green, bold red, lilac leather, and military drab were punctuated by hot pink and sunny yellow. Each model wore silver earrings, some mismatched, some with turquoise-beaded details. In a small love letter to downtown New York hip-hop style, some of the models carried tiny, heart-shaped bags.