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gallery
October 27, 2017

Revisit Ebony’s Historic Celebration of Black Women

By Shannon Barbour

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Photo: Courtesy Johnson Publishing Comp

In 1958, to celebrate and represent black women in the fashion industry, Ebony and Jet magazine founder Eunice Johnson hosted the first Ebony Fashion Fair. For the next 50 years the groundbreaking fashion show traveled to cities throughout the U.S., Canada, and the Caribbean as both a runway spectacle and a charity event. It raised $55 million in total for African-American charities such as the United Negro College Fund. The fair gave the black community a place to celebrate and aspire to new luxury styles, as well as much-needed representation in the fashion world.

Johnson cast black models in open auditions and traveled to Europe to purchase clothing for the shows. She “had to ‘beg, persuade and threaten’ European designers to sell high fashion to a black woman,” NPR noted, quoting her husband John H. Johnson’s memoir. Johnson ultimately collected 8,000 outfits — an incredible collection of fashion by black designers and couturiers like Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior, and Givenchy.

Forty looks are featured in the ongoing, traveling exhibition “Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair,” which opens at the North Carolina Museum of Art this weekend with a visit from André Leon Talley. The Vogue contributing editor will speak this Sunday at the museum and share memories and behind-the-scenes stories about the fair. The exhibition’s photographs are worth a revisit — check out haute couture and evening dresses in the slideshow ahead.

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1 / 11 Photos
Eunice Johnson at Work, 1970. Photo: Chicago History Museum
Patrick Kelly, “I Love Fashion Scandal” Evening Dress, Special Order, Fall/Winter 1986, Wool Knit and Plastic Buttons, Appeared in Fashion Scandal; &c... Patrick Kelly, “I Love Fashion Scandal” Evening Dress, Special Order, Fall/Winter 1986, Wool Knit and Plastic Buttons, Appeared in Fashion Scandal; © 2013 Chicago Historical Society. Photo: Chicago History Museum
Givenchy by Alexander McQueen, Evening Dress, Haute Couture, Fall/Winter 1997–98, Synthetic Raffia Mounted on Silk Gauze, Appeared in The Jazz Age of ... Givenchy by Alexander McQueen, Evening Dress, Haute Couture, Fall/Winter 1997–98, Synthetic Raffia Mounted on Silk Gauze, Appeared in The Jazz Age of Fashions.
Henry Jackson, Ball Gown, Special Order, 2005, West African Woven Cotton, Synthetic Tulle, Appeared in Stylishly Hot; © 2013 Chicago Historical S... Henry Jackson, Ball Gown, Special Order, 2005, West African Woven Cotton, Synthetic Tulle, Appeared in Stylishly Hot; © 2013 Chicago Historical Society.
Jean Louis Scherrer, Day Ensemble, Haute Couture, Fall/Winter 2000–01, Fox, Goat, Mink, Persian Lamb, and Leather, Appeared in Fashion Sensation. Pho... Jean Louis Scherrer, Day Ensemble, Haute Couture, Fall/Winter 2000–01, Fox, Goat, Mink, Persian Lamb, and Leather, Appeared in Fashion Sensation. Photo: Courtesy Johnson Publishing Comp
Hanae Mori, Evening Ensemble, Haute Couture, Fall/Winter 2001–02, Corded Silk, Gold Leaf, Silk Satin, Metallic Lace, and Chinchilla, Appeared in Chang... Hanae Mori, Evening Ensemble, Haute Couture, Fall/Winter 2001–02, Corded Silk, Gold Leaf, Silk Satin, Metallic Lace, and Chinchilla, Appeared in Changing Trends of Fashion; © 2013 Chicago Historical Society. Photo: Chicago History Museum
Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld, Evening Dress, Ready-to-Wear, Fall/Winter 1983–84, Acetate/Rayon Blend, Glass Beads and Rhinestones, and Plastic Sequi... Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld, Evening Dress, Ready-to-Wear, Fall/Winter 1983–84, Acetate/Rayon Blend, Glass Beads and Rhinestones, and Plastic Sequins, Appeared in Fashion Extravaganza; © 2013 Chicago Historical Society. Photo: Chicago History Museum
Fabrice, Cocktail Dress and Men’s Coordinating Dress Shirt, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 1990, Silk Crepe and Glass Beads, Appeared in Freedom Explosi... Fabrice, Cocktail Dress and Men’s Coordinating Dress Shirt, Ready-to-Wear, Spring/Summer 1990, Silk Crepe and Glass Beads, Appeared in Freedom Explosion; © 2013 Chicago Historical Society.
Krizia, Jumpsuit, Haute Couture, Fall/Winter 1981–82, Silk Taffeta and Satin, Appeared in The Look of Elegance; © 2013 Chicago Historical Society... Krizia, Jumpsuit, Haute Couture, Fall/Winter 1981–82, Silk Taffeta and Satin, Appeared in The Look of Elegance; © 2013 Chicago Historical Society. Photo: Chicago History Museum
Vivienne Westwood, Ball Gown, Special Order, Fall/Winter 2002–03, Silk Ribbon Taffeta with Hand-Silkscreened Print, Appeared in Simply Spectacular.
Tilmann Grawe, Cocktail Dress, Special Order, Fall/Winter 2003–04. Silk Chiné Taffeta, Horn, Plastic and Glass Beads, Horsehair Tubing, and Pla... Tilmann Grawe, Cocktail Dress, Special Order, Fall/Winter 2003–04. Silk Chiné Taffeta, Horn, Plastic and Glass Beads, Horsehair Tubing, and Plastic Boning, Appeared in Living It Up.
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