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year in review
December 18, 2017

The Graphic T-Shirts That Defined the Year

By Emilia Petrarca@emiliapetrarca

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Photo: Getty Images

“The T-shirt is deliberate,” wrote Richard Goldstein in 1973 for a New York article on the subject, which was re-printed in the magazine’s 50th anniversary book this year. “You can use it to tell people a great deal about your class, your city of origin, and what you like in bed.”

Forty-four years later, the same can be said of the sartorial genre we now call the “graphic T-shirt.” But in 2017, people aren’t just talking with their T-shirts, they’re screaming. Popular slogans, usually written in all-caps, can reveal everything from our relationship to gender politics (“Nasty Woman” or “Feminist AF”) to which Soundcloud rappers we follow. There’s almost nothing that hasn’t been said, either consciously or subconsciously, on a T-shirt.

T-shirts were originally worn as undergarments, meant to seen by no one. It wasn’t until the 1960s and ’70s that slogan T-shirts began to emerge in popular culture, along with political protests, band tees, and a general desire to express oneself. What Goldstein wrote of this particular period reads eerily familiar today:

The T-shirt is a perfect fashion metaphor for the seventies. It seems spontaneous, but it is really premeditated. It seems democratic, but it is really chic. At a time when the style demands a studied exuberance, an informality which is prearranged, people turn to garments which project the harmlessness of children at play. But it’s a futile gesture, like going to war in lace. A T-shirt can make you sexy, but no fashion can make you feel innocent again.

This idea of “prearranged informality” is one that can easily be applied to both fashion and Instagram today, which is where so many of us (myself included) consume and promote graphic T-shirts. T-shirts are a blank canvas in a culture where we try to communicate huge, complex personal beliefs via carefully-curated images, viral hashtags, and 140 (sometimes 280) characters. In fashion, the T-shirt has also become an integral part of the current athleisure movement, replacing button-ups as we trade suits for more casual uniform. In other words, the T-shirt is a perfect fashion metaphor for 2017.

There was a lot to be said this year. Beginning in January with the Women’s March, millions of Americans took to the streets with their politically charged “the future is female” and “pussy grabs back” T-shirts. Meanwhile, Rihanna did her part by sharing Dior’s $710 “we should all be feminists” shirt on social media. By the end of the year, Dolce & Gabbana had flipped the trend on its head, parodying the political backlash it received with a $245 “#Boycott” T-shirt. For every sincere slogan, there was an ironic one to match.

In popular culture, merch proliferated beyond the work of musical artists this year, reaching from IKEA to outer space. Even Asahd Khaled, a 1-year-old baby, has his own merch. After the 21-year-old rapper Lil Peep died in November, merch was made posthumously in his name. This made me think that in 2017, T-shirts symbolized not only a futile gesture towards innocence, but also a grasp at immortality. I wear a T-shirt, therefore I am.

If nothing else, T-shirts told the story of 2017. Below, we attempted to sum up the entire year with 52 of the best, most-relevant graphic slogans.

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Dior's "We Should All Be Feminists" Tee Rihanna posted an Instagram of herself in this $710 Dior t-shirt the day after the Women's Marc... Dior's "We Should All Be Feminists" Tee Rihanna posted an Instagram of herself in this $710 Dior t-shirt the day after the Women's March. 
The Wing "Girls Doing Whatever the Fuck They Want In 2017" Tee The Wing raised a total investment of $42 million this year and opened a... The Wing "Girls Doing Whatever the Fuck They Want In 2017" Tee The Wing raised a total investment of $42 million this year and opened another location in Soho. (Shop.the-wing.com, $40.) 
Gucci Vintage Logo Tee This vintage-style T-shirt became an instant street style hit after it debuted on the Resort 2017 runway. (Gucci.com, $590... Gucci Vintage Logo Tee This vintage-style T-shirt became an instant street style hit after it debuted on the Resort 2017 runway. (Gucci.com, $590.)
Raf Simons "Any Way Out of This Nightmare?" Tee Welcome to America, Raf Simons. (Farfetch.com, $265.)
Supreme x Louis Vuitton This collaboration marked a major turning point for the cult streetwear brand, which sold a stake in its company for a re... Supreme x Louis Vuitton This collaboration marked a major turning point for the cult streetwear brand, which sold a stake in its company for a reported $1 billion dollars this year.
Yeezy Season 5 Tee Kanye West's "Calabasas casual" redefined athleisure this year. (Yeezysupply.com, sold out.)
Migos "T-Shirt" Tee Migos did it for the culture in 2017. They even had a single called "T-Shirt." (Yungrichnation.com, $32.)... Migos "T-Shirt" Tee Migos did it for the culture in 2017. They even had a single called "T-Shirt." (Yungrichnation.com, $32.)
Lil Uzi Vert "All My Friends" Are Dead Tee Lil Uzi Vert unexpectedly released LUV Is Rage 2 on Soundcloud this year, and it q... Lil Uzi Vert "All My Friends" Are Dead Tee Lil Uzi Vert unexpectedly released LUV Is Rage 2 on Soundcloud this year, and it quickly became the most-streamed album on the platform. His single, "XO Tour Llif3," (from which this lyric is pulled) was also the most streamed single this year. (Store.liluziofficial.com, $30.) 
Victoria Beckham's "Fashion Stole My Smile" Tee Victoria Beckham finally answers the question we've all had for years. (Victoriabeckham... Victoria Beckham's "Fashion Stole My Smile" Tee Victoria Beckham finally answers the question we've all had for years. (Victoriabeckham.com, $150.)  Photo: starzfly/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images
Emily Ratajkowski "Feminist AF" Tee Emily Ratajkowski had a lot of thoughts about feminism this year. (Etsy.com, $18.)
Kendrick Lamar "Damn" Merch According to Billboard, Kendrick Lamar's album was number-one of the year. Damn, indeed. (Txdxe.com, $35.) ... Kendrick Lamar "Damn" Merch According to Billboard, Kendrick Lamar's album was number-one of the year. Damn, indeed. (Txdxe.com, $35.)
The Met x Comme des Garçons Tee This might be the most fashionable museum merch, ever? (Store.metmuseum.org, $65.) 
Habitat x Twin Peaks "Audrey Smoke Break" Tee Twin Peaks made a comeback this year, but nothing topped the original looks. (Openingcere... Habitat x Twin Peaks "Audrey Smoke Break" Tee Twin Peaks made a comeback this year, but nothing topped the original looks. (Openingceremony.com, $30.)
Lena Dunham's "Dance Like Russia Isn't Watching" Tee It was quite a year in Lena Dunham Saying Things. This was perhaps the least contr... Lena Dunham's "Dance Like Russia Isn't Watching" Tee It was quite a year in Lena Dunham Saying Things. This was perhaps the least controversial. (Headlineshirts.net, $24.)  Photo: Courtesy of Instagram/lenadunham
Online Ceramics "Prepared to Die" Tee This one-of-a-kind T-shirt is dark, but in a cool way. (Alixross.info, sold out.)
Prabal Gurung "Stay Woke" Tee  Add "woke" to the Words of the Year list. Prabal Gurung showed a collection of T-shirts celeb... Prabal Gurung "Stay Woke" Tee  Add "woke" to the Words of the Year list. Prabal Gurung showed a collection of T-shirts celebrating wokeness for fall 2017. (Sold out.) Photo: Bruce Glikas/Bruce Glikas/FilmMagic
Jake Paul "God Like a Church" Tee The video for Jake Paul's single, "It's Everyday Bro," has been viewed 160 million times an... Jake Paul "God Like a Church" Tee The video for Jake Paul's single, "It's Everyday Bro," has been viewed 160 million times and counting. It features the lyric, "I just dropped some new merch / and it's selling like a God church." (Redbubble.com, $19.) Photo: Courtesy of Instagram/jakepaul
Hillsong Tee God was very en vouge this year, thanks in part to Hillsong, the hipster megachurch popular among Hollywood stars like Justin Bieber... Hillsong Tee God was very en vouge this year, thanks in part to Hillsong, the hipster megachurch popular among Hollywood stars like Justin Bieber. (Hillsongstore.com, $25.)
Lil Yachty "Teenage Emotions" Merch Everyone felt teenage emotions this year, even adults. (Lilyachtyshop.com, $25.)
Barron Trump's "The Expert" Tee No one in the White House was spared fashion criticism this year, but when 11-year-old Barron Trump was... Barron Trump's "The Expert" Tee No one in the White House was spared fashion criticism this year, but when 11-year-old Barron Trump was taunted for his T-shirt, we could perhaps all agree that he was the exception. (Jcrew.com, $30.) Photo: Pool/Getty Images
Lorde "Melodrama" Merch Melodramatic blue was the new Millennial pink. (Lorde.store, $30.)
O-Mighty "Furniture Hoe" Tee Not only did Virgil Abloh announce an official collaboration with IKEA this year, but custom pieces inspir... O-Mighty "Furniture Hoe" Tee Not only did Virgil Abloh announce an official collaboration with IKEA this year, but custom pieces inspired by the brand's iconic blue also surfaced online. (O-mighty.com, $44.)
Celine Dion's Balmain Tee Celine Dion remerged as a style icon this year at Paris Fashion Week with the help of her new stylist, Law Roach. (Myth... Celine Dion's Balmain Tee Celine Dion remerged as a style icon this year at Paris Fashion Week with the help of her new stylist, Law Roach. (Mytheresa.com, $690.) Photo: Marc Piasecki/GC Images
Kendall + Kylie "Tribute" Tees Kendall and Kylie Jenner unsurprisingly tried to ride the vintage merch wave this year with their own ve... Kendall + Kylie "Tribute" Tees Kendall and Kylie Jenner unsurprisingly tried to ride the vintage merch wave this year with their own version of memorial tribute T-shirts. They recieved so much backlash online, however, that they were forced to discontinue them and issue an apology. (Unavailable.)
Kendall Jenner's Crop Top Kendall Jenner caused a fuss this year when she proved that a crop top can never be too cropped. (Seller unknown.)... Kendall Jenner's Crop Top Kendall Jenner caused a fuss this year when she proved that a crop top can never be too cropped. (Seller unknown.) Photo: Courtesy of Instagram/kendalljenner
#Boycott Dolce & Gabbana Tee  Dolce & Gabbana turned the protest tee trend on its head by milling political backlash into profit. (D... #Boycott Dolce & Gabbana Tee  Dolce & Gabbana turned the protest tee trend on its head by milling political backlash into profit. (Dolcegabbana.com, $245.) 
Vetements "Rammstein" Tee Demna Gvasalia lead the Hot Topic comeback this year with a T-shirt featuring the German metal band Rammstein... Vetements "Rammstein" Tee Demna Gvasalia lead the Hot Topic comeback this year with a T-shirt featuring the German metal band Rammstein. (Mytheresa.com, $750.)
Frank Ocean's "Why Be Racist?" Tee Frank Ocean was hands-down the graphic T-shirt champion this year. His "Why be racist, sexist, ... Frank Ocean's "Why Be Racist?" Tee Frank Ocean was hands-down the graphic T-shirt champion this year. His "Why be racist, sexist, homophopic, or transphobic when you could just be quiet?" tee said everything. (Greenboxshop.us, $19.)  Photo: ANGELA WEISS/AFP/Getty Images
Issa Rae's "Hump" Shirt on Insecure Issa Rae had so many good T-shirts on Insecure this season. This "Make America gyrate again&q... Issa Rae's "Hump" Shirt on Insecure Issa Rae had so many good T-shirts on Insecure this season. This "Make America gyrate again" slogan felt particularly relevant. (Seller unknown.)
Beyoncé "Black Magic" Tee Beyoncé took her outfit Instagrams to the next level this year, before and after giving birth t... Beyoncé "Black Magic" Tee Beyoncé took her outfit Instagrams to the next level this year, before and after giving birth to twins. This particular post received over 8 million likes. (Mikeamiri.com, $325.) 
Urban Outfitters "NASA" Tee Outer space was trending this year, from Chanel's rocket ship runway to Nike x Tom Sachs to this Urban Outf... Urban Outfitters "NASA" Tee Outer space was trending this year, from Chanel's rocket ship runway to Nike x Tom Sachs to this Urban Outfitters collection. You know it's a thing when Urban Outfitters adopts it. (Urbanoutfitters.com, $38.)
"The Mooch" Tee Anthony Scaramucci posted this customized T-shirt on Instagram in the wake of his dramatic firing this summer.&nbs... "The Mooch" Tee Anthony Scaramucci posted this customized T-shirt on Instagram in the wake of his dramatic firing this summer. 
Asahd Khaled's "Iconic" Tee Even babies had their own merch this year, like DJ Khaled's son, who has over 1.7 million Instagram followe... Asahd Khaled's "Iconic" Tee Even babies had their own merch this year, like DJ Khaled's son, who has over 1.7 million Instagram followers.  Photo: Courtesy of Instagram/asahdkhaled
Off-White Princess Diana "Natural Woman" Tee Diana mourners included designer Virgil Abloh, who showed a full collection inspired by he... Off-White Princess Diana "Natural Woman" Tee Diana mourners included designer Virgil Abloh, who showed a full collection inspired by her for Spring 2018. He also made this charitable tribute tee in her name. (Available spring 2018.)
Hanes x Karla Tee Even the plain white Hanes T-shirt got the fashion treatment this year. Celebrity stylist Karla Welch gave it a makeover. (Xkar... Hanes x Karla Tee Even the plain white Hanes T-shirt got the fashion treatment this year. Celebrity stylist Karla Welch gave it a makeover. (Xkarla.com, $30.) 
Colin Kaepernick Jersey When Colin Kaepernick started to gain attention for his decision to "take a knee," his jersey became some of th... Colin Kaepernick Jersey When Colin Kaepernick started to gain attention for his decision to "take a knee," his jersey became some of the NFL's best-selling merchandise. (Nflshop.com, $75.)
Everlane "100% Human" Tee Everlane hit mainstream popularity this year not only for its clothes (and charitable tees, like this one), b... Everlane "100% Human" Tee Everlane hit mainstream popularity this year not only for its clothes (and charitable tees, like this one), but also for its "radical transparency." (Everlane.com, $22.)
Carmen Yulín Cruz's "Help Us" Tee After the hurricane hit Puerto Rico, San Juan's mayor used the T-shirt's viral potential to as... Carmen Yulín Cruz's "Help Us" Tee After the hurricane hit Puerto Rico, San Juan's mayor used the T-shirt's viral potential to ask for help. (Via Twitter.)
Telfar x White Castle Tee Telfar Clemens was awarded the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund prize this year for his innovative and unexpected styling, lik... Telfar x White Castle Tee Telfar Clemens was awarded the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund prize this year for his innovative and unexpected styling, like this charitable tee. (Shop.telfar.net, $91.)
Juicy Couture "Classic" Tee 2017 looked and felt a lot like 2000, thanks in part to the revial of Juicy Couture. That's hot. (Juicycout... Juicy Couture "Classic" Tee 2017 looked and felt a lot like 2000, thanks in part to the revial of Juicy Couture. That's hot. (Juicycouture.com, $68.)
Moschino "My Little Pony" Tee Nostalgia was everywhere on the runways, but this shirt really took us back to the age of innocence. (Mos... Moschino "My Little Pony" Tee Nostalgia was everywhere on the runways, but this shirt really took us back to the age of innocence. (Moschino.com, $250.)
Helmut Lang "Concert" Tee Helmut Lang was revived this year by editor-in-residence Isabella Burley and guest designer Shayne Oliver und... Helmut Lang "Concert" Tee Helmut Lang was revived this year by editor-in-residence Isabella Burley and guest designer Shayne Oliver under a completely new company structure. (Helmutlang.com, $150.)
Kith x nonnative "Clerk" Tee Kith really, really wanted you to take it seriously this year. It made a pretty good case with an enormous... Kith x nonnative "Clerk" Tee Kith really, really wanted you to take it seriously this year. It made a pretty good case with an enormous runway show during New York Fashion Week and a new store in Soho. (Kith.com, $238.)
Louis Vuitton "Stranger Things" Tee Creative director Anthony Vaccarello is just like us: a huge Stranger Things fan. (Availa... Louis Vuitton "Stranger Things" Tee Creative director Anthony Vaccarello is just like us: a huge Stranger Things fan. (Available spring 2018.) Photo: Catwalking/Getty Images
Taylor Swift "Reputation" Merch Taylor Swift arguably sucked all the fun out of merch this year when she used it to further her beef wi... Taylor Swift "Reputation" Merch Taylor Swift arguably sucked all the fun out of merch this year when she used it to further her beef with Kanye West. (Store.taylorswift.com, $45.)
Lil Peep "Cry Baby" Tee Lil Peep, a rising star and leader of the crying-is-cool emo rap movement, died unexpectedly in November at the... Lil Peep "Cry Baby" Tee Lil Peep, a rising star and leader of the crying-is-cool emo rap movement, died unexpectedly in November at the age of 21. New merch was made postumously. (Shop.thehyv.net, $20.)
Noah "The Cure" Tee Emo fashion perhaps peaked when this T-shirt dropped. (Noahny.com, $48.) 
Barbra Kruger "(Untitled)" Performa Tee Artist Barbra Kruger poked some fun at the “ridiculous clusterfuck of totally uncool joker... Barbra Kruger "(Untitled)" Performa Tee Artist Barbra Kruger poked some fun at the “ridiculous clusterfuck of totally uncool jokers” she once called Supreme, with these limited-edition T-shirts. (performa.bigcartel.com, $50.)
iPhone Glitch Tee Apple screwed up big time when it launched iOS 11 with a bug that turned the letter "I" into an incomprehensible symb... iPhone Glitch Tee Apple screwed up big time when it launched iOS 11 with a bug that turned the letter "I" into an incomprehensible symbol. (Artwork by Eric Lawrence.) 
Justin Bieber Wearing John Mayer Merch John Mayer made a comeback this year with his album The Search for Everything. Apparently, great mind... Justin Bieber Wearing John Mayer Merch John Mayer made a comeback this year with his album The Search for Everything. Apparently, great minds think alike. (More John Mayer merch can be found here.) Photo: SCLA, JOLA/CPR / BACKGRID
PSA "Sexual Position" Tee No movement was without merch this year, even #MeToo. (Publicserviceannouncement.co, $42.)
Monogram x Madewell "T-Shirt About Women" Tee Well, here's where we're at. 
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