The front row wasn’t actually the best seat in the house at the Dior Cruise 2019 show on Friday in Chantilly, France. Editor Carine Roitfeld made a beeline for the second row thanks to sweeping rain and a partially uncovered runway that put the front row guests in the way of showers.
Held at the historic stables of Domaine de Chantilly, the center of this season’s runway was an equestrian sand pit in which six Mexican escaramuzas, (Mexican female rodeo riders), clad in Dior hats, dresses, and the brand’s iconic 999 lipstick, strode in on white horses performing equestrian tricks and drills. Models walked along the perimeter, unfazed by the weather.
Like Maria Grazia Chiuri’s previous collections, feminism and the female spirit were an inspiration. In the show notes, Chiuri said she looked to the “tradition and freedom” of the escaramuzas. The collection was a #Diorodeo, melding French and Mexican equestrian styles with Chantilly lace, toile de jouy, and peasant-style embroideries.
Silhouettes featured nipped blazers paired with riding pants, as well as flowing tulle skirts with lots of movement. Belts featuring saddle-like buckles accented and cinched the waists of numerous looks, plus a few that covered the front of the body like a chestplate. All of the models wore flat rubber boots or combat shoes, which turned out to be fortuitous. Guido Palau’s horse-inspired pony tails also look sharp and sleek despite the moisture in the air.
Guests like Alexa Chung and Brad Goreski were overheard saying that the rain only added to the clothes’ dreaminess; a true silver lining.