New York Men’s Fashion Week began on Monday afternoon, as it often does, with a parade of impeccably tailored gray suits. But these were not the sort of suits your dad wears to work. They were the splendid creations of Alejandro Gómez Palomo, whose namesake label, Palomo Spain, returned to America after debuting here in 2017. Since the brand’s launch, Beyoncé wore Palomo’s colorful robes in her now-iconic twins reveal photo, and he’s established a point of view that’s recognizable as his own.
Still, Palomo did things a little differently this season. It was jarring to see such a color-happy designer show so much gray at the start of a show. “It’s a completely new take on what I’ve been doing until now,” Palomo told the Cut backstage. “Before, I was trying to make women’s wear into menswear. Now we’re starting from the very strong base of tailoring and taking it to my own universe, which is more sensual and feminine.”
The collection is rooted in the idea of travel (hence Palomo’s decision to come back to New York) and was inspired by a story about Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes: In 1916, the whole company sought refuge from WWI in Spain. The result is a mix of Russian luxury and Spanish exuberance, all worn by some of the most beautiful humans to grace New York Fashion Week: Men’s. Together, they were their own stunning troupe.
Get a closer look backstage below.