For the first time perhaps ever, the models at Marc Jacobs this season wore “no-makeup makeup” — the kind of casual, invisible beauty look you might wear to brunch. Big whoop, you’re probably thinking. But consider that this is the designer who usually traffics in extremes. In spring 2015, his models wore no makeup at all. But he also had Francois Nars create 65 different makeup looks in fall 2009. Something this “simple” represents a change for him.
The look appeared to come together easily. When you have really, really beautiful models like Christy Turlington who are walking your show after having not been on the runway since 1995, you leave well enough alone. “It’s all about beauty. It’s all about very pretty, beautiful girls,” explained Redken creative director Guido Palau.
Makeup artist Diane Kendal didn’t even use foundation backstage. Every station was outfitted with small vials of a yet-to-be-released Marc Jacobs Beauty moisturizer called Youthquake. The rumor backstage was that Jacobs is, like everyone else, currently very obsessed with skin care. After trying a sample of the new moisturizer from his beauty R&D team, he requested that it serve as the focal point for the look because he liked it so much (that, and he’s probably also a very savvy marketer).
A bit of concealer and powder evened out redness, and lip balm and Marc Jacobs Beauty Glowstick served as the highlighter. A dusty brown rose mix of lipstick and lip gloss (Marc Jacobs Beauty Le Marc Liquid Lip Crayon in Send Nudes 200 and Sheer Gel Lipstick in In the Mood 152) was brushed onto the apples of each model’s cheeks.
“There’s not much hair this season,” said Palau. There were more bobby pins than hair activities backstage, as most models wore their hair simply pinned under hats designed by Stephen Jones. Those that wore their hair down had a soft no-hairstyle-hairstyle look (with the tiniest bit of texture and movement added with Redken Triple Dry 15). Others had their hair side-parted with a bobby pin at around eyebrow level (a barrettelike style).
Manicurist Jin Soon Choi jokingly called the nails the “Anna Wintour special.” Wintour is known for not wearing nail polish and having simple, buffed nails. With shiny being his favorite color, Jacob made sure his models’ polish-free nails were so buffed that they gleamed.
“It isn’t a look but when you look at it together, it is a look,” said Palau backstage. It takes a lot of effort to look that effortless.