If there’s one thing Marc Jacobs knows and loves, it’s drama. A proposal becomes a flash mob at Chipotle. A fashion show becomes a spectacle. His fall 2019 collection, shown at the Park Avenue Armory as is his tradition, was no exception. The cavernous room was dark except for stage lights tracking the models and another light on a string quartet, playing a haunting, at times anxiety-inducing tune in a minor key. The show was sandwiched by two older models (by industry standards at least). The opener was Christina Kruse in a beanie adorned with feathers, the closer was Christy Turlington in a dress that smacked of Black Swan. Turlington’s presence was especially notable: she hasn’t walked a runway in years. But there she was, wearing a black feathered dress, leather boots, and a single feather attached to a fascinator.
Karlie Kloss, Kaia Gerber, and Gigi Hadid also walked. The collection was filled with capes, oversized coats in muted colors, and several red-carpet–ready gowns (including a gorgeous one in canary yellow.) It seemed much more dark and melancholic compared to his last show, which featured bright spring colors. He also abandoned high-voltage makeup in favor of a barely there look. Aside from that, many of the looks were distinctly Jacobsian. Clothes were largely oversized, feathers and ruffles abounded, and many models wore hats. But the biggest tell that it was a Marc Jacobs joint was undoubtedly the surprise appearance of one of the biggest faces of the ‘90s, a decade defined by Marc.