We set up on Beach 69th Street to talk to the surfers, many of whom are there every morning, year-round.
How’s the day been?
Really weird vibes. First this 50-year-old woman who was taking a surf class broke her leg on her board. Then this lady came running down the beach asking if anyone had seen her daughter. And then after that I heard this other mom on the boardwalk screaming for help — her daughter was choking. I ran over there with a few of the Locals guys, Danny, Jose, and Eric. After a few rounds of CPR, she started breathing again.
Is this normal?
Nah, the energy is clearly off today. It wasn’t all bad: This kid Baki caught a really nice wave. But that other stuff — I was shook.
Do you have a favorite board?
One from Quiksilver. I met the VP of the company at a bar in the ’90s and told him I couldn’t afford one; a week later, one showed up at my door.
See anything interesting today?
Dolphins. A whole pod, right up close. I saw a surfer come quite close to petting one of them.
Do you come out in the winter, too?
Yes. You have to wear a 6-mm rubber wet suit, plus a hoodie and gloves and boots. So, needless to say, this feels nice.
How long have you been surfing here?
Three years. In the beginning, I’d get in front of the waves, which pissed the regulars off. I don’t do that anymore.
*This article appears in the July 22, 2019, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!