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one word one shot
September 6, 2019

222 Designers on Their Spring/Summer Inspirations

By Andrew Nguyen

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Photo: The Cut

It’s that time! To kick off New York Fashion Week, the Cut asked 174 designers to choose just one word and one image to describe their new collections, giving us a mood-board preview of what we’ll see on the runways. This season, identity and self-empowerment are being celebrated by designers like Kate Spade, Sally LaPointe, and No Sesso, who chose “self-expression,” “power,” and “resilience.”

For many of the other designers on the list, dreamy images served as inspiration — paired with words like “superbloom” from Carolina Herrera, “age of possibilities” from Zero + Maria Cornejo, and “Moana” from Christian Cowan. Click ahead to see exclusive sketches and images from Tory Burch, Ulla Johnson, Christian Siriano, and many, many more.

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1 / 222 Photos
Tory Burch D.S. Photo: Anwar Hussein/Getty Images
Oscar de la Renta Latin roots. Photo: Courtesy of Oscar de la Renta
Kate Spade Self-expression. Photo: Juj Winn/Getty Images
Carolina Herrera Superbloom. Photo: Dennis Stock/©Dennis Stock/Magnum Photos
Longchamp Delicate. Photo: Courtesy of Longchamp
Ulla Johnson Connectedness. Photo: Courtesy of Ulla Johnson
Zero + Maria Cornejo Age of possibilities. Photo: Courtesy of Zero + Maria Cornejo
Hyundai Motor Company x Zero + Maria Cornejo Hyundai Motor Company x Zero + Maria Cornejo
Hyundai Motor Company X Zero Maria Cornejo Collage.
Batsheva Homestyle. Photo: Courtesy of Batsheva
No Sesso Resilience. Photo: Courtesy of No Sesso
Christopher John Rogers Primitivism. Photo: Courtesy of Christopher John Rogers
Christian Siriano Surrealism. Photo: Courtesy of Christian Siriano
LaQuan Smith Rich. Photo: Courtesy of LaQuan Smith
Jonathan Simkhai Liminal. Photo: Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai
Collina Strada Abolish ICE. Photo: Courtesy of Collina Strada
Anna Sui Victoriana. Photo: Courtesy of Anna Sui
Jonathan Cohen Identity. Photo: Courtesy of Jonathan Cohen
Noon by Noor Summer Breeze. Photo: Courtesy of Noon by Noor
Baja East High vibez. Photo: Courtesy of Baja East
3.1 Phillip Lim Boys and girls. Photo: Courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim
Alejandro Alonso Rojas Muse. Photo: Courtesy of Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Sally LaPointe Power. Photo: Courtesy of Sally LaPointe
Cong Tri Glistening. Photo: Courtesy of Cong Tri
Chromat Ten. Photo: Lanee Bird
Derek Lam 10 Crosby Aloha. Photo: Courtesy of Derek Lam 10 Crosby
Adam Lippes WIP. Photo: Courtesy of Adam Lippes
Lela Rose Café Lela. Photo: Courtesy of Lela Rose
Christian Cowan Moana. Photo: Mercedes Sanluis
Self Portrait Getaway. Photo: Courtesy of Self Portrait
The Blonds Love. Photo: Designed by Baz Luhrmann, Catherine Martin, and Christopher Tangney
Veronica Beard Sixties. Photo: Courtesy of Veronica Beard
Sandy Liang 1999. Photo: Courtesy of Sandy Liang
Victor Glemaud Boom Boom. Photo: Sansho Scott/BFA.com
Deveaux Heat. Photo: Tommy Ton/Deveaux
Ryan Roche Lightness. Photo: Courtesy of Ryan Roche
Mara Hoffman Abundance. Photo: Courtesy of Mara Hoffman
Zimmermann Wavelength. Photo: Courtesy of Zimmermann
Marina Moscone Humility. Photo: Courtesy of Marina Moscone
Dion Lee Hosiery. Photo: Courtesy of Dion Lee
Bibhu Mohapatra The Avedon-Baldwin examination. Photo: Courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra
Kyle and Shahida Empower. Photo: Kyle and Shahida
Cinq à Sept Brooklyn, 1978. Photo: Courtesy of Cinq à Sept
Dennis Basso Alluring. Photo: Courtesy of Dennis Basso
Rebecca Taylor Illustrative. Photo: Courtesy of Wallpaper from the 70’s
Bevza Life. Photo: Courtesy of Bevza
ADEAM East meets west. Photo: Courtesy of ADEAM
A.L.C. Structure meets sustainability. Photo: Courtesy of A.L.C.
Tanya Taylor Botanical. Photo: Sophie Parker
Cynthia Rowley Escapade. Photo: William Eadon
CHRISHABANA Dangerous. Photo: Courtesy of CHRISHABANA
Private Policy Stonewall Inn Riot. Photo: Courtesy of Private Policy
KAIMIN Introspective Prism. Photo: Patrycja Zantonski
Emme Parsons Intentional. Photo: Omar Sartor
Tibi Risk and practicality. Photo: Courtesy of Tibi
Apiece Apart Becoming. Photo: Lucy Laucht
Elie Tahari 70’s Soho. Photo: Courtesy of Elie Tahari
Claudia Li Phase II. Photo: Courtesy of Claudia Li
Adrienne Landau Glam. Photo: Saulo Villela
Dirty Pineapple Recycled love. Photo: Courtesy of Dirty Pineapple
Rachel Zoe Power suit. Photo: Courtesy of Rachel Zoe
BLDWN Marfa simplicity. Photo: Courtesy of BLDWN
Georgine Roadtrip. Photo: Ellen von Unwerth
Pamella Roland Alluring. Photo: Courtesy of Pamella Roland
Di Du Ocean. Photo: Lee Wei Swee
Rebecca Minkoff Freedom. Photo: Courtesy of Rebecca Minkoff
Reese Cooper Scenic. Photo: Reese Cooper
L'AGENCE Refreshing. Photo: Courtesy of L’AGENCE
Graham Tyler Post-Digital. Photo: Courtesy of Graham Tyler
SUBTERRANEI Jilted generation. Photo: Courtesy of SUBTERRANEI
AKNVAS Shape Y. Photo: Courtesy of AKNVAS
ALIÉTTE Paradigm. Photo: Courtesy of ALIÉTTE
Tadashi Shoji Rediscovering heritage. Photo: Courtesy of Tadashi Shoji
Halston Still. Photo: @localslore
AUDRA Roots. Photo: Black & Steil
AMUR Frida. Photo: Courtesy of AMUR
LEUNI Harmony. Photo: Courtesy of Leuni
Alex Riddle Hungry. Photo: Zoe Schneider
ARIAS Watercolor. Photo: Katharina Grosse
All Things Mochi Philippines. Photo: Courtesy of All Things Mochi
i-am-chen California. Photo: Courtesy of I Am Chen
Bronx and Banco Sahara. Photo: Courtesy of Bronx and Banco
CHOCHENG Soleil. Photo: Popperfoto/Popperfoto via Getty Images
CIE Play. Photo: Courtesy of CIE
Custo Barcelona Emotion. Photo: Courtesy of Custo Barcelona
IISE Corporate. Photo: Courtesy of IISE
DAMOWANG Wu xia. Photo: Courtesy of DAMOWANG
Duncan Darkly romantic. Photo: Courtesy of Duncan
EDGII Power Vibe. Photo: Courtesy of EDGII
Elf Sack Performer. Photo: Nolcha Shows
Fix And Fax Infinity. Photo: Katya Leonovich
LRS Nocturnum. Photo: Courtesy of LRS
Gabriela Hearst Courage. Photo: Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst
Ramy Brook Joie de vivre. Photo: Courtesy of Ramy Brook
Gee X Spectra Design Studio Imagine. Photo: Ghina Ghandour
Katie Gallagher Bath House. Photo: Sune Rose Wagner
Hanh Merriam Oasis. Photo: Courtesy of Hanh Merriam
A Company Interruption. Photo: Jenna Westa
Hogan Solanaceae. Photo: Bill Crisafi
I LOVE PRETTY Desolation Nation. Photo: Poly Global Advisory
Icy Presents: Dynasty by Eva Xu Shanghai. Photo: Courtesy of Eva Xu
Icy Presents: Dynasty by Fengyi Tan Zen. Photo: Courtesy of Fengyi Tan
Icy Presents: Dynasty by HIUMAN Terracotta Warriors. Photo: Courtesy of HIUMAN
Icy Presents: Dynasty by Leaf Xia Noble ladies. Photo: Courtesy of Leaf Xia
Josie Natori Spanish Riviera. Photo: Courtesy of Josie Natori
Caroline Ann Ephemeral. Photo: Courtesy of Caroline Ann
LBV c/o Joss Sackler Undeterred Photo: LBV
Trina Turk Simplicity. Photo: Wadley
KUHO Crossover. Photo: KUHO
Kalmanovich Weightless. Photo: Kalmanovich
Korto Momolu for Women Grow Cultivate. Photo: Courtesy of Korto Momolu
LA DOYENNE Verdant. Photo: Gina Schiappacasse
LEIN Sensuous. Photo: Courtesy of LEIN
85Eldridge Gummo. Photo: Courtesy of 85Eldridge
STAUD Retrouvailles. Photo: Courtesy of STAUD
LEYII Blossoming love. Photo: Courtesy of LEYII
LIE Humanity. Photo: Courtesy of LIE
Gravitas MVP. Photo: Artwork by Erick Dávila.
Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division,
LC-DIG-ggbain-09988.
Laurence & Chico Love letters to New York. Photo: Courtesy of Laurence & Chico
MARKGONG Gökotta. Photo: Courtesy of MARKGONG
3ZM x Luyang By Yanglu Compendium of materia medica. Photo: Nolcha Shows
Zang Toi Home Sweet Home. Photo: Zang Toi
Paola Hernandez Becoming. Photo: Courtesy of Paola Hernandez
Romeo Hunte Deformation. Photo: Courtesy of Romeo Hunte
Mikage Shin Skin and warmth. Photo: Mikage Shin
Wesley Harriott Disposition. Photo: Jonathan Corden
Moon Choi Duality. Photo: Courtesy of Moon Choi
NEUBYRNE Everything. Photo: Martha Gibbs
Nico Verhaegen Carcass. Photo: Nico Verhaegen
Refuse Club Youth. Photo: Refuse Club
Onia Joie de Vivre. Photo: Courtesy of Slim Aaron's
PH5 Ivy. Photo: Courtesy of Hearst Fujingaho
Manhattan Knights New Yorker. Photo: Courtesy of Manhattan Knights
LEHHO 1990's Seoul. Photo: Courtesy of LEHHO
SemSem Radiating. Photo: Courtesy of SemSem
Bugs Garson, Parsons MFA Dinner and cocktails. Photo: Courtesy of Bugs Garson
Evian Li, Parsons MFA Memory. Photo: Courtesy of Evian Li
Hualei Yu, Parsons MFA Miss Understood. Photo: Courtesy of Hualei Yu
Jimin Lee, Parsons MFA Female Gaze. Photo: GYUHO PARK
Jue Liu, Parsons MFA Intimate Landscape. Photo: Courtesy of Jue Liu
Meg Calloway, Parsons MFA Assemblage. Photo: Courtesy of Meg Calloway
Meredith Bullen, Parsons MFA Utilitarian Ballare. Photo: Courtesy of Meredith Bullen
Natalie Vladimiroff, Parsons MFA Disconnected Nostalgia. Photo: Courtesy of Natalie Vladimiroff
Sho Konishi, Parsons MFA Garden of Eden. Photo: Courtesy of Sho Konishi
Tara Babylon, Parsons MFA Babylonia 2020. Photo: Courtesy of Tara Babylon
Yong Guo, Parsons MFA Perfect Imperfection Photo: Courtesy of Yong Guo
Zill-e-Huma, Parsons MFA Freedom. Photo: Courtesy of Zill-e-Huma
Amir Taghi Contradiction. Photo: Courtesy of Amir Taghi
Peacebird No Boundary. Photo: Courtesy of Peacebird
Helen Anthony Childhood. Photo: Courtesy of Helen Anthony
REPLICA of Los Angeles Groovy. Photo: Courtesy of REPLICA of Los Angeles
RIZHUO Sojourner. Photo: Courtesy of RIZHOU
RaisaVanessa Boho Rebel. Photo: Courtesy of RaisaVanessa
Tribe Alive Restored. Photo: Michael Newsted
Rentrayage Hope. Photo: Albert Torres
Romona Keveža Collectable art. Photo: Courtesy of Romona Keveža Collection
Roxanne Assoulin Block party. Photo: Courtesy of Roxanne Assoulin
Saski Collection Contrast. Photo: Troy Archer
Shoshanna Effervescent classics. Photo: Photo by Shoshanna
Ron Ramos Somar. Photo: Courtesy of Ron Ramos
Alena Akhmadullina Princess Swan. Photo: Courtesy of Alena Akhmadullina
Son Jung Wan Splendor. Photo: Son Jung Wan
Songta Uniform. Photo: Courtesy of Songta
THEIA Enchanted garden. Photo: Courtesy of THEIA
Chelsea Grays Jean-Michel Basquiat. Photo: Courtesy of Chelsea Grays
Chelsea and Walker Mon Cheri. Photo: Courtesy of Chelsea and Walker
Yuna Yang You're beautiful. Photo: Courtesy of Yuna Yang
Taoray Taoray Yi's Embroidery. Photo: Courtesy of Taoray Taoray
Taoray Wang Wild Beauty, Intractable Myth. Photo: Courtesy of Taoray Wang
Threegun Tailor. Photo: Courtesy of Threegun
Alterre Cocoa Beach. Photo: Harmony Takaishi
Vivienne Hu My love. Photo: Vivienne Hu Design
Pierre Louis Auvray Arcade. Photo: Pierre Louis Auvray
Victoria Hayes Defense. Photo: Courtesy of Victoria Hayes
Yigal Azrouel Charnelle. Photo: Yigal Azrouel
KavenLui DIMOR Romantic. Photo: Nolcha Shows
Temperley London Botanical. Photo: Courtesy of Temperley London
Amnesia Identity. Photo: Nolcha Shows
S'RA Thai craftsmanship. Photo: S'RA
Marissa Webb Her. Photo: Courtesy of Marissa Webb
Andrew Kwon, Supima Design Competition Underwater garden. Photo: Courtesy of Andrew Kwon
Gina (Zinan) Guo, Supima Design Competition White skeleton. Photo: Courtesy of Gina (Zinan) Guo
Isabel Hajian, Supima Design Competition Dress up. Photo: Courtesy of Isabel Hajian
Yoohyeon Kim, Supima Design Competition Intrinsic. Photo: Courtesy of Yoohyeon Kim
Shuxian Kong, Supima Design Competition Doodling. Photo: Courtesy of Shuxian Kong
Linh La, Supima Design Competition Outsider. Photo: Courtesy of Linh La
Ishwari Vijh, Supima Design Competition Remember. Photo: Courtesy of Ishwari Vijh
Illene Martoseno, Supima Design Competition Transcendent. Photo: Courtesy of Illene Martoseno
Yogiswari Prajanti Color Brings Happiness. Photo: Courtesy of Yogiswari Prajanti
Afffair Kahri Bulbul Flower. Photo: Rufat Ismayil
Arti Arti. Photo: Courtesy of Arti
Ayumi An Ode to Ethnicity Photo: Courtesy of Ayumi
Beneath the Bark Jewelry Sustainable. Photo: Courtesy of Beneath the Bark Jewelry
Liu Yong x Rishikensh Athleisure. Photo: Courtesy of Liu Yon x Rishikensh
Born Snip. Photo: Courtesy of Born
Cassia Yuan Non-sequitur. Photo: Courtesy of Cassia Yuan
Dignified Women's Apparel Unwilted. Photo: Courtesy of Dignified Women's Apparel
Eitan Broude Sky. Photo: Courtesy of Eitan Broude.
Empire Collection Empowering. Photo: Courtesy of Empire Collection
Forbidden Denimeries Pantelleria. Photo: Courtesy of Forbidden Denimeries
Haan Haan Rusted. Photo: Courtesy of Haan Haan
Haley Manochi Expression. Photo: Courtesy of Haley Manochi
House of Campbell Innovator. Photo: Courtesy of House of Campbell
J. Noelle Design Whimsical. Photo: Courtesy of J. Noelle Design.
Julia Heuer Peaches and Pepper. Photo: Courtesy of Julia Heuer
Julian Zigerli ANDY. Photo: Andy Kassier
Julianto Il Fiore. Photo: Courtesy of Julianto
Lesunja Beauty. Photo: Courtesy of Lesunja
Lontéssa Hunted. Photo: Courtesy of Lontéssa
Made with Love Bridal Whimsy. Photo: Courtesy of Made with Love Bridal
Margaret Garrison Zipped. Photo: Courtesy of Margaret Garrison
MICA Path. Photo: Courtesy of MICA
Nonnistics Exquisite. Photo: Courtesy of Nonnistics
Nykwale Eccentric. Photo: Courtesy of Nykwale
Qi Zhou Waiting. Photo: Courtesy of Qi Zhou
Shelby Harvey Transcendent. Photo: Courtesy of Shelby Harvey
Sōnya Swim Crisp White. Photo: Courtesy of Sōnya Swim
2 Madison Avenue by Maggie Hutahuruk Eddy Vivify the Block. Photo: Courtesy of Maggie Hutahuruk Eddy
Vanessa Schindler Jewelry Frozen. Photo: Chaumont Zaerpour
Y.H Motion. Photo: Courtesy of Y.H
YVY Uni-form. Photo: Linn Bär
All Reclaimed by P Reclaimed. Photo: Courtesy of All Reclaimed by P
Alicia Stephens Resilience. Photo: Courtesy of Alicia Stephens
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