As a Texan, I have loved seeing cowboys on the red carpet recently — specifically Lil Nas X, Kacey Musgraves, and Orville Peck. And now, the proprietors of Italian fashion houses have caught on. I am talking, of course, about non-Italian designer Jeremy Scott, who, in today’s Moschino fall-winter 2020 show in Milan, combined Marie Antoinette and denim to create a delightfully surreal collection.
Only the first look really evoked a cowboy; the rest were influenced by the ’80s. Some were styled as biker jackets, printed in toile, and accessorized with lace-up boots. Of the 67 looks in the collection, 20 had mini-hoopskirts jutting out like lampshades. Five of the closing outfits closely resembled cakes or other confections, giving the show a vibe similar to the “Be Our Guest” number in Beauty and the Beast (also “French,” just like Marie!).
This is far from the only time a designer has revived Marie Antoinette by mashing up hoopskirts with a more contemporary reference. Raf Simons’s fall 2014 collection for Dior evoked both the space race and the cake-loving monarch. But that collection used a lighter touch, whereas Scott, as is his wont, thrust it in your face. Last February, his collection focused on pop culture, ending with a gown that looked like a TV dinner. This year, it’s the opposite inspiration: aristocratic, disengaged opulence brought down to earth by denim miniskirts and leather jackets.