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one word one shot
February 7, 2020

130 Designers on Their Fall/Winter Inspirations

By Jennimai Nguyen

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Photo: The Cut

To kick off New York Fashion Week, the Cut asked 128 designers to choose just one word and one image to describe their new collections, giving us a mood-board preview of what we’ll see on the runways. This season, identity and power are being explored by designers like Tory Burch, Jonathan Simkhai, and Sally LaPointe, who chose the words “fearless,” “heritage,” and “defy,” respectively.

For many of the other designers on the list, dreamy images served as inspiration — paired with words like “in full bloom” from Lela Rose, “free spirit” from Reem Acra, and “A Starry Night” from Oscar de la Renta. Click ahead to see exclusive sketches and images from Prabal Gurung, Carolina Herrera, Adam Lippes and many, many more.

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1 / 130 Photos
2MADISON AVENUE by Maggie Hutauruk Eddy Liga (League). Photo: CADA
Aknvas Effortless. Photo: Aknvas
AMEHL Fancypants. Photo: Caroline Federle
Adam Lippes Rohuna. Photo: Adam Lippes
Adrienne Landau YAASSS! Photo: Saulo Villela
Alejandro Alonso Rojas Women. Photo: Alejandro Alonso Rojas
ARIAS Lee Krasner. Photo: Courtesy of ARIAS
Audra Ruth. Photo: Audra
Bettie Kim Fairytale. Photo: CADA
Bevza Beautify. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
Bibhu Mohapatra A Figment. Photo: Courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra
Bingyao Chen Creative future. Photo: CADA
Blancore Lost Elf. Photo: Liang Ding Tao
Brianna Thomas, Footaction Culture/Cultural Influence Photo: Abree Hill
Brother Vellies Candy. Photo: Aurora James/Brother Vellies
CHOCHENG The Apartment. Photo: Everett Collection
Carolina Herrera Spanish Baroque. Photo: St. Agatha, Zurbarán, 1631-1640. Musee Fabre, Montpellier. Zurbarán, by Santiago Alcolea, p.77.
Chakierrah Stinson, Footaction Versatility. Photo: Lynn Buchannon
Christian Siriano Dadaism. Photo: Christian Siriano
Christopher John Rogers Sexy. Photo: Christopher John Rogers
Christy + You Superpower. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio
Chromat Olympix. Photo: Courtesy of Chromat
Chun Han Queen. Photo: CADA
Cina á Sept Influential. Photo: Cinq á Sept
Claudia Li 3.16.19WANGGENGSHENG. Photo: Claudia Li
Custo Barcelona Next-Gen. Photo: Custo Barcelona
Cynthia Rowley Child's Play. Photo: Cynthia Rowley
Dennis Basso International. Photo: Courtesy of Dennis Basso
Derek Lam 10 Crosby American Idol. Photo: Sonia Moskowitz/IMAGES/Getty Images
Dion Lee Visibility. Photo: Courtesy of Dion Lee
Dirty Pineapple Rhapsody. Photo: Courtesy of Dirty Pineapple
HEAVEN PLEASE+ I SWEAR I'M A NICE GHOST. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
HARRISON WONG Abstract composition. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
SUN=SEN Girl, you'll be a woman soon. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
Fix and Fax Resurrection. Photo: Katya Leonovich
Gabriela Hearst Repurpose. Photo: Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst
Hardeman Loveharder. Photo: Alexis Jade Gross
Helen Anthony Strong and Powerful Women. Photo: John Rowley
Hogan Mclaughlin Hard.Soft Photo: Painting by Robin Isley
IISE Symmetry. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
Jeffrey Dodd Utopia. Photo: Jeffrey Dodd Studio
JUST IN XX Double imprint. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
Jasmine Chong Of heaven, of earth. Photo: Jasmine Chong
Jonathan Simkhai Heritage. Photo: Courtesy of Jonathan Simkhai
Josie Natori Heritage. Photo: Josie Natori
Katie Gallagher Scarlet. Photo: Sune Rose Wagner
KEH Mixing genders. Photo: Courtesy of KEH
Kalmanovich Diana. Photo: Courtesy of Kalmanovich
Kate Spade Discovery. Photo: Shutterstock
Kenneth Nicholson Forge. Photo: Kenneth Nicholson
Kollar Clothing Nightlife. Photo: Kollar Clothing
L'AGENCE Tailored. Photo: Courtesy of L'AGENCE
Leyii Connection. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
LIE Expression. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
La Doyenne Nascent. Photo: Paasha Motamedi
Le'Nora Gray, Footaction Travel Luxe. Photo: Le'Nora Gray
Lela Rose In full bloom. Photo: Courtesy of Lela Rose
Longchamp Timeless. Photo: Longchamp
Luooif Studio Wild. Photo: Liang Ding Tao
Mimi Prober Textile Narratives. Photo: Mimi Prober
MVR Designs Organic. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio
Manishii Handcrafted. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio
Mara Hoffman Work. Photo: Courtesy of Mara Hoffman
Marina Moscone Figurative. Photo: Marina Moscone
Marissa Webb Anywhere. Photo: Marissa Webb
Markarian Razzle-Dazzle. Photo: Markarian
Matt Sarafa Unapologetic. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio
Mayan the Label Individual. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio
Monse Meowr. Photo: Monse
Moon Choi Nostalgia. Photo: Moon Choi
Namilia Herotica. Photo: Namilia
Nicole Miller Regal Rock. Photo: Nicole Miller
Nachae Davis, Footaction Inclusivity. Photo: Joshua Fuller
NadineByNadia Neoteric. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio
Naeem Khan United. Photo: Naeem Khan
Neubyrne Twenty Four. Photo: Elisa Morgan
Oscar de la Renta A Starry Night. Photo: Oscar de la Renta
Pamella Roland Versailles. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
PH5 Shred-the-Gnar. Photo: PH5
Palm Angels New Vintage. Photo: Palm Angels
Paola Hernandez Multidimensional Path. Photo: Courtesy of Designer
PatBO Moment. Photo: PatBO
3.1 Phillip Lim Interlude. Photo: Sophie Parker
Poli and Jo Defender. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio
Prabal Gurung New York. Photo: Courtesy of Bart Barlow for Rainbow Room
Private Policy Get Well Soon. Photo: Private Policy
Rachel Zoe Polished. Photo: Rachel Zoe Collection
Rails Timeless. Photo: Courtesy of Rails
Raisa Vanessa Marakech Spark. Photo: Courtesy of Raisa Vanessa
Raquel Allegra Woman. Photo: Dana Boulos
Reem Acra Free Spirit. Photo: Courtesy of Reem Acra
Rene Tyler Contrast. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio.
Rentrayage Uniquely common. Photo: Albert Torres
Ruojing Wang Anesthetize. Photo: CADA
Subterranei Cyberfeminism. Photo: Subterranei
Sally LaPointe Defy. Photo: Courtesy of Sally Lapointe
Samantha Darryanto Paranakan. Photo: Oxford Fashion Studio
Secteur 6 Regenerative. Photo: Marcelo Krasilcic
Segio Hudson Sharp. Photo: Courtesy of Sergio Hudson
Sharonda Richardson, Footaction Distinction. Photo: Pawel Czerwinski
Shoshanna Countryside romance. Photo: Shoshanna
Shuai Zeng Oriental. Photo: CADA
Son jung Wan Vintage. Photo: Son Jung Wan
Staud Vibes. Photo: Courtesy of Staud
Sukeina Tempo. Photo: Sukeina
THE BLONDS Heaven. Photo: Francois Le Moyne, The Apotheosis of Hercules.
Tadashi Shoji Mongolia. Photo: Tadashi Shoji
Tanya Taylor #FASHUNFITTING. Photo: Tanya Taylor
Taoray Wang Rêve parisien. Photo: Courtesy of Taoray Wang
Tibi Articulation. Photo: Courtesy of Tibi
Tory Burch Fearless Photo: Courtesy of Francesca DiMattio/Salon 94 New York
Trina Turk Film Fatale. Photo: Dewey Nicks
Ulla Johnson Wild Garden. Photo: Courtesy of Ulla Johnson
Vivienne Hu Echoing canyons. Photo: Wanyue Z
Victor Glemaud Heritage. Photo: Victor Glemaud
Wiederhoeft Nostalgia. Photo: Courtesy of Wiederhoeft
Yiting Lee Character. Photo: CADA
Yiyi Kwok Telegnosis. Photo: CADA
Yuna Yang Delicate. Photo: Courtesy of Yuna Yang
Zadig & Votaire Raw. Photo: Zadig & Voltaire
Zero + Maria Cornejo Cultural displacement. Photo: Courtesy of Zero + Maria Cornejo
Zimmermann Lucky. Photo: Zimmermann
Adeam “Kemari” – Hanako Maeda. Photo: ADEAM
Baja East “MIDNIGHT IN THE MOHAVE” – Scott Studenberg Photo: Courtesy of Baja East
DB Berdan Transhumanist. Photo: DB Berdan
e1972 Icon. Photo: Courtesy of e1972
oqLiq Crossing over. Photo: oqLiq
Self-Portrait “Transitional” – Han Chong. Photo: Self-Portrait
Noon by Noor Scroll Jacquard. Photo: Courtesy of Noon by Noor
Anna Sui Gothic. Photo: Courtesy of Anna Sui
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