new yawk style

The City Ate My Closet

An utterly fractional sampling of some of the most-worn (and most-coveted) New York merch.

Photo-Illustration: Photographs by DeSean McClinton-Holland
Photo-Illustration: Photographs by DeSean McClinton-Holland
Photo-Illustration: Photographs by DeSean McClinton-Holland

As any true connoisseur of New York merch knows, the best stuff is often found in the back, so to speak. The surprise of learning that your favorite slice joint or specialty supermarket or bathhouse sells a T-shirt when they have no business doing so (literally), is what makes it so covetable, as opposed to the actual quality of the T-shirt itself.

It’s a souvenir collector’s equivalent of finding buried treasure, only the wearer is rich in insider-ness. By wearing an L&B Spumoni Gardens T-shirt, for example, you are not only saying “I enjoy a Sicilian square pie,” but also that you’ve made the trip to Gravesend enough times to know that you have to go up to the counter and ask for one yourself. (I was told to ask for a guy named John.)

When the pandemic hit the city, though, and New Yorkers were no longer able to frequent their favorite spots in person, buying merch from a safe distance — so, mostly online — became one way to support local business, to feel connected to a place beyond one’s own apartment, and to show some hometown pride when the city was down. Nonprofits like Merch4Relief and Neighborhood Spot popped up to pair designers with establishments that didn’t already have merch, and unofficial mascots like New York Nico hosted a contest for the “Best New York T-shirt,” resulting in more (better) merch than ever before. A distinctly anti-fashion impulse became more accessible, and by extension, a trendier phenomenon: We’re calling it Zizmorecore, which you can read more about in this week’s cover story — and peruse some examples of, below.

Here, we’ve culled an utterly fractional sampling of some of the most-worn (and most-coveted) New York merch. Really, it’s just a slice of what’s out there — please, show us more on social media and in the comments — but we’ve attempted to organize it all into a museum of sorts, divided into four different categories: the “Old Faithfuls” — stuff from beloved spots that have been around forever. Swag from the “New Guard,” which includes shirts from natural-wine bars and community nonprofits, plus some Dimes lip balm. Then we have “DI(N)Y,” meaning the bootlegs, one-offs, and various other non-sanctioned objets d’art made by small brands and individual creatives. And finally, New York’s most obsessive collectors — the guys behind spots like Procell and Fantasy Explosion — share their favorite, most exceedingly rare finds from establishments past and present.

Browse By Category

Another thing that any true New York merch connoisseur knows is that the best stuff is constantly in and out of stock. (Good luck getting that Knicks tee on Fantasy Explosion, for example — drops usually sell out in half an hour.) So if you can’t find something you love in-person or on the establishment’s website, trying looking on eBay or Etsy. Happy hunting.

New Yawk Style

Old Faithfuls

Stuff from beloved spots that have been around forever.

Classic Chinatown Ice Cream Factory T-shirt, $30 at chinatownicecreamfactory.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
BAM Tote Bag, $20 at Greenlight Bookstore Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Fanelli’s Upside-Down Tee, $25 at fanellicafe.nyc Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Casa Magazines “The Papers” Tee, $35 at neighborhood-spot.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
The Odeon Baseball Cap, $35 at theodeonrestaurant.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Veselka Cycling Jersey, $75 at veselka.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
MoMA Champion Hoodie, $80 at moma.org Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Wo Hop T-shirt, $10 at wohop17.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
L&B Spumoni Gardens T-shirt, $25 at L&B Spumoni Gardens (available in-person only)
Zabar’s Tote Bag, $15 to $18 at zabars.com Photo: Juan C. Lopez Espantaleon/Zabar’s
Only NY x NYC Parks Logo Champion Hoodie, $78 at onlyny.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Ferrara “Holy Cannoli” T-shirt, $23 at ferraranyc.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Custom Gem Spa Studded Hoodie and Short Set, $200 at gemspanyc.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
The Frick Collection Cap, $20 at frick.org Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
The Halal Guys Sweatshirt, coming soon to thehalalguys.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Balloon Saloon Sweatshirt, $49 at balloonsaloon.com
B&H Dairy “Challah! Por Favor” Hoodie, $25 at B&H Dairy (available in-person only) Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Raoul’s “Poivre for Days” Hoodie, $48 at merch4relief.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Film Forum T-shirt, $25 at filmforum.org Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Sunny’s Tote Bag, $10 at sunnysredhook.com Photo:  DeSean McClinton-Holland
Neir’s Tavern Embroidered Hat, $30 at neirstavern.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Russian Baths T-Shirt, $25 at russianturkishbaths.com Photo: Courtesy of the Russian and Turkish Baths

New Yawk Style

The New Guard

Swag from natural-wine bars and community nonprofits, plus some Dimes lip balm.

Harlem Hops Doug Aldrich Graffiti Logo T-shirt, $30 at harlemhops.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
She Wolf Bakery Tote Bag, $25 at dinernyc.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Four Horsemen Logo T-shirt, $28 at fourhorsemenbk.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Ode to Babel Bucket Hat, $52 at odetobabel.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Books Are Magic Baggu, $16 at booksaremagic.net Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Peoples Wine Reflective T-shirt, $35 at peopleswine.square.site Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland/Copyright 2021. All rights reserved.
Court Street Grocers Tote Bag, $30 at courtstreetgrocers.shop Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Scarr’s Pizza Water Bottle, $16 at store.scarrspizza.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Le Ballon Logo Skateboard Deck, $68 at parkdelibk.com Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Papi Juice Stretchy Love Thong, $20 at papijuice.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Dimes Lip Balm, $6 at dimesnyc.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Mood Ring “Discover Bisexuality” Hoodie, $60 at moodringnyc.squarespace.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Public Records Logo Tote Bag, $30 at publicrecords.nyc Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
La Esquina T-shirt, $65 at La Esquina Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Cafe Erzulie Tri-Color Shorts, $50 at cafeerzulie.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Rippers Hardbody Neon Long-Sleeved Shirt, $40 at eatrippers.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Cervo’s Baseball Hat, $28 at cervosnyc.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Natty Garden T-shirt, $20 at nattygarden.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Building Black Bed-Stuy Shirt, $60 at sincerelytommy.com. (All proceeds go to the organization.) Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Lovers Rock Bleach-Dyed Pizzeria T-shirt, $40 at loversrock.bigcartel.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Best Pizza T-shirt, $30 at etsy.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland

New Yawk Style

 DI(N)Y

Bootlegs, one-offs, and various other non-sanctioned art objets.

Judi Rosen Max Fish Rebus Tee, $30 at judirosenny.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
“When Harry Mets Sally” Hat, from Justin Hager Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Zabar’s Papier-Mâché Mug With Pencils, $300 upon request at @berniekaminski Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Cookies Hoops Big Apple Crewneck, $70 at cookieshoops.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
True Yorkers Sweatshirt, $140 at trueyorkers.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Peralta Project “Nueva York” Script Tee, $30 at peraltaproject.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Cause There’s Only 1 “212/718” Tee, $28 at causetheresonly1.bigcartel.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Fantasy Explosion Guggenheim Hoodie, $48 at fantasyexplosion.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Fantasy Explosion “When I Move, You Move” Tote Bag, $20 at fantasyexplosion.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
6FYFF T-shirt, $20 to $22 at newdigitalera.bigcartel.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
The Mets Hat, $30 at themetshat.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Susan Alexandra “I Heart NY” Bag, $325 at susanalexandra.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
It’s an Honest Living “The MTA Union Issued 3M Wool Beanie,” $30 at itsanhonestliving.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Staff 360 Yankee Brims Hat, $550 at staff-nyc.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
“Bad Day in New York” Tee by Clara Kirkpatrick, $35 upon request at @doodle_deli (Winner of the best NewYorkNico T-shirt contest) Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Perico Limited “Home Grown Yerrrr” T-shirt, $45 at pericolimited.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Cause There’s Only 1 “The NY1 Tee,” from Cause There’s Only 1 Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
“Con Ed Son!” Pocket Tee, $35 at neighborhood-spot.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Classic Material “Real New Yorker” Hat, $40 at classicmaterialny.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
New York Pilates Barneys Hat, $50 at newyorkpilates.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Met20 Upcycled Souvenir Tee, $55 at gypsysportny.com Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland

New Yawk Style

Vintage Grails

New York’s most obsessive collectors share their favorite, most exceedingly rare finds.

’80s Sammy’s Roumanian Hat, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: Courtesy of the Vendor
Supreme Apollo T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’90s Katz’s Deli Marco T-shirt, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Peter Luger Hat, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’80s “New Yawk” Souvenir T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Lesbian & Gay Film Festival T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Pumps T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
New York Knicks Tee, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Barneys Hat, from Chad Senzel’s Archive Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’80s “Still Had a Good Time” Souvenir T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
DSNY T-shirt, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
NY Marathon Hat, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’80s Transit Police Tunnel Rats T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
1988 San Gennaro Festival Hot 97 T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
Blackout ’77 T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
NYSE Hat, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’80s Parks and Rec T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’90s City Bus T-shirt, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
“Go Home!” Souvenir T-shirt, from Fantasy Explosion Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’90s New York City Ballet Long-Sleeved Shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’90s AIDS Dance-a-thon Hat, from Intramural Shop Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland
’80s Transit Authority T-shirt, from Procell Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland

*This article appears in the March 1, 2021, issue of New York Magazine. Subscribe Now!

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The City Ate My Closet