Yesterday’s cruise extravaganza looked into the past while contemplating the future.

Nicolas Ghesquière makes a case for the strength of uncomplicated femininity in his new Louis Vuitton collection.

His subdued new Chanel collection seemed to nod to #MeToo and right-wing politics. Plus: Sarah Burton’s unique touch at McQueen.

Demna Gvasalia’s 3-D-printing innovation shows the way at Balenciaga. Plus: Gorgeous old-fashioned tailoring at Thom Browne and Givenchy.

Rei Kawakubo’s notes on Sontag; Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski finally finds classical balance at Hermès; Altuzarra’s ease.

Loewe and Undercover make it convincingly.

A life-affirming museum retrospective reminds us of the mysterious Belgian designer’s huge influence.

Plus: A sublime Margiela retrospective; special subtlety at Chloé and Lemaire.

When his clothes have this balanced spontaneity, he might be. Plus: Sexy Saint Laurent; secure Margiela; abysmal Lanvin.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s clumsy feminism at Dior finds its moment, while Marine Serre shows a more subtle way to allude to contemporary issues.

A Givenchy collection 25 years in the making.

The last day of New York Fashion Week ended with two heavy hitters.

The Calvin Klein designer thinks like a director in his most complete show for the brand so far. Plus: Vaquera and Monse.

The former child stars more than proved themselves as designers. Plus: Searching for hotness at Lam and de la Renta; good-bye to Carolina Herrera.

Highly enjoyable shows by Brandon Maxwell and Gypsy Sport offered a split screen between slick polish and outsider roughness.

Elsewhere, Chris Leba at R13 and and Kerby Jean-Raymond at Pyer Moss tackled more political realities.

Strong, albeit not innovative, shows at Bottega Veneta, Tory Burch, and the Brock Collection worked American fashion’s eternal themes.

Waffles, flowers, and references to drugs made for a decadent and thrilling show.

Maybe the most powerful thing right now is a perfectly shaped shoulder line.

Nicolas Ghesquière’s blend of modern and classical at Louis Vuitton was the defining moment of the season. Plus: Chanel, Miu Miu, and Thom Browne.