How Technology Will Transform TailoringDemna Gvasalia’s 3-D-printing innovation shows the way at Balenciaga. Plus: Gorgeous old-fashioned tailoring at Thom Browne and Givenchy.
paris fashion week fall 2018
Camp vs. ClassicismRei Kawakubo’s notes on Sontag; Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski finally finds classical balance at Hermès; Altuzarra’s ease.
How to Make Political FashionMaria Grazia Chiuri’s clumsy feminism at Dior finds its moment, while Marine Serre shows a more subtle way to allude to contemporary issues.
Raf Simons Goes to the MoviesThe Calvin Klein designer thinks like a director in his most complete show for the brand so far. Plus: Vaquera and Monse.
nyfw fall 2018
The Quirky Puritanism of the Olsen TwinsThe former child stars more than proved themselves as designers. Plus: Searching for hotness at Lam and de la Renta; good-bye to Carolina Herrera.
nyfw fall 2018
Uptown Flash, Downtown FunkHighly enjoyable shows by Brandon Maxwell and Gypsy Sport offered a split screen between slick polish and outsider roughness.
How to Dress in 2018Nicolas Ghesquière’s blend of modern and classical at Louis Vuitton was the defining moment of the season. Plus: Chanel, Miu Miu, and Thom Browne.
reviewed: alexander mcqueen and stella mccartney
Fashion’s Human TouchWarm collections by McQueen and McCartney, along with some stellar exhibits, remind us that it’s not just technology that draws people to fashion.
reviewed: givenchy and balenciaga
Excavating Givenchy’s EssenceClare Waight Keller returns the brand to tailoring, promisingly. Plus: Gvasalia goes his own way at Balenciaga, and Philo gets personal at Céline.
reviewed: junya watanabe and comme des garcons
Two Punks Soften the SpikesJunya Watanabe explores wearable femininity; Rei Kawakubo pulls back from the avant-garde. Plus: Altuzzara in Paris still feels like New York.
reviewed: loewe and undercover
Art and Fashion Do MixUndercover incorporates Cindy Sherman’s aesthetic with more depth than fashion usually manages. Plus: Loewe’s grounded luxury.
The Memory of FashionRick Owens evokes it brilliantly, while Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing stays on the surface. Plus: Loving Chloé’s new direction.
reviewed: dior and dries van noten
Fashion’s Millennial ProblemDior wants to reach them, but doesn’t know how. Plus: Lanvin’s decline, and deft touches at Margiela and Dries.
reviewed: marc jacobs and by. bonnie young
Marc Jacobs’s New Trend Is ElegiacDenying retirement rumors, New York Fashion Week’s guiding light produced a moving homage to fashion relics.
Rihanna’s Biker Boys Stunt on Fashion WeekThe surfer/raver clothes at the singer’s Fenty x Puma show were pretty terrific, too. Plus: Victoria Beckham, Public School, and more.
